Brushed metal, wood panels, vu meters: i love it!

Very robust build quality on those old Yamaha's.  Thanks for taking the time to show the troubleshooting and failed components.  I wish all technicians were as thorough as you are; your customer will really enjoy the amplifier.

Excellent job & vid Trevor. Thanks for sharing with us your thoughts and tips on how you approach a repair. This is truly priceless and can save lot of time, especially for people like me who just from time to time repair something. You've made a big smile on my face with your comment about watching somebody's cleaning a pcb :). My almost 6 years old son does love watching me cleaning the board once soldering is complete and sometimes asks me if he can do it with me too ;) So, my guess is there is something special about this part of work. Greetings from Poland!

Thank you for taking the time to document this. I have one on the bench right now. It seems that there is a mistake on the schematic. C304 is marked 100uF 6.3V but on my untouched unit here there is a 10uF 16V installed in that position.

Hi Trevor. Thanks a lot. New subscriber!

Binging many of your older videos today. Thanks for all you do and share with us, Trevor. You are a master!

PS. So, anyone watching in who doesn't really have the first clue, but owns a classic piece of Hi-Fi, and needs the best care, this service is as good as it gets. Have no fear. Over 40 years in the Hi-Fi industry.

You are an excellent teacher!
Thank you

Thank you, Trevor👍 I don't know about the others here but I am on my third watch-through on this one...and I've done the same (if not more) on probably all the others in your catalog. Really appreciate the great content you create. 👍👍

For the international viewers, FUBAR means F*cked Up Beyond All Recognition. As a fellow Canadian it is my privilege to provide this translation. 2:00:08

You are much braver than me. Removing all of those switches, pots, relays, etc., is something I just wouldn’t do unless I knew there was a problem that required it.

Excellent!The best technician from Edmonton!

Great vid Trevor. I did one of these in May, not as through as you however. I have CA 1010, and my CT 1010 separates as my master system in use with a Yamaha  YP-800 turntable. Took me 12 years of hunting. I have it in use with 4 NS-690's.

I often find that manufacturers themselves alter component values. Sometimes as a modification. Other times I suspect the production line runs out of a value and an engineer says "put these in instead, it won't matter" just to keep the line going. That or a buyer finds they can get 100,000 of one value for less cost than the specified value and again an engineer says "fine, it won't matter".

Hi Trevor, love your videos. One suggestion.

You can get light bulbs like the ones you replaced from model train shops. They look identical and come in 12V, 16V and probably other options.

Really enjoyed that Trevor. I did have something planned for this morning, but when I saw you had posted, I just couldn't help myself. Thanks for sharing.

Hi Trevor, new subscriber. Excellent video, your attention to detail is second to none! I've worked on a friends Yamaha CA-810 in the recent past. I found the majority of the original Japanese capacitors to be within spec, but some were way off. At the start of the video you mentioned the screws and that it looked like someone use a "dull screwdriver", I would bet that they weren't using a JIS screwdriver!
99.9% of Japanese equipment like this will use metric fasteners with a JIS head. It looks like a Philips but a Philips screwdriver will not seat properly and will cause damage to the head. JIS screws can usually be identified with a small dot stamped on the head between the flutes. I did training at the JRC (Japan Radio Company) factory in the early 90s and was told most sternly that I MUST use a JIS screwdriver at all times.

That's a beauty!

Another great video!

Many thanks for uploading this