Video idea:  Since the engines etc. on these cars are bombproof, what's probably going to get them in the end is rust (especially in Scotland). How about a video about how to check and older car for rust (e.g. what's ok and what isn't), and how to protect them for as long as possible once bought?

Love your ethics and the ethos behind this channel. Don't stop.

It would be great if you mentioned the road tax. It's a killer for some of the older good reliable cars. Love the channel 👍

Very valuable advise, we can't afford the new cars, and they have a lot problems, and the new cars are also spying on us. -- Let's keep the old cars running, thanks Scottish Car Clan!

Timestamp - Reliable and easy-to-repair cars featured in the video:
0:53 Toyota Auris: Petrol models are recommended for their simplicity (no turbos, chain-driven). Introduced in 2007.
2:48 Toyota Aygo / Citroen C1 / Peugeot 107: These shared-platform vehicles are best with the 1.0L petrol engine. Avoid the 1.2L engine with the wet belt.
3:40 Honda Jazz: Seek models from 2012 onwards to ensure you get the reliable CVT gearbox rather than the earlier 'i-Shift' system.
6:07 Honda Civic: Look for models with the torque converter automatic gearbox; avoid the pre-2009 'i-Shift' models.
6:57 Honda Accord: Known for a highly reliable 2.0L petrol engine.
7:24 Honda CR-V: Highly rated for overall reliability; available in various petrol/diesel and manual/automatic configurations.
7:43 Toyota RAV4: The Mark III (around £4,000) and Mark V (2013 onwards, around £6,000) are both recommended for their reliability and choice of wheelbases.
8:34 Suzuki Vitara / Grand Vitara: A more 'agricultural' but highly capable and dependable SUV featuring a proper full-time four-wheel-drive system.

We need more estate/wagon type reliable cars video. 👍

This guy is great; very well informed, thoroughly professional, and very engaging. A natural. Thank you!

I have owned many cars over the years. The best cars I have owned have been from Honda. They feel new even after many years on the road. They feel far better put together than Toyota.

In terms of engines, I actually think Honda is ahead of Toyota. I myself have a 2014 1.8 Civic that feels almost like new. There have been a few small things, but I have been a little ahead and replaced the seals around the doors, the tailgate and the cabin fan which is a known weakness. Best to replace it before it breaks down completely.  I have also replaced the alternator.

Weaknesses on that generation Civic is the bearings in the shock absorber towers, they made noises on my car. I had them replaced.  The seat fabric/leather is a bit weak, so check the corner of the seat side support, as they wear pretty fast. Another good tip is to avoid the orchid white paint from Honda, it is very weak (I have it myself). Check the bottom of the front doors if you own such paint, you will definitely see that the paint is peeling off there. Check for stone chips that can rust. Buy a can of white marine paint and brush over the peeling area before it gets worse. It probably won't rust because the primer is strong enough, but it just doesn't look good. Honda's paint is unfortunately weaker than Toyota's.  Also check under the car for rust, it could be wise to have it sand blasted and undercoated if you want it to last.

Apart from this, I have performed A/C service and replaced brake discs and brake pads, valve adjustment, normal preventive maintenance in other words.

Just to say 'thanks' Grant and keep them coming in 2026.

If you just need a little car try Skoda Citigo (or VW Up / Seat Mii clones).  My wife and son both have 2015 examples and they've been extremely reliable.   £20 tax if pre early 2017, low insurance group, 50+ MPG. Conventional dry cambelt.
Buying tips- look out for rust on rear quarter panel below petrol filler flap as they don't have wheel arch liners so it's a crap trap (later cars had liners). You can also put your hand up behind the wheel arch and see what you can feel.   Early cars had some clutch issues but both our 2015 examples have been fine.  Rear drum brakes can go noisy / handbrake sticky due to surface corrosion if not used much in humid weather.

Suzuki Grand Vitara. Had a diesel and a petrol. Superb off road and in snow with diff locks and low range. They climbed hills in snow and ice easily, even in high range. BUT they drank fuel, the gearing was too low and breathing was bad, so in performance, they were both as flat a fart on acceleration. Rust killed the older one, the other was written off. A clown side swiped it when parked and broke the tranmission. Loved the agricultural aspect and the door latchings were the best I've ever experienced, very satisfying, almost silent, solid clunk. Absolutely loved getting out and shutting the door !!! 🤪

Grateful to hype this video.
You, Sir, are Legend, helping  people choose wisely.
Imagine all the expense and inconvenience you are preventing. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
PS:
I love my Subaru from the previous century.

Happy Hogmanay everyone😊

Agreed, the vitara flys under the radar a little and gets over looked. Very capable

I enjoy watching his videos, he makes car talk sound like poetry. Here in the U.S. I drive a '15 Rav 4 and yes it's been very reliable and a super smooth machine. Since it only has 80k miles I hope to keep it a long time.

Ford Fiesta Zetec 1.2 or 1.4. No silly wet belt. Cheap and easy to work on. My 1.4 has 129k miles and still runs strong. Great little run around car and 50mpg all day.

I bought a second hand Volvo over ten years ago. Used it for work and now take my dog out in it every day. Apart from changing the brake pads once I’ve never done anything to it. One of your recent posts encouraged me to change the oil as a treat for her. It will cost me as much to do this as it cost me for my entire previous Volvo (£300) but I think she deserves it. She’s a real trouper (touch wood hard!) Wish me luck 🤞

I completely agree about the Auris. I have an early 2007 Auris 1.4vvti that I bought 8.5 years ago. It has been completely reliable with just yearly servicing and replacement of normal normal wear and tear item.  I've done everything myself except for replacement clutch and corroded brake lines.  
It's only now showing its age with rust on rear beam axle and noisy alternator (probably bearings).
I don't really want to change  but with 220k km and 18.5years of  damp irish weather, it may be time.
I'm just noy sure about the later 2013+ Auris 1.3vvti or hybrid. You sit so much lower in the later Auris and current Corolla.

I love the channel and videos. It frustrates me how newer cars are less DIY friendly and more expensive for parts

I have a 2002 RAV4 Nv which I've spent a bit of cash on getting it roadworthy again. It needed a new gearbox but because this is the FWD model it was nigh on impossible to find even a reconditioned one. So I took it to Alpine Transmissions in Glasgow and they basically hand built a gearbox for me from a bunch of parts they had "lying in the back storage" and with the new clutch, this car drives like new.

A set of new alloys and tyres too. I've had to replace the crank position sensor and a lamda sensor, and the serpentine belt snapped so that was replaced as well.

Apart from the gearbox, these little cars are so simple to work on - the serpentine belt was pretty awkward though.

And sure, with the money I've spent on not only buying the rav4, and the money I've spent on the rest, I could've bought an equivalent in better condition.

That wasn't the point though. The point was on keeping one of the rarer FWD 3-door Gen.II RAV4's running on the road. Worth it. I'm certain it's going to become a classic in the future. If not, then it's still a car I love to bits.

Must say mate, your channel is amazing.

Your advice is genuinely really good