For online coaching inquiries:

https://form.jotform.com/250582774153460

HONESTLY ❗
The bit of archery equipment
I hate the most, is WHATEVER
is rattling on my neighbour's bow.

Enjoying the lighthearted banter.

Regarding wrist releases: Turkish and Eastern European WA shooters often used wrist releases.
I think this is rather a decreasing and increasing frequency every few years.
Lutz and Gillingham, for example, are currently shooting with them (and both are “punchers”)

Regarding stabilizers: I've never shot with them, but there were or are these flat stabilizers that should somehow provide less air resistance.
The problem with these, however, seems to be that they act more like wings and lift them in crosswinds.

What I personally don't like: I like to test out unusual release aids. But sometimes you get the feeling that the manufacturers have never held their own products in their hands or used them over a longer period of time.
In this context, I also hate the general use of the smallest screw size for any equipment (in combination with poor quality material).

I like the carbon clickers myself. But that said I am deaf ( corrected with cochlear implants) so that feeling from the carbon is more positive for me 😁😁

This is great to hear the rationale beyond it. Thanks for organising this interview.

Very interesting regarding the Angel Majestic Serving. From my own experience, I only use it for the center serving. At the string ends, the yarn makes such a racket on a recurve bow that you worry about your limbs. It's good to know I'm not the only one who's had this experince

I have been crafting bowstrings for over 40 years for both myself and my customers. Since I began using BCY Halo serving material, I have not experienced any issues with the string slipping or shifting. The key to this stability lies in how the serving tool is used and the tightness of the serving application.

As for wrist strap releases, they do have an advantage in that they use far fewer muscles for the brute force part of handing the draw weight of the bow. Handhelds require you to master a good "hook" and minimize all the millions of muscles involved in that. For shooters like me who just cannot learn to manage 800,000 little tiny muscles on the shot, they're a godsend. OTOH, The main drawback is learning how to manage the trigger if you shoot a surprise release. This takes a lot of training of the finger pressure when pulling through the shot. And releases that are good for this style of shot are really expensive (I use the Carter Like Mike).

I've never reached even a competitive level on compound, tho, so I can't address what problems they may or may not have at elite levels. All I know is I shoot the tightest groups and best scores on compound with a wrist release....

1.  Crescent risers which use a tiller bolt mounted cam to adjust limb alignment.  The acorn nut that holds the tiller bolt on has like 6 threads.  If you turn the tiller bolt the wrong way you can loosen the acorn nut and the bow explodes.

2.  Bows that use washers to adjust limb alignment.

3.  Finger tabs with a hook for the archer's pinky.

4.  Legend archery bags.  They are fine bags, but they just don't last and quickly fray at the bottom and along the seams.

5.  Genesis bows.  To much like compounds to use teaching recurve and no wall so you can't use them to teach compound.  Also, they are so slow no archer can develop a good follow through with them.

6.  The USA Archery Instructor/Coach iron on patches.  USA Archery came out with new patches, but they are shorter vertically than the old one's.  So, if you go up in certification you've got to peel off the old patch and iron on the new one.  This leaves a big glue stain visible on your shirt, so look like a bum or buy a new shirt.

7.  Highly pointed/sharp glue in points.  First, there is no reason for a glue in point to be THAT SHARP.  It's a hazard for JOAD archers and I'm sure it just gets you more penetration into the butts, which makes arrows harder to pull.  Secondly, the points are easily bent.  This means the point can form a hook that grabs the clicker.  If you turn the arrow so the hook faces the riser, or file the bur off, the arrow is now a slightly different length and goes through the clicker differently than otherwise.

8.  Titanium points.  I've been told that European archery butts are much harder than the ones we use in America.  But, unless your target butt is the front slope of a T-72 tank there is no reason to spend almost 200$ on 12 points.

While I agree with many of these opinions, and while I have no experience with a recurve string stop, I do have experience with it on a compound. I shoot both compound and recurve. I'm going to just spend a moment talking about it from my perspective. In archery, the more consistency you can bring the more forgiveness or "accuracy" you have. Compound bows are designed for the Archer to lock in certain parameters, for example draw length, draw weight, cam timing, cam lean,  arrow drop away timing, arrow release timing (string stop), even the release aid and dloop to minimally impart torque on the string and release it uniformly. All of these things contribute to forgiveness. Even the number of strands on the string, the brace height being always spot on. On recurve. Limbs can return at different rates, you restring the bow you have different brace height, your finger tab can impart various angles and pressures to the string to release it, and even the way the arrow is released is not like compound as there is no plunger on compound. If you can get for example a clean or consistent release and anchor with recurve just that alone will significantly improve groups and you might have so many other things wrong like your limbs might return at different timing, your balance of the bow might be off and so on. Part of the reason people use a clicker and a sight is to give them an edge in controlling the aiming and release of the shot or their expansion and so on, while a clicker is an indicator it can be used incorrectly, with bad form, at wrong setting, etc. I will say though potentially a clicker could bring consistency between shots just because the draw length is similar and you're not stacking more energy behind the arrow. There are things that you can't directly control during the shot for example limb return timing, and one of those things is when the arrow is released from the string, if it varies shot after shot based on how similar your release is to the previous shot, then your arrows will release at different moments like if you cant or twist your bow during the shot or drop your arm and so on. A string stop is made so that you can control when the arrow leaves the string, Potentially earlier or later in the shot, for example, before you drop your arm or twist the bow or torque your grip(the fps gain is negligible so we won't discuss this) . That being said, if you don't torque your grip and other things I've mentioned, the benefit of the string stop will be negligible or hard to even measure. On a compound bow, another function is it reduces vibration to the bow components such as cable slide rollers and as a result also makes the bow or the shot quieter since there is less rattling. It's almost like torque tuning your compound rest, it isn't necessary to make good shots, and torque tuning might not make you more accurate since you might not be consistent enough of a shot to even see the effects. Or how Easton explained "how to cut the x10 arrow properly" they mention that there are some top shooters who cut from the rear to stiffen their arrow, however for most shooters who will need forgiveness in their shot, you always cut from the front of the shaft. There will always be top level shooters who notice more about the effects on their shot and who do a little extra which would be counterproductive for most archers getting into the sport. But the more you can control on your bow such as weight distribution, grip angle, brace height, negative or positive tiller, plunger stiffness, center shot, etc. the more forgiveness you can have in your shot. If you're inconsistent to begin with, you won't notice the effects of many of those adjustments. At a top level archers notice every little damn thing, but I've also have had moments where we for example shot a particular model compound bow and removed the string stop, and the noise from cable guides bothered us but resulted in better forgiveness in the shot, continued to shoot without a string stop just because it increased forgiveness (at the cost of a loud rattle and more vibration). One "feature" of compound bows from various manufacturers is that they sell bow models that have long brace height, and they try to market or make synonymous " long brace height bows are more forgiving". Why is this? Well seldom people think about the string stop, but if your bow is longer brace height likely you also have a string stop that is at that brace height, which means that the arrow is let off the string significantly earlier during the shot to where the torque you impart on the bow doesn't have time to affect your shot. Finally, hypothetically speaking if a clicker doesn't guarantee to make you a better shot (since your draw anchor and expansion is consistent) and changing your brace height won't make you a better shot, and your grip angle won't make you a better shot, then why would a string stop? This is the age old problem of trying to fix something that doesn't need fixing, like motorcycles for many years have had no ABS and yet somehow every motorcyclist to this day has been able to stop their bike, because you needed to learn proper braking and once you were proficient, ABS just didn't do THAT much to change your daily experience.

Yes! I thought I was the only one on earth that disliked Halo! The problem with Halo isn't the strength - its problem is it's a simple braided material that won't stay round . It's just as bad as simple twisted pair serving at flattening out and ending up squashed like a Slinky or flat like paint on an old time barberpole on the string. This is what causes serving separation where your string is repeatedly worked around a sharp corner, like on your cams or under your D-loop knots. It has nothing to do with slippage or tightness of application.

Angel Majesty is what I use on my string builds - it's an HMPE/polyester blend impregnated with a resin. It never flattens and ends serving separation problems forever.

It is good for serving loops, where the material isn't worked on every shot, due to its strength tho. But never for anything that goes around a corner on a repeated basis....

I hate Cartel sights for our club bows, they ALWAYS fall apart and break

Fantastic fun video. Having said that, I use a carbon clicker, a fairly stiff long rod and halo serving. I also use a wrist strap release when showing beginners on a course a compound bow. On the latter item, we use recurves on our courses at my club, but we have a basic compound with a wrist strap release so students can have a few shots to understand how a compound works and this style is very easy for them to understand.

I had a carbon clicker for a short while, my coach at time noticed that it was lifting the arrow slightly as the point passed through it where it was so stiff, he videoed it for me to see it. I promptly went upstairs to the shop & bought a Beiter clicker and haven’t looked back

I switched from a carbon clicker back to a metal one a few months ago, at first I really liked the sound of it but then I found I was really focussing on listening for it whereas now I can just feel when it clicked. I'm also sure it was so strong that it was actually moving the arrow when it clicked and I had to move my sight once I changed to a metal one.

About Halo, I've never seen any issues across a lot of strings that I've built. I think it's down to serving tool tension to ensure the spacing is tight and even. I will say that it is difficult to get a strong nocking point that doesn't move on it because of how slick it can be  so my solution has actually been too use the cheapest serving i can find to tie those on so it binds better

About stabilisers stiffness- I shoot shrewd one and has dampening build inside plus slide on each rod additional damper, highly recommended this set with adjustable v bar, with every possible angle to try out.

I (compound shooter) don’t buy a stabilizer for damping. Any flexibility just allows for more movement.

A point about stealth shots that wasn't mentioned in your video. When I bought these I was impressed by the supposed technological 'advantage' of using them, however, after some time and a few string changes later, I noticed the damage that the rubber stop was doing to the string. As soon as I started to see that I stopped using them. Especially on the upper part of the string.