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Thank you for this!
Now I finally understood why changing my points on my ACE 570 that were acting weak, from 100gn to 120gn, stiffen them up and made them perfectly in tune, despite the theory saying that heavier points make arrows weaker. The 100gn points were almost an inch shorter inside the arrow (100gn - ML point vs 120gn - HL point) so with the heavier 120gn points but with a much longer metal rod inside they acted stiffer like a shorter arrow.
Love the Q&A style format! Keep up the great work both you and Coach Ashe!
As a barebow archer would love some specific content related to barebow!
Greetings from Bucharest, Jon

Hi. I assume that you construct your arrows (glue points and vanes, assemble pin and nocks, cut the arrow, etc). Some arrows became "more perfects" then others. How do you chose the set for competition (the " best ones") ?

I think on variable that is overlooked is shaft weight.  I shoot an olympic recurve bow that is 41lbs off the fingers.  Most tables say I should be shooting a 500 spine arrow at my length. However, I shoot Skylon Brixxon shafts, which are about 1/2 gpi heavier than most other shafts.  For these arrows, I'm shooting a 700 with 120 grain point.  1/2 gpi may not sound like a lot, but when you consider the arrow is accelerating at around 257 G's, it's got to add up.

If u ever stay in the North of Germany, it would be a plasuere to see you at my Club. We have a pretty solid base of Youngstars. Them will be happy for much more Advanced Coach, wich i am. Not a Licend Coach, but still teached them well.

The problem is when you use uukha omega limbs, the charts are way off to start with.

410's yes please 😁😁😁 I'll be more than happy to give those a good home 🤣

How different of tune if I change from 120gr point to 100gr point on the same arrow??

How much more stiff it will change? …

Hello, thank you for all this tips and videos.
Can you please do a video how do I choose-select the best competition arrows in case that I buy 2 or 3 dozen?

The comment that the point weight doesn't matter and that it's the shank length in the arrow that counts was interesting to me. I was using 120gr points because the x10s i have were simply a bit too stiff and and i ran out of tuning options. So i figured the 120gr points are actually making them stiffer, so i broke off the 20gr and glued back in the 100gr points. Results are that the 100gr points are obviously even stiffer than the 120gr were. At 30m the 100gr bare shafts go an additional 3 inches stiff than my 120gr bare shafts do. Maybe it's different for tungsten but for stainless there's a clear difference and it's the grains not the shank length that matters. 450 spine x10s at 42lbs otf, 29" draw. I appreciate the video though.

How long are those 410s you are talking about? I might be interested 🙂

I have a small question remaining: Do you have any experiences regarding  comparing spines from barreled and parallel shafts? For example if a 400 spine parralel shaft will tune similar to a 400 spine ACE/X10 of the same spec( point weight, length)?
Thanks in advance

Regarding the length of the arrow: there are 2 points on the arrow which do not move during flight and which form the oscillation nodes. The front one can be determined reasonably well by taking the arrow at the rear end between two fingers and letting it “dance” slightly on the edge of a table. When the edge of the table hits the center, the arrow vibrates. This decreases as you get closer to the tip.
I would now understand that it would be optimal if this point was at the height of the button. What is your opinion on this?

What was your arrow length?

New to recurve from compound. It seems to me in my researching, recurves have the ability to shoot a wider range of spine, especially weaker spines compared to compound. Because not only can you change the arrow dimensions to adjust spine, you can also change how far you draw and therefore how much draw weight you apply to the arrow. is that basically accurate?

What about compound?

Im having a complicated question, not sure if you are familiar with the topic. If one shoots barebow or traditional and uses the point of aim technique (gap shooting). One aims over the tip of the arrow. What happens to the gap, range and Zero point of the arrow if it is shorter or longer. I hope the question is understandable.

Related to this, what would be an acceptable tune for you regarding arrows? Do you need the bare shafts exactly on top of the fletched? Or is something within the red or even just on the target acceptable?
Thanks for all this great content, guys.