What Technique to Use and When?

ROAP Coaching

ROAP Coaching

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Wouldn’t climbing be so much easier if you knew what technique to use — and when to use it?
We see climbers struggle with this all the time. You arrive at a move, try it one way, adjust a foot, change your hips, pull a little harder, come back down and try something else. Eventually you might find the solution, but you’ve already spent time, energy and potentially your flash attempt.

The best climbers aren’t simply better at performing techniques. They’re incredibly good at recognizing the patterns that tell them which technique is likely to work before they even pull on.

In this video, Alex and I break down four of the major movement patterns we see again and again in climbing, and the clues you can start looking for on the wall.

DROP KNEE
Two established feet, typically relatively wide apart
An opportunity to rotate one foot and drop the knee
Directional handholds or sidepulls that reward opposition
A target that becomes easier by rotating one hip closer to the wall

ROCK-OVER
One high destination foot, with the other foot much lower or becoming irrelevant
Often the opposite hand is higher than the hand on the rock-over side
The key objective is moving the centre of mass across and over the high foot before standing

STEP-THROUGH + FLAG
One dominant foothold rather than two equally useful feet
A relatively high leading hand that gives you space to rotate underneath it
The opposite foot can cross through the body
The original supporting leg becomes the flag, counterbalancing the rotation and preventing a barn door

FRONT-ON
There's an argument that being front-on is just a climbing style, rather than being a specific technique. As being front on leads to rock overs. This is true, but one of the most climbing styles we see, hence being added to the list.
Two relatively balanced, usable feet
More neutral hand positions without a strong rotational demand
A central or relatively direct target
Centre of mass already sits comfortably between the feet, allowing you to push through the legs and pull without unnecessarily rotating

Of course, climbing movement goes far beyond these four patterns. There are dynos, coordination moves, pogos and countless variations. But these are positions you'll encounter constantly, whether you’re climbing V2 or V12.
The goal isn't just to add more techniques to your toolbox. It’s to get better at looking at a sequence and understanding why one technique makes more sense than another.

Hopefully this video changes the way you look at your next climb.
Thanks to ‪@climbingcollective464‬ for hosting us!
#climbing

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