I think it's important to always contextualise weight loss for climbing harder.

If you are 20KG overweight, then yes losing weight is an excellent way for you to climb harder, and to also be healthier.

If you are already lean like Tom, then most likely losing weight is not the path to take.

These strength training myths are wild, when you're a V2 climber like me every boulder is strength training 😅

I'm around 93-95 kg on average (24% body fat) but reasonably strong. I can tell for a fact that when I was 83kg but weaker in almost every metric (weighted pull-ups, overhead press etc) it was easier being 83kg overall. All I would say is that if someone is already around 10%-15% body fat, losing more fat probably wouldn't help much and may even come at the price of strength.

Love the way Tom approaches questions. Very methodical and insightful

The " if you sleep with climbing shoes " Tom says no. But has he tried? can he really say no if he has not tried it?
We need a video where Tom sleeps with climbing shoes for a week.
Rungne will sponsor it.

Resistance training on one foot, especially on the toes, helps a lot for slap and vertical wall climbing when there are only tiny holds for feet and fingers.
With strong legs you can push your body up more easily while standing on next to nothing.

The discussion around weight loss for better climbing is very nuanced, the easiest way to articulate it is this: (Much like Tom said) when you start climbing you lose weight and this provides short term benefits and the illusion of losing more weight being the gateway to climbing better, the reality is that in order to keep improving you should find your optimal weight in which you are eating a balanced and nutritional diet to maintain that weight with minor fluctuations. I've personally discovered that for me my perfect climbing weight is at 83kg (182lbs) and minor fluctuations are okay but if I get up to 85kg (187lbs) I really start to feel the effects and if I drop down to 82kg (180lbs) I feel strong in bursts but my lead climbing suffers because my body isn't nourished sufficiently. finding that balance and then maintaining and having the discipline to stay within the window is the key.

"strength training doesn't make you a better climber"

I understood your nuanced response, but I just feel like "better climber" without any additional qualifiers usually means "better overall" and physical strength check is definitely one component of a boulder's difficulty checks, alongside things like spatial intelligence, balance, coordination, endurance, and mental fortitude. Isn't it the reason why some calisthenics peoples can come in and top a V2-5 on their very first day bouldering in a gym? They look super clunky doing it (facing the wall head on, hips far from the wall, bent arms, campusing half the problem, slamming feet, knees, and elbows into the wall) but they claw their way to the top with pure brute strength. The same can be said about gymnastics people, except they often come with additional coordination and balance right out of the box. On the other end of the spectrum, you have people that clearly understand what their bodies need to do to top a boulder, but legitimately cannot summon the strength. Think people who used to climb, but for whatever reasons got older, weaker, heavier, etc.

Great vid, Tom!

The weight loss thing depends on what your starting weight was.

-⛔️Redbull✅Magdust gives you wings

This was super insightful, lotsa food for thought

Very insightful, thank you!

This was seriously crazy!

13:09 If you are injured you need anything BUT full rest. The way we heal is through good blood supply so movement to some extent and good nutrition and rest is key. " the rule of the artery is supreme" as Andrew Taylor Still would say

4:53 really helped with my pulley recovery, or just use a stress ball with a rubber band around your fingers and it accomplishes the same thing

Good points throughout imo.

I'll finally get to try out my Magdust later today, excited!

I suppose on the last one it depends on the nature of the weakness.  Like for me, 3 finger open position is a lot weaker than a half crimp.  I'm not going to train in a way that eliminates that difference, just to say "good all around".  I'll keep training both, and half crimp will probably stay stronger, but I can make the 3 finger more useful than it is now.

I learned a lot of skills climbing without the use of a limb while it healed, and I had a good time doing it.  I'm there to have fun and get stronger and learn new things and practice skills and interact with other climbers, and I can do all those things whether I'm on an 8 or an 11.

Crack is back
i love crack and chalk :3