Hi Bruce. A good way to get a drum back in round is to work from the inside diameter. First, remove the entire re-ring (just like you did), then measure what the inside diameter should be without the re-ring. Next, cut a disc from a piece of hard wood (at least an inch thick) the exact size of what the inside diameter should be. Then apply glue on both the inner shell and the outside edge of the disc. Insert the disc to the inner shell which will force the drum back into round, clamp everything from the outside and let it dry. After everything has dried, measure how thick you want the new re-ring to be, draw a guideline for the inner edge, drill a hole, and then run a jigsaw along the guideline all the way around (or you can use a router). Sand the new re-ring and boom, you're done. No, you're not using the original re-ring - and I'm sure purists might have an issue with that - but you'll have a useable drum that's back in round. Russ
You undertake some very difficult repairs, where others would just give up. Great work and great videos. Always a pleasure watching you save vintage drums!!!
I tell you what people always made fun of me for using a butterknife for everything, but damn if they are not a handy tool lol! You can do almost anything with it! So seeing you use one a lot makes me feel better lol
Wait no way, i just got my hands on a cloud-badge radioking snare that is mildly out of round as well. I was looking for solutions when i found this video. What a coincidence!
Thanks for the video Bruce! I'd love to see the contouring work with the wrap taken off so the drum can be used again. Would be interesting to see that process too. Thanks again.
Not sure if anyone mentioned this but, I wish you would have placed a standard 14" head and also an oversized 14" modern head designed for oversized/out of round shells (perhaps a Remo Classic Fit head) on the drum at the end of the video to see how they fit. Thanks for the very informative video - Great job.
Another option instead of squeezing the shell at the widest point to try getting it back into shape, you can sometimes put a piece of wood across the inside of the shell, forced in at the narrowest point, to push it outwards. Just leave it in place as you re-glue the rerings. You might just need to saw the piece in half to remove it after the glue has dried, if it won't come out past the rings! The big clamp on the outside can get in the way of the small clamps you are using to clamp the re-ring back on. A small cabinet scraper is good for removing the old glue, then a little curved bock of wood with some 120 grit sandpaper stuck to it with double sided tape. Another tip is you can use masking tape on the inside of the shell to catch most of the glue squeeze out, so there is less excess to clean off. Just make sure it's far enough down that you don't end up with masking tape glued in between the shell and re-ring!
I like to try and keep original whatever possible, I usually just thoroughly clean and get everything functional,but that means I have quite few " mad max " looking drums. I like the road worn look if that's the life it's had.. .. I fully understand not everyone is into that though. I'd be anxious to see how you go about contouring it to get a head on it, but whatever you decide, count me in. I've learned a lot from the channel...Thank you.
Hi Bruce. Wow that is my snare. '48-'49. I have the whole kit. My nickel... That drum was round when it left the factory. They were turned in a lathe. Then the rings were added. Oversize probably. The heads were too. I was lucky to have Aquarian modern vintage heads fit mine when I took the calf ones off. This was 2001. Seems to me yours was stored with uneven tension. I would get it round, wet sand and buff to remove some of the yellow and sell it. I guarentee somebody needs that large oval badge beauty. And it's ORIGINAL! Cheers.
I keep waiting for your wife to walk in and say that’s where my butter knife went. I wondered about soaking rerings, now I know. You could use a ceiling mounted camera rig. Great job again. Would a remo fiber skin fit? I thought they had more forgiveness in size. I would egg shape it stain it.
Help Bruce out and like his videos! It’s the least you can do.
Love your videos, Bruce. I like your idea of sanding to round over to reduce the OD. What about removing the bottom re ring first to get the whole drum closer to in round? That might be enough to push it over the edge. I assume if you reduce the edge OD, that you’d have to remove the wrap?
I think only a drum maker would have the right machinery to clamp thatshell back to perfect round. Not imposible but long time out of your life. You have to fashion moulds remove wrap soak it more and clamp it in some kind of .mould like how they champ the body of classical guitar sides in a mould. Lots of work but possible. Might sound better with the wrap off or different anyway. Good luck with what you decide to do. Anythingis possible. Cheers
I’d sand the top layer of the wrap, with progressive finer sand paper and the buff, that normally you can get rid of most of the yellowing. There’s another method that Ive tried un rubber and plastics but never in drums. You put a thin layer of 40 volumen hair developer, wrap it with film and put the shell in the sun. And try the remo classic fit, they are supposed to fit oversized drums
Hi Bruce, I enjoyed this video and have a few thoughts. Have you ever tried allthread? I have a Slingerland 3 ply, around 1957 that was out of round. Used the allthread through the lug holes with washers and nuts at multiple locations on the shell, sprayed the inside if the shell with water and kinda rubbed it in, not completely soaking it and let it dry for a few days. It popped the rerings a little and I glued it back with the allthread still in place. It got the drum in round enough to get regular heads on it. I can send some pictures if you're interested.