Herkunft, Anbau und Qualität von Wein: Johannes Zenglein unterwegs im Südwesten | Was kostet...? SWR

ARD Marktcheck

ARD Marktcheck

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From fine wines to discount store brands: The price range for wine is enormous. Is cheaper always worse? How much work goes into a bottle? And how can I recognize a good wine? Johannes Zenglein explored the Southwest.

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With an average of 20 liters of wine per year, Germans are among the top ten wine drinkers worldwide. The Ahr Valley is the largest contiguous wine-growing region for red wine. Rheinhessen is number one in terms of area, followed by the Palatinate, Baden, Württemberg, and Moselle.


More about our eco-checkers can be found on Instagram: Instagram: oekochecker

Comments are welcome – but please observe our netiquette guidelines: http://www.swr.de/netiquette

With an average of 20 liters of wine per year, Germans are among the top ten wine drinkers worldwide. The Ahr Valley is the largest contiguous wine-growing region for red wine. Rheinhessen is number one in terms of area, followed by the Palatinate, Baden, Württemberg, and Moselle.






































. ... How much work goes into winemaking?

The Linden family winemakers at the Sonnenberg winery in the Ahr Valley in Rhineland-Palatinate harvest their grapes by hand. Machines are only used for mulching to create humus. The winemakers rely on the natural balance to control pests and beneficial insects. However, they cannot do without fungicides to combat fungal diseases. This costs nearly €30,000 per year on approximately 6.5 hectares of vineyards.

The family estimates about 1,000 working hours per hectare per year – for roughly 35 different tasks. Machinery, equipment, and technology cost around one million euros. At an average price of €10 per bottle, the winery is left with just under €1 per bottle. The small family business needs €1,000 in revenue per day to cover costs and make a living. Because wine alone doesn't generate enough income, they also earn additional revenue from vacation apartments, wine events, and campervan pitches.

Why is wine from discount stores so cheap?

Nearly 80 percent of all wines in Germany were purchased in supermarkets in 2019. The average price per liter there was €3.12. Discount stores like Aldi offer wines from large wineries, individual winemakers, or winemaking projects. At 93 cents per liter, this is only possible through volume. On large plots of land, grapes are harvested mechanically and processed in large tanks, which reduces costs.

How can I recognize good wine? SWR wine expert Werner Eckert explains what's important: What variety do I want to drink? What flavor profile? Should it be from a well-known winemaker? The EU mandates what must be on the label: growing region, AP number (the official testing number), producer, volume, and alcohol content. "Estate bottled" means the grapes and wine come from the named winemaker. If it says "bottler," the grapes were purchased by the winemaker or winery.

How good are inexpensive wines?

The most popular white wines in Germany are Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, and Pinot Gris. Among reds, Pinot Noir (Spätburgunder) is the most popular, followed by Dornfelder and Portugieser. Two discount red wines are being compared against an expensive Pinot Noir at a wine shop in Bad Kreuznach. According to the wine experts, the Pinot Noir from the wine shop has a more complex aroma. They can taste why it's more expensive.

How winegrowers' cooperatives work
Even large wineries are obligated to deliver reliable quality, even in large quantities. They rely heavily on automation. A visit to the Württemberg Winegrowers' Central Cooperative (WZG) in Möglingen near Ludwigsburg. Dozens of smaller local cooperatives supply the cooperative. In 2019, almost 34 million bottles of wine were produced. Almost all of it ends up in supermarkets. Competition is fierce.

The winegrowers' cooperative handles winemaking, vine care, marketing, and distribution. The winegrowers pay a fee for this service. For individual winegrowers, this would represent too great a cost and workload. For example, after deducting costs, less than one euro remains from a wine costing four euros. This money goes to the local cooperatives.

Organic viticulture according to Demeter principles
Organic viticulture is becoming increasingly important to customers. The cultivated area has more than tripled in ten years – now accounting for almost a tenth of German wine production. The Jacobus family of organic winegrowers near Bad Kreuznach cultivates their 15 hectares according to strict Demeter standards. For them, the vineyard is a living, self-contained organism. The soil is cultivated mul...