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No Overlocker/Serger? ┈➤ 7 Seam Finishes You Can Use That Don't Need One!

Evelyn Wood

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Still finishing your seams with a zigzag stitch—and calling it a day?
There’s a whole world of seam finishes out there that don’t require an overlocker, serger or fancy tools. And once you try them, you might never go back…

In this video, I show you seven seam finishes you can do on a regular machine (or with just a pair of scissors!). These options are great if you don’t have a serger, want a neater finish, or you're ready to try something new.

📌Which one are you going to try next? Leave a comment—and I just might make a follow-up tutorial on your favourite.

You can jump to your favorite and rewatch it ⤵
01:20 What IS a Seam Finish?
02:52 Overcast Stitch
04:02 Pinking Shears
06:09 French Seam
08:45 Machine Felled Seam
09:21 Hand Felled Seam
10:06 Bound Seam or Hong Kong Binding
12:12 Turn & Stitch Seam

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20 Comments

@Evelyn__Wood Creator 1 year ago Pinned

👋 Lately, as I’ve been sewing, I’ve been enjoying using a variety of seam finishes and reminding myself just how much choosing the right one can elevate your projects. Adding these special touches helps your garments look just as gorgeous on the inside as the outside,
Have you tried any of these finishes before? Or is there one that caught your eye that you'd like to try? Comment below with your favorite—I might make a follow-up video on the one that gets the most interest!

@MJG-d6s 1 year ago

French seams are my favourite, especially for children's clothes, since children have very sensitive skin. I once got a lovely compliment from my mother and sister; I'd sent my daughter's baby clothes after my niece was born. As they were looking at the clothes, my sister turned some of them inside out to show their construction to my mother, and one of them said you could always tell when I'd sewn somethng because the finishing details were always impeccable. I walked a lot taller for a while after hearing that!

@MJG-d6s 1 year ago

I'm so glad you're back. We missed you when you were ill. All the best to you as you continue in good health.

@geraldineheath3989 1 year ago

Thank you. During the sewing construction class at TAFE for my certificate 2, I did some of these seams as samples. What you have presented is the next level of understanding, in what fabrics each seam finishes are ideal for use. Thank you again, as this video married in what I have learnt as a technical aspect into real time application. Then again, it was your background that inspired me to head off to TAFE Qld. I cannot express my profound appreciation for you and your knowledge.

@michaelduke4500 1 year ago

Finally, someone who can actually explain the different finishing stitches for a newbie like me. Thank you, Evelyn!

@traciblynne 1 year ago

I jumped into using French Seams early in my sewing experience. I find the technique to be very therapeutic and the end result is so satisfying. Knowing that the inside of my garment is super neat and tidy makes me feel extremely satisfied.

@Thekidfromcalifornia2.0 1 year ago

I really need this right now. Half way through a project and I don’t lie serger or zigzag finishes

@berrypuuro 1 year ago

I have an antique machine from the early 1900's so I am used to not having a zigzag stitch or an overlocker to finish my garments. French seams and flat felled seams are my usual go-to's, because I like to have a neat finish on the inside so the garment feels smooth when worn. Luckily I have all the original presser foots that came with the machine, including 2 different sized ones for flat felling. They are a huge timesaver and make it such a breeze! Just need to slip the fabric edge into the foot the right way and start treadling, no ironing beforehand required. If the seam is at a place where I don't want it to show much and I can't use a french seam, I will usually opt for hand felling. I have also recently bought a pair of pinking shears from a second hand store, but haven't had a good project to use them on yet.

@karenbutler198 1 year ago

I like to hand whip stitch seam allowances separately, French seams, and pink seam allowances too. False French seams, where I turn the edges in and either machine sew together or whip stitch by hand are another technique I use. I am in the process of making a dress where I discovered I was short of fabric and used false tuck seams with contrasting fabric to extend the length; I used quarter inch seam allowances for all but the piece of fabric below the tuck, which I allowed a deeper seam allowance so I could turn the edge over and top stitch it down covering all the raw edges.
When learning a new seaming and finishing method, I like to produce a reference piece by sewing a sample version. Working a long enough length, I cut off a few inches after each step, so there is a visual representation of each stage. Stapled to a piece of paper with instructions, and any reminders or tips, I store them in plastic pockets in a folder. I can update the instructions if I feel the need. I do have books to refer to, but my own notes can be adapted and I can include details of sewing machine feet and settings if relevant.

@kimshafer123 1 year ago

Thank you for this! I’d love to see a video on the bound seam. This is something I’d like to try.

@luciatat4084 1 year ago (edited)

What convinced me to buy an overlocker was a linen-viscose fabric. It was fraying so much and it seemed like nothing worked well as a seam finish for that fabric, or at least nothing that I knew of. I bought the cheapest overlock machine that I could find and since then, making clothes has been so much faster and easier. Now I’m looking to upgrade to a better and more expensive machine. :) my opinion is that alternative seam finishes work for a while, especially when you are a beginner but if you keep making clothes, there comes a time when you feel like you need an overlocker.

@illyanka8777 11 months ago

French seams is my go-to for all my curved seams - princess seams, sleeve seams. I then zig-zag next to the stitch, trim close, do not grade, no future frayed mess rats-nest inside the seam that eventually happens. I work with a lot of crepe-back satins, chiffons, etc

@marathorne6821 1 year ago

I struggled to think of 7 alternative seam finishes but I'd forgotten about the pinked and hand felled ones. I use almost all of these in different situations, without consciously thinking of their names! So useful, thank you, Evelyn. I hope you're well, you look fabulous 👌

@barbarasullivan6752 1 year ago

I'd love to see a seam finish for a sleeve on a linen type.

@catherinerw1 1 year ago

My mum taught me both "real" French seams and "fake" French seams (where you sew a standard seam, then turn the fabric edges in together and topstitch, gives roughly the same effect). Lets you fit, and works on armholes (but is at least as much work!).

I think my most used is the felled seam (am making several shirts at the moment); often use the men's shirt assembly method of putting in the sleeve head straight, then sewing the side seams and sleeves in a single run. I also use felled seams on jersey; usually do the armhole seam felling by hand (easier to manage the curves). Would mainly use a bound seam in an unlined coat (to make it a feature with a pretty bias tape).

@robintheparttimesewer6798 1 year ago

Way back in the late 80’s I was making clothes for my new baby. The pattern said sew the seam grade the seam then overcast Or serger the seam. I would rant about it so hubby bought me one. It’s still going today

@eonarts 1 year ago

I love a finished seam and if it’s sheer I’m gonna French seam it! Of course I’d done a French seam while I was in 4-H sewing but that was 40+ years ago so I found some YouTube videos on it (I believe one of my favs was yours on how to French seam). I was sewing for drag costumes and one of my friends told me to stop wasting time on my drag. I knew I’d wear my SILK chiffon pale blue tartan with yellow 50’s style blouse outside of drag (I do!). Now I’m designing a jacket pattern for denim or twill so I will need to master the flat felled machine finish!

@deanporter3509 1 year ago

I'm so glad to have found this channel! The fact that you teach this stuff in a practical setting is exactly what I was missing from my YT sewing education; it's one thing to just watch someone make a garment, but it's so much more helpful when they've helped OTHER people do it a million times too, and know all the common mistakes and frustrations that come with being a new sewist. Thank you for doing this!

@sharonlanglois6326 1 year ago

I love a bound seam finish. Whenever I use a lightweight silk for a garment, I always hold back 1/2 a yard to make bias tape to use on other projects.

@lucyj8204 1 year ago

A very important factor for me for seam finished is how they feel against the skin. I really don't like serging (I wear my underwear inside out to avoid the feel!) so I don't and won't own a serger. I typically pink out my pattern pieces and then French as many seams as possible. I also do a lot of hand felling.