OpenTube

Can the 'MAGNUS MIDTBØ 9c TEST' Reveal Your Biggest Weakness? @Ross-Fulkerson @AnnaHazelnutt

Hooper's Beta

220,290 views

☝️ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryb...

ROSS'S CHANNEL: ‪@Ross-Fulkerson‬
ANNA'S CHANNEL: ‪@AnnaHazelnutt‬

Test Scores: 40=9c, 39=9b+, 38=9b, 37=9b, 36=9a+, 35=9a+, 34=9a, 33=9a, 32=8c+, 31=8c+, 30=8c, 29=8c, 28=8b+, 27=8b+, 26=8b, 25=8b, 24=8a+, 23=8a+, 22=8a, 21=8a, 20=7c+, 19=7c+, 18=7c, 17=7c, 16=7b+, 15=7b+, 14=7b, 13=7b, 12=7a+, 11=7a+, 10=7a, 9=7a, 8=6c+, 7=6c+, 6=6c, 5=6c, 4=6b, 3=6b, 2=6a, 1=6a

⚡ EXCLUSIVE GEAR DISCOUNTS & RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store

📧 For business inquiries: info@hoopersbeta.com

IN-PERSON AND ONLINE SERVICES:
👨‍⚕️ Injury Evaluation and PT Appointments with Dr. Jason Hooper, PT, DPT, OCS, SCS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/private-s...
🧗 Climbing Coaching with Dan Beall: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/coaching

🔗 Links to website, show notes, etc: https://linktr.ee/hoopersbeta
👕 Official T-shirts: https://teespring.com/stores/hoopersbeta
😍 Instagram: @hoopersbetaofficial

SPECIAL OFFERS FROM OUR AFFILIATES:
➡️ Gear:
$10 off Tindeq Progressor with code "hoopersbeta": https://shorturl.at/mnxU5
10% off Frictitious hangboards and port-a-boards with code “hoopersbeta”: https://frictitiousclimbing.com/?ref=...
10% off Rhino Skin Solutions with code "Hooper10"
20% off KAYA PRO (climbing guidebooks, offline mode, gps, beta videos, etc.): https://app.kayaclimb.com/share/affil...
REI (buy anything to support the channel): https://bit.ly/43eW9Tk
➡️Performance:
2 free weeks of MacroFactor (best macro tracking app) with code "hoopersbeta": https://macrofactorapp.com/
➡️Gyms:
The Wall Climbing Gym: Get a Day Pass and Gear for $15 when you mention Hooper's Beta at the front desk: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/
Mesa Rim North City: Mention "Hooper's Beta" at the front desk for a one-week pass with free gear rental!

WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with our affiliate links!

// TIMESTAMPS //
00:00 Context
00:51 Warm-Up and Ross's Advice
01:43 Test 1 - Ultimate Finger Strength Test?
06:51 Test 2 - Ultimate Pullup Test?
10:53 Test 3 - Ultimate Core Strength Test?
13:44 Test 4 - Ultimate Endurance Test?
18:21 Results - Is the Test Accurate?
19:15 Key Takeaways and Conclusions

// SHOW NOTES //
Episode 120
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/c...

// DISCLAIMER //
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.

// SPECIAL THANKS //
The Wall Climbing Gym. Check them out at: https://www.thewallclimbinggym.com/

// PRODUCERS //
Written and Produced by Jason Hooper and Emile Modesitt

#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

20 Comments

@HoopersBeta Creator 3 years ago (edited) Pinned

☝ FREE FINGER INJURY SELF-ASSESSMENT: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/finger-tool
🩹 $19/MO SCIENCE-BACKED INJURY RECOVERY PROGRAMS: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
What do you think your biggest limiting factor is? How do you know?
--> According to this test, mine is endurance lol. But if you watch the vid you'll know why that's probably not accurate.
----> Be sure to check out Ross's and Anna's channels for ultimate climbing stoke! (Links in description.)
-------> The original test was designed to give you a french route climbing grade (6a, 7b, 8a+, etc.). We converted these to V-grades since many of us are boulderers, but the conversion will never be perfect nor was the test designed to give you a bouldering score.

Special thanks to Martin Mobråten & Stian Christophersen for creating this "9c Test" so we can all participate, discuss, and learn from it! Check out their book "The Climbing Bible" if you want to learn more from them (both very strong climbers and coaches).

The original 9c Test on Magnus's channel: https://youtu.be/UOBB4wkTdxQ

@AnnaHazelnutt 3 years ago

Thanks for having me!!! Always so fun collabing with y'all! The quality of these edits + how your videos are always packed with applicable training information chefs kiss just fabulous

@boulderup9c 3 years ago

The pullup does need to be a legitimate pullup. In the 9c video with Magnus and Stian and Martin, they mention "no kipping," but that does not mean "anything else goes." It has to be a good form pullup, and that is well-defined outside of the test. Also, I think there's a huge bouldering benefit for increasing hang endurance, especially for beginners like me, because with longer routes sometimes that is the only limiting factor. I've improved my hang endurance and it correlates closely with success on longer routes. Great video! Very informative!

@RyuuBaka 3 years ago

I think the test is surprisingly accurate. The deviation on the lower end of the chart is due to the difference between current physical potential vs personal experience and skill.

@timmyo92 3 years ago

Damn Ross is a freaking beast with his 10 minutes that's insane! Good on you bro

@MiguelClimbs 3 years ago

Too much good info in this episode. Shoutout to the pros and Aleena in this episode too. Jason, you need to climb harder 😂

@yogaforclimberswithievaluna 3 years ago

17:02 'how long you can force yourself to keep trying hard when it feels miserable' 🙌🏾💪🏽

@Ogameshed 3 years ago

You guys should do the lattice tests that you mentioned, curious about the results!

@slapthesloper 3 years ago

Super cool having Ross and Anna on here hope you guys made more videos together

@ChaoticRain1 3 years ago

Aleena is really strong for a non-climber! what other sports does she do cause shes obviously athletic!

@stroob3734 3 years ago

10 mins hang is insane how the hell

@fabiopalma4429 3 years ago

I'm in the process of devouring your entire videos! You guys are the best

@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 3 years ago

I have been sing similar testing for decades (currently5.13+ age 66). 90+% of by use of the bar for testing (and especially training) is using a three-finger drag open grip, which I find translates MUCH better to climbing finger strength-endurance. For core I use some unique dynamic exercises which I would have to use video to describe, but are very quantifiable and transferable especially to the steep overhangs of my projects.
The upside of using a systematic approach is that I have climbed 5.13 for over 30 years with zero injuries.

@iancowley7799 3 years ago

Three of my favorite climbing youtubers! The collab I didn't know I needed, didn't see coming but now definitely want more of ;) Thanks for all of the delicious climbing related info you put out in the world

@Aaron-th7xx 3 years ago

Also, given how simple the test is, I'm quite impressed with how accurate it was for all four of you.

@marc5279 3 years ago (edited)

i dont think the one pull-up test pretends to evaluate what would be an applicable climbing skill, but rather is a good exercise to reveal the potential to make other individual moves thanks to your strength. Keeping in mind someone who hasn't trained especifically for one rep pull-ups, the score they get through this test will generally correlate with how strong they are in other parts of their body aswell. So this test allows to predict how hard they might be capable to squeeze, lock off, pull/hold their weigth through different positions, and such... or at least what's to expect more or less about them. The fact that is about one rep, and not more, i think makes sense because (when climbing and at least in the movement department, not grip positions) one rarely does 2 or more consecutive moves that are almost alike. So, leaving all the other capabilities aside, out of a climber that can casually pull-up 200% bw, you'll expect a lot more potential to do hard physicall moves that involve whatever parts of the body, generally, than out of a climber who can only pull 125%, even if the climb they will compete on has no move that resembles a pullup.
It's not about how usefull the pull-up is, but about what the pull-up indicates about your general strength, if that makes sense. So if you don't do well in this test, you don't need to train one rep pull-ups, but rather train general strength in all types of movements, because that's what this test indicates is holding you back.
That's my take :)

@TheEndorphene 3 years ago

Would love to see you do a lattice test or comment on the test itself, theirs is much more comprehensive and science based.
I believe Anna has done one?

@noone-ld7pt 3 years ago

Amazing breakdown of this test! I've found it useful to do it along with some mobility tests regularly to track progress, and it's really nice to hear you confirm my thoughts about it's limitation. Also, Train to get better at climbing, not to get better at tests is really good advice that I definetely needed to hear. I might have focused my training a bit to much on improving benchmarks when I probably should've focused more on actual climbing!
Thanks so much for making this!

@dglasti833 3 years ago

The flowing warm up looks interesting, is there more detail about it?

@toddgreen6862 3 years ago

I never understood why they didn't progress from the L-sit to front lever progressions (knees bent, one knee bent, straddle). As you mentioned, the jump from an L-sit for 20 secs to a full front lever for 5 seconds is *massive*. Granted it might be difficult to squeeze everything into 10 points, but I'd drop/combine some of the easier ones rather than the hard ones.