#exhaust #repair #diy
Welcome to another episode of The Eight Nine Garage. In this video, I show you step-by-step how to replace the collector flange gasket on your Toyota Yaris. With just a few tools, you can do this repair yourself and save money on labor costs.
The collector flange gasket is located between the exhaust header and the rest of the exhaust system. Over time, heat and vibrations can wear down this gasket, causing leaks and reducing the efficiency of the exhaust system.
Replacing the collector flange gasket in your 2007 Toyota Yaris is a relatively straightforward process, but it does require some automotive knowledge. It's important to use the correct gasket and ensure that it sits properly between the header and the exhaust pipe.
To replace the collector flange gasket, you'll need to first remove the old gasket and clean the flange surfaces. Then, place the new gasket onto the flange and bolt the header and exhaust pipe back together. Make sure to properly torque the bolts to avoid any leaks.
Mahle Original F31661 (THE CORRECT FLANGE GASKET):
https://amzn.to/47aZ6Hg
Exhaust Hanger Pliers:
https://amzn.to/47ryYrA
Replacement Exhaust Hangers:
https://amzn.to/47vKAtI
Exhaust Flange Bolt & Spring Kit:
https://amzn.to/43SoBOU
#exhaust #repair #diy
Welcome to another episode of The Eight Nine Garage. In this video, I show you step-by-step how to replace the collector flange gasket on your Toyota Yaris. With just a few tools, you can do this repair yourself and save money on labor costs.
The collector flange gasket is located between the exhaust header and the rest of the exhaust system. Over time, heat and vibrations can wear down this gasket, causing leaks and reducing the efficiency of the exhaust system.
Replacing the collector flange gasket in your 2007 Toyota Yaris is a relatively straightforward process, but it does require some automotive knowledge. It's important to use the correct gasket and ensure that it sits properly between the header and the exhaust pipe.
To replace the collector flange gasket, you'll need to first remove the old gasket and clean the flange surfaces. Then, place the new gasket onto the flange and bolt the header and exhaust pipe back together. Make sure to properly torque the bolts to avoid any leaks.
Mahle Original F31661 (THE CORRECT FLANGE GASKET):
https://amzn.to/47aZ6Hg
Exhaust Hanger Pliers:
https://amzn.to/47ryYrA
Replacement Exhaust Hangers:
https://amzn.to/47vKAtI
Exhaust Flange Bolt & Spring Kit:
https://amzn.to/43SoBOU
There’s very little clearance between the manifold flange and the inlet of the catalytic converter. You can move the mid-pipe sideways a bit, but separating it from the exhaust manifold outlet gives you maybe 8 inches. Even after releasing the mid-pipe from the exhaust hangers, you don’t get much more.
The repair manual says to use a piece of wood between the gasket and hammer to gently tap it in. This does work—but you’ll need a small, precision hammer. I recommend a ball peen style, something without the curved claw on the back, which just gets in the way. You won’t be able to get a full swing, so focus on short, deliberate taps evenly around the gasket.
Here’s the catch: the depth of the flange is longer than the gasket. So even when the top of the gasket is flush with the flange, there's still a gap between the bottom of the gasket and the manifold’s mating surface. You might be tempted to close the gap by just tightening the bolts and springs—do not do this. I can confirm from experience that this will not seat the gasket fully, and you’ll likely end up with an exhaust leak.
After my first leak, I tried again—this time cleaning everything better—and even made a special tool to press the gasket the rest of the way. I used a thin piece of wood, drilled a 2" hole using a Forstner bit, then cut the wood to fit into the tight area. I centered it over the gasket and carefully tapped it with a hefty socket. This allowed the manifold flange to pass through the hole, pressing the gasket in evenly. A smaller socket also helped with tapping in areas where even the hammer couldn’t reach.
Eventually, I got it seated fully. Even then, there may be a very slight visual gap at the bottom edge—probably due to the curvature of the gasket’s shape. That’s normal if everything is seated evenly.
A new OEM donut gasket comes with a coating or treatment that smokes when first installed. I was aware of this with new manifolds, but didn’t expect it from a flange gasket. The smoke scared me at first—I thought I still had a leak. But once the gasket burned off its coating, the smoke disappeared. So if you did everything right, a little smoke is normal and should go away. If it persists, then you probably have a leak.
A final note: when moving the mid pipe around, be very careful to not stretch or tweak the wires of the post cat oxygen sensor.
I know this is a long post, but I hope it helps someone else avoid the struggle I went through. I don’t regret the experience—it was a serious test of patience, precision, and problem-solving. Grateful for all the helpful videos out there that gave me the confidence to tackle it.