I’m another person whose used the West System pumps for many years with no issues. I’ve got two sets myself and others at work.. never an issue with them.
Nice work mate!

so glad I found your video!!! I'm happy with the outcome of my 36 year old mohawk

Thank you, Eric. I have a similar Wenonah and it was in similar condition, too. Followed your instructions and it is working.

I got a kyack that was made in 1993 by phoneix and I got to get figured out how to paint the bottom of the kyack. That's the reason I'm watching these videos...it's a 17 foot Kevlar kyack..

Looks great. I use the pumps but I always pump my resin and hardner into seperate measuring containers. Then when Im sure I have the correct ratios I pour my hardner into the resin then mix. I lost count on a once on a cedar strip kayak and the resin never set up. Ive never had a pump fail though. Ive never used west system either. Im getting ready to do some repairs on my cedar strip kayak after 18.5 years of hard use. Thanks for taking the time to make a video to help others. Again great job.

Absolutely awsome congratulations looks great I just got my first Kevlar 49 canoe needs bit of work so yiur video was a great help

Great job.
My research on boat repair said to use plastic straight edged razors. Never knew such things existed but they work awesome. For future projects. :)
Thanks for sharing.

Great job Eric

Good video - thanks.

Nice job on the Kevlar canoe repair.  Looks good.

6 months ago, I repaired a 16 year old Wenonah Solitude solo Kevlar canoe.  The previous owner had hit something that left a thumbnail size hole in the bow.  The hole had been patched with an epoxy patch that hid the damage.  After a couple of years, the epoxy patch cracked and broke away from the Kevlar allowing water to enter the bow buoyancy chamber.  After many phone calls, I discovered that no reputable canoe dealer would repair a Kevlar canoe that had been repaired with epoxy.  I called Wenonah to see if they would repair it.  The answer was "No."

The Wenonah repair technician advised to only use polyester resin to repair Kevlar.  I bought the repair kit from Wenonah.  They also advised to use fiberglass (not Kevlar) for the overlay patches.  I did as they recommended.  I used a shopvac to suck the resin from the outside of the bow and through the damaged Kevlar  until it reached the inside surface of the buoyancy chamber.  After letting that cure for a couple of days, I covered the outside with 2 layers of fiberglass and polyester resin (per Wenonah advice).

When the damaged Kevlar was exposed,  it was obvious that the cured epoxy had separated from the Kevlar.  When I did the repair with polyester resin, the resin soaked into the dry Kevlar fibers.  

The instructions I got from Wenonah go contrary to common practice that I found when searching the internet.

The repair is watertight and structurally sound, from the saltwater marshes on Galveston Island to the cypress tree bayous on Caddo Lake.

Thanks for taking the time to share. I have a Souris River canoe which I am doing the same to. I found It took forever to sand it with 80 grit paper and the orbital sander. Hardest was the areas in between rivets where the kevlar vibrated with the sander.
I elected to purchase the marked measuring cups just because I was too cheap to spend $18 on pumps.
Personally, I hope my bottom scratches come out better than yours. I noticed while cleaning the bottom with lacquer thinner (like acetone) that the lines indeed disappeared before it evaporated.
A few years ago, I put a coat of varnish on the hull and it looked great (no scratches showing afterwards).  But being varnish it didn't have the strength of the epoxy.  I hope this hides the scratches like the varnish did.
As for the ridge created by the painters tape, I couldn't stand for that. I would sand the ridge off and add a blending coat of epoxy. Maybe you have since done that.
Again thanks for sharing your experience. Greatly helpful was your "consistancy like corn syrup" comment to a first timer.

Nice work.  I found this video very helpful.  Thanks for posting!

I am curious of you have any updates on how well your re-epoxy job held up after some time and use.

Very cool. I think it's awesome that you're restoring that 23yr old boat and hopefully you'll get many more wonderful memories out with it. Good job Sir.

Pumps do screw back together. You need to check them in between uses. If you do know a ratio don't use it you could end up with a disaster. They rotate with use if you let them. Pumps are fast and let you mix any amount you want. Used pumps for years they are great only popped one once. Check them there's no problem with them.

Thank you for your reply Eric very helpful video

It seems like quickly following up the roller with a flexible epoxy spreader would help force the epoxy into the cracks, as well as reduce the amount of epoxy used.

I’ve used west system Epoxy for years with the pumps never an issue

When it comes to epoxy best practice is measuring pumps . Also if i were you, because epoxy waxes over as it cures try getting the whole thing done in 2 coats. First as a thin film of epoxy and once tacky a film of epoxy with micro beads. It will adhere  without having to wash and flat it again , and will smooth out the dents . Then varnish if you think its going to be exposed to sunlight .

Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Why did you epoxy practically the whole canoe?