I really love how you cater to visual learners and people who don't have much (if any) electrical training. I also love how you think that through-mount diodes are "really tiny." Surface Mount components almost made me give up on electronics repair.
If you want to make it a bit cheaper you don't really need a 3PDT foot switch. A simple SPST foot switch will do (could even use a bedside lamp switch to be uber-cheap. But don't stomp on it too hard though!)
Just wire the diode pair between the signal lugs of the jack sockets and a parallel path through the switch between the same. When the switch is off, the only path for the signal is through the diodes. When it's on, the diodes are shorted, and therefore totally bypassed.
The other thing you could do if you stick with the 3PDT switch is replace that little wire with a resistor or preset pot, That way you can volume match the clipped and un-clipped signal. Of course there will still be an insertion loss, but this can be compensated for with more gain downstream.
I installed three BAT41 diodesâtwo in series and one in reverse parallelâand added a 330-ohm resistor. At the input (receiving the signal directly from the switch), I connected a 47ÂľF capacitor, linking its other leg to the diode/resistor network, and connected the end of that network to the potentiometer's ground... all routed through an on/off switch, of course. It turned out well; the volume doesn't drop off too much.
A small 5 volt stereo amp board would be perfect for sending the clipped signal out of the left channel and taking it back in through the right channel input and adding a gain knob on the right channel to get the volume level you need plus also boosted too. still could fit that lot in a similar sized box too.
Thank you! I was looking for some examples of this sort of circuit before I build it myself (yes, it will go between two other pedals, exactly as you mentioned).
One of my favourite new channels. I've been building gor a while now, but I still enjoy what you bring to the table. One minor correction though, at 5.15, you add a small jumper wire to the footswitch. You state that it doesn't need to have plastic insulation, this is true, however, you are using metal bodied jacks, ground connection is made to the body of the enclosure, your wire touches the body, it would short all signal to ground, if it wasn't covered in plastic. Really sorry, because your content is excellent. Can you edit your voice out of that part?