I echo the previous comments. I have been trying to find a clear explanation of how to grind a fly cutter bit. I have watched quite a few videos but they all seem to make assumptions about how much the viewer already knows and speed through the process leaving me confused as to which is the cutting edge and where the angles should end up. This had no of those failings, the step by step process was clearly described and there is even a bonus at the end of how to grind some cutting tools (I will certainly be adopting the wooden model as a quick future memory aid). Thanks again
Excellent video with a great deal of information , same like others have said, there are many videos out there about fly cutter tooling but yours is the best concise one for all of us looking to get started making our own cutters.
There is nothing wrong with your video skills or lighting. I was worrying about the same things over and over and it has put me off from starting my youtube channel for a very long time.
Very clear demonstration of angle grinding for fly cutter and lathes. I like the wood jumbo size examples to keep your head straight when standing at the belt sander. Thank you 🫡
Thanks for the great video 👍😀. Specially i like how you show the angles to grind on hss tools. When I worked as a machinist in a hydraulic shop i followed a few classes at sandvick company. And even i had quite a few years experience , these classes are a eye opener. These people show you not only the theory behind it all but also when or why you should or shouldn't use carbide inserts or hss tooling. Because hss tooling has its advantages and place in a modern shop. The main reason why many people have bad results with carbide inserts is because carbide needs more cutting power to make it work. And a sandvick I learned when to switch from carbide inserts to hss. Carbide is not some kind of holy problem solver that transforms any machine into a high end cnc machine 😂. Learn to use hss tooling , even when you have modern high speed machines 😊. Also hss comes in different flavors, many of the modern hss square lengths you can buy these days are all of a certain hss steel and it is very difficult to find different types of hss. Like we have different types of carbide inserts in a modern machine shop , before the 1980's in a machine shop you would have quite a few options in hss steel that you could use. Depending on the materials you needed to cut. There would be hss for mild steel cutting and another type of hss for stainless steel for example. You can find a lot of information about different types hss in older machinists handbooks 😀.
I purchased a grizzly 3 way second hand the other day and am slowly working up to tooling and other things I had to repair. The lead screw bearings etc. Poor thing didn't see a drop of oil in its previous assignment I'm sure. The cross slide gibb was coming out of the pocket as it moved across the bed. The gears missing I had to purchase all knew. BUT it's finally usable and I made a couple of parts the other day realizing I wanted to surface on the mill I said dang I need a fly or face mill as all I had bought was end mills. Your video has now given me the confidence to purchase a high speed fly cutter set just as you said you did and will be able to use it to great effect if I can just get the dam vise to secure well enough so it doesn't climb when the tooling comes into the material. I'm enjoying the learning curve and this machine fits better in my little garage than the old bridgeport TII i had in my shop back home. Plus this one has the lathe feature which I'm looking forward to using soon enough.
Thank you for this very well presented, clear and concise video. Your grinding the tool bit using the wood and belt sander is a very good way to help illustrate exactly what and where the angles need to be. I've been grinding my own HSS tool bits longer than I care to remember. I'll be passing this video along to others that need the knowledge and a clear illustration. Thank you sir!
thank you very much indeed, sir! I was about to give up on this bit. I tried it, and it works just perfect. Only that I just ground the one half of the bit round. The "upper" half I left alone.
Nice job, 1 question though. If your cutter is cutting on the front side of travel, It would make sense to note that you are out of tram on the bed as it looked as though you were also cutting on the rear side of travel as well? Just an observation. Very nice finish though
you are not boring me at all just myself trying do the same thing and trying all king of grinding and i am imprest the way you did your bit (grinding) good job. Steve
Can pose a few questions. How did you calculate the optimum swing radius for the toolbit? What effect did you notice by grinding the cutting face of the toolbit offset to the centerline of the spindle instead of keeping it on center? Did you try tangential cutter engagement to reduce tip impact? I find button insert face mills give a much better finish, enhanced balance and more efficient metal removal. Have you tried them?