I really do not understand the story about left-handed and right-handed tools. A "normal" lathe tool that cuts from right to left is called a right-hand tool, if I am correct. On the lathe the pointy part is on the top and to the right. When I rotate this tool 180 degrees over the long axis, the pointy part is on the left and on the bottom. If I shift that tool in that position into the fly cutter form the bottom, the sharp point is on axis of the rotation and I thought this was exactly what you need. So any right-handed tool for the lathe can be used in a fly cutter in the right way, can it not?????

Thanks for the tutoring session, you're a good teacher and I've quite enjoyed your videos.  As always, thanks for sharing.

with wood id back up the smear edges with sacrificial material would that work in this situation?   just curious ill be keeping this in mind when i have to make a new fly cutter bit.

Your whiteboard explanations are very helpful in understanding the demonstration.  Flipping the angle of the grind is an excellent idea. Thanks.

Brilliant

Holy smokes I’ve always wondered why my fly cutter finishes were trash. Now I know why. I never even thought to look at where the center was at! I can’t wait to try it out

Tip of your tool rigged the wrong way 😂🎉 not a child I swear 😊

Joe, today I tried cutting steel with a "Joe Flycutter bit". It works indeed, looks odd as I've never seen this done before but it does work well! I thank you!

Joe, I've watched this a couple of times, I got now!

Thanks man

Nice tips!
So if I use lathe boring stick mounted at 120 degrees, with carbide insert, I should change the mill direction to reverse?

Thanks! This video will save me some grief!

Thank You, Sir.

Very good.  Years ago, when I still made my living making tiny pieces of metal from larger ones, myself and others would see how effective we could be using the fly cutter to make the surface of our part a diffraction grating.   The criteria was the surface needed to be flat and to dimension.   Could get some awesome colors when things went just right.

Hi Joe.
I think You are doing very nice videos and I am frequently whatching them.

I have a question to You regarding the geometri of the Fly-cutter tool. All of Your thre cutters that You showed in the video has a gemetri that is pushing the tool away from the centerline of the cutter by the locking screws. My suggestion is to drill and tap the holes from the other side of the cutter that would push the tool up against the centerline of the cutter. That wouild infact be an improvment of the cutter, when the cutting edge of the tool is closer to the centerline and it would also make the tool more rigid, in my opinion.
Fianlly You was taling about balance of the cutter. I made a cutter myself and I made only the slot for the tool and made three counterbores for the locking screws all to improve the balance of the cutter.

Regards to You from John Eriksson in Sweden

If the back side of the fllycutter is cutting, you may also have a loose gib. I get this on my Sherline.

Do you know what fly cutter  is I used to mill  the  face  of  stainless  steel  golf  putters.

Should have made a split pass ,, cut 3/4 one side, flipped it and made and over lapping 3/4 cut on the other side so that all sides are shear sides.. smearing is for lil kids and fingerprinting

QUE BUEN CONSEJO, FUNCIONA A LA PERFECCIÓN. GRACIAS.

On the matter of blowing the corners on plastic, how do we solve that if we use carbide insert tools? What insert geometry would be preferred? Thanks.