Hi, I watched your video and fixed my projector. I took it apart and made a friction drive out of a vacuum cap. I measured the OD of the plastic drive then went to the autoparts store and bought a pack of vacuum caps. Selecting the closests one, cut it to length at the closed end of the cap. I put it on the end of a 1/4" nut driver and slowly sanded the cap around the edges and even took of the closed end. It got small but I did have a remnant of the orginal to compare. Put it back together and the take up reel works forward. When in reverse the wheel is free at the other reel pulls back the film. Thanks for the video.

I have one with the same problem, all three conical rollers have rotted away. I managed to repair it by making new ones. It would have been a shame to have scrapped it, as they are great projectors. You need to be carfull when disasembling the clutch, and make notes on where everything goes, as it is very tricky to reasemble, and the reasembly has to be done in the right order

just got one today and it has the same problem

Thanks for the video. I have a 1462 model and I can hear the motor running. After watching this video I opened the back up and saw the deteriorated washer

Thank you for sharing your experience. Is hard to find old projectors videos here on youtube. Yours help me a lot!

I took a couple of those cone-shaped wheels intact off of my Bell and Howell MX33 projector. I'm thinking of having them rendered for a 3D printer so I can make replacements of them. There are so many of these projectors floating about that have the same problem.

I was able to fix this by creating a "grommet" from a rubber band. Basically I got a rubber band, cut it so that it fit perfectly around the tip of the shaft and glued it using contact cement. Taking it apart was not that hard but putting it all together was a little harder. Let me know if you have questions :)

You sir, have saved me a headache. I have this exact model MX43 with the exact same issue. I wasn't sure why the take up reel wouldn't spin. I'm glad you figured it out. I am going to try and get some rubber grommet material to replace the missing rubber nub. If I find a solution I'll let you know

This is the only video I have found for my model can you do a instructional how to operate plzzzz

I will do an instruction video for YouTube on how to repare these projectors this month, but be warned its not for the faint hearted. Catch up soon.

I had the same problem with a Lumina II Lx30. After watching this video I got some black Gorilla Duct tape , ripped a thin piece about 1/4 inch wide , I cut it about 6 inches long and fed it through as I slowly wound the shaft . I wrapped it around that rubber nipple 2 full turns . Well the projector goes both in forward and reverse with out any issues. It is not a permanent fix but it should work to watch a couple of home movies.

A more thorough video showing repair:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UFlKwTMXXEc

I think this explained my problem perfectly

I have 3D modeled the grommets and printed from a very good TPU (rubber like) filament - I tried to measure the broken pieces but ultimately I had to make the cone-shaped wheels seemingly (because I don't know original dimensions) small and narrow to even be able to put the e-clip back on the shaft.  The parts look great, but I'm not quite sure how this thing worked well in the first place.  It almost seems like the clutch wheels changed dimensions over the years or something.  I'll have to investigate this more - but wanted to let folks know I'll get these parts up for sale (just to recoup 3d filament cost) once I get the dimensions finalized.  If someone could point me to a good video on how to adjust this clutch that would be great - because I know exactly how the thing goes together but it all appears too tight (drive belt just slips...that's old as well so maybe I need to print/buy that too)..it might be the drive grommet assembly not retracting back into the drive shaft?  I'll keep investigating.

I own two Bell and Howell QX80's. Back in 2000, I called a company out in California and described the same problem you have. He told me that those parts are called Cone Clips and it was common for them to disintegrate. I asked how much one cost to replace. He said $200 each. 😱 I laughed because I thought he was joking... he wasn't. I tried to make my own out of epoxy putty but it didn't work.
I was just thinking the other day that those parts could easily be 3D printed. Looks like some of you have found a cheap way to fix it. Thanks!

If anyone replaced the drive belt let us know.   Looks like the whole thing has to be torn apart!

Hi, thanks for the video.  I’ve been working on the same problem and my take on it is pretty much the same except that l think the tires (?) were made of plastic and press fitted on black plastic hubs.  The spacer pulleys use the same tires pressed on similar hubs.  I have a lathe so turned tires from a 1/2 in. brass rod and epoxied them to the plastic hubs.  This should work except that when I took it all apart I didn’t draw a diagram and for the life of me I can’t get all the tinny springs, washer, c-clips, etc. back together again so it works properly🙁. May have to find another projector to tear apart and find out how it all goes together!   Ted

Could you show us how to use it? like how to put the film in and everything

Can you demonstrate how to load this? I inherited a qx80 and am worried I will break it by loading it improperly

Can someone show me how to change the belt on the mx43 please