Great video. Also looking at getting a kibler colonial, but in curly maple. You're actually supposed to avoid iron nitrate for cherry and walnut as these two woods have different tannin levels than maple which means it'll come out extra dark. The builds you saw were most likely maple as that was the historical wood for this gun and iron nitrate was used for that. Otherwise other things were used.

"Avoid using iron nitrate on cherry or walnut. Cherry turns black and walnut does not respond well. This stain is meant for maple almost exclusively". From kibler in his section on iron nitrate.

The front sight is meant to be filed.  They come “tall” and you walk your shots up by filing until you get it zeroed at your desired range.  You can also profile them to your liking as well.  
I did my Kibler Woodsrunner in maple and Iron Nitrate.  It worked great and really brought out the figure and I just had the lower standard grade.  I also used the iron nitrate on my Kibler Fowler in traditional walnut and it went black just like your cherry stock.  Honestly I love it as most historical stocks tend to be dark.  
Great build and great video.

Kibler is the best there is. Ive put together a .54 Colonial, .45 SMR, and currently working on a .54 Woodsrunner.

I regularly shoot 70 grains of FFG in my Kibler and that's proved to be the most accurate in mine so far, of course, mine is a .58 smoothbore. It does good with a .562" ball and a .010" patch or when I go after squirrels, same powder charge but with a 1 ounce load of #7 1/2 shot. It doesn't seem to have any problem with power when it gets downrange and I've knocked a couple of squirrels out of their trees at 40 yards or so.

Thanks for sharing. I think you did a great job with your rifle.

I've built the Kibler SMR in 40 cal with a cherry stock. I didn't stain at all. I only used TruOil on it. It's beautiful. The sunlight over time turns the cherry red. I also made the Woodsrunner in 45 with curly maple. I used iron nitrate. It's gorgeous.

I have all the Kibler kits. I think the lock is the best flintlock available anywhere, and that lock is really the heart of any flintlock rifle-if you have a mediocre lock, the rifle is not going to be a reliable shooter, no matter how well the rest of it is made.  except for the Fowler, all my kits were stocked in maple, and I always seemed to get a better grade of maple than what I had ordered.
 for stock finishing, I always used the aqua fortis, followed by the "tried and true" that Kibler recommends, and then numerous coats of Minwax finishing wax, buffed up with a shoe brush. I like a fairly glossy finish to the stock-not super shiny like polyurethane, but more of a soft shine like antique furniture.

Man, that's a great shooter!  It looks fantastic with the cherry wood stock, too.  You will get those sights dialed in to your likings in short order.  Well done!  👍👍

I was just wandering about buying one. Looks like a shooter for sure. That lock looks super fast, answered all my questions hahaha Semper Fi brother

Thanks for sharing.  I built the same rifle with the curly maple stock.  I used the iron nitrate, followed the nitrate with heat from a heat gun then applied a final finish of Permalyn Sealer.  I think I also used some linseed oil.  I used Historic Houseparts Brass Tarnishing Solution on the brass and found it also did a nice job on the steel.  The steel parts turned a nice dark gray like an antique Stanley plane.  Thanks for the video.  See you on the field with the 7th Virginia.

I don't know much about firearms, but I love these videos! I find the loading process particularly interesting

Jim kibler longrifles are awesome, i have one with the curly maple in 58cal. And a woodsrunner in 54cal another great rifle. He's making a brown bess 🤠

The goat. Great vid.

I was fortunate to have purchased my first flintlock muzzleloading longrifle in 1971 when flintlock lock choices were few and far between. That first semi-custom, brass-mounted, Lancaster County style flintlock longrifle was equipped with a hand assembled and tuned Bud Siler right-hand flintlock lock. A properly assembled and tuned right-hand Siler flintlock lock is a joy to shoot. Lock times can be incredibly fast, rivaling the speed of a good quality right-hand percussion sidelock lock.

I once owned three separate flintlock longrifles (a .45 caliber, a .50 caliber, and a .62 caliber), each of which was equipped with a right-hand Bud Siler flintlock that had been hand assembled from a Siler kit and tuned to a fare thee well status.

After my initial stumbles teaching myself how to shoot a flintlock longrifle way back in the summer of 1971 as a 17-year-old kid, I could count on the fingers of one hand the number of flintlock hangfires or misfires that I suffered from in the ensuing 20+ years of shooting a flintlock.

It all boils down to a fast, well-maintained, flintlock lock with a proper lock geometry; a set of proper loading procedures that are never to be deviated from; decent quality to high-quality fffg black powder; and a sharp, well-maintained flint installed in the lock's cock.

Bud Siler first introduced his Siler flintlock in 1960, but the demand for a well-designed flintlock lock with 100% accurate flintlock lock geometry quickly outstripped his ability to offer completely assembled locks for sale. As a result, most Siler locks, even in 1971, had to be assembled and tuned by the rifle's builder.

If you were going to build longrifles from scratch, then you had to learn how to assemble and tune a Siler lock. For the longest time, it was the preeminent flintlock lock available for purchase. Eventually, other people manufactured flintlock locks for sale as fully assembled locks.

The flintlock locks from Jim Chambers Flintlocks eventually emerged as the only serious rival to a Siler flintlock; and when Bud Siler became older and no longer capable of meeting the demands for his locks; he sold the Siler lock business to Jim Chambers.

The vast majority of the flintlock rifles and smoothbores that were built in the early 20th century through to the mid-1960s used antique locks that were being repurposed or that were New Old Stock military flintlock locks that companies like Numrich Arms imported from the vast stockpiles of early to late 19th century parts that had been moldering and rusting in wooden barrels for sometimes well over 100 years in the federal armories of the vast majority of the European nations.

There's no doubt that the CNC machined flintlock locks (and now, a percussion Hawken lock) that Jim Kibler has designed and brought to market are the best quality flintlock locks available in the year 2026. Chris Laubach's CNC machined early Germanic Jaeger right-hand flintlock lock is equal in overall quality to any of the Kibler locks, but his production has been spotty and erratic.

Jim Kibler's new kit that is due out later this year, a period correct Brown Bess military musket with a period correct bayonet, will undoubtedly set the gold standard for an American Revolutionary War era Brown Bess musket, including the hard to manufacture and get period correct lock.

It     was     a       very       good      video      and      very     informative.

I bought the same kit and stained the cherry wood with cherry stain and then used Kibler’s stock sealer and it turned out great.

Good video,  I too have a kibler colonial, I love it

Beautiful rifle

I like my Kibler Mountain rife in 45cal it shoots great.

Great video and I really like the color of the stock that darker stock is beautiful.