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unfortunately for some people the only reason that we don't get a resin printer is because of the toxic chemicals and not having a safe place to be able to use the printer fdm is allot safer so unfortunately, we have to sacrifice a little quality

Great Video :) really liek the look of the clear resin

For the additional resin on the crystal clear resin, pick up some silicone paint brushes. It will remove those brush strokes.

This is the reason why I kept my old Ender 3S1. It was the best of the Ender line IMO. What makes it great is that they still make 0.1 nozzles for it. Most modern fdm printers only go as small as 0.2. But the nonvolcano style goes all the ways down to. 0.1 i get great detail with ABS and acetone smoothing.

Should see the new printer design from Uniformation where it has a mechanical arm to move the print from resin vat to wash vat all in one machine.
I just don't have a space for a resin printer. Requries a lot of things to do it properly.

I get resin is superior for detail and crispness but in my household all  of the hazardous fumes and chemicals involved make it a non starter with my son around. Resin definitely wins on detail but its just too hazardous

This week I printed a digger bug from Puppetsware on FDM 0.4mm nozzle at 0.2mm layer hight - all parts took about 8hrs. On my FDM 0.2mm nozzle at 0.06mm layer hight the same print took 3 days....
But the 0.2mm nozzle with 0.06mm layer hight is super close to resin. Super crazy. And I built these printers myself.

Resin user here. I love the quality, it's detailed to the point where I don't even want to paint how intricately it's capable of producing details. I can only justify having a resin setup in the home bc my wife and I have an extra room. If a kid comes along or she decides she wants the guest room back, rip resin setup.

I just made a video using 6 year old resin I found :p I don’t do resin much but it’s still worth it for this use. Thanks for experimenting

I wish you adjusted the aperture settings on your camera to get the whole mini in focus. It's hard to compare when its only bits that are in focus.

Nozzles size is a thing but so is layer height, be resin or fdm. And resin also has different resolutions based on the printer..

It's nice to see direct comparison with samples. But I feel that using very different colors makes it hard to see the differences in the details and the surface of the miniatures.

Hey @3dPrinterMike

You are not limited to those layer heights that are set as defaults in the print profiles and nozzle.  You can go into the machine settings and adjust the lowest layer height down to whatever you’d like.  I’ve printed several models using .028 as the minimum layer height using a 0.4 nozzle and adaptive layer heights and it worked great!!  I believe you could go even lower, but I’d advise making the first layer at least .028mm if you do so to avoid the possibility of the nozzle rubbing on the build plate if it isn’t perfectly flat.

Oem thing to consider about resin printing is resin does have an upper temperature limit as well. If your printer is in a space that's regularly above 35C you need to cool it or not use it until the burnt temperatures come down.

That's not as regularly talked about because most of the Warhammer printers are in the UK where 30C is considered the surface of the sun, buty garage regularly stays at 35-40C+ all summer.

I did jury rig a portable AC unit fory printer tent, but even full blast, it's not sufficient for daytime heat, and, frankly, full PPE and respirator in even the evening heat, I'm going to be soaked all the way through by the time I'm done getting them into the cure machine.

So you need to me mindful of your local environment as well, not just have a space.

And if the overall temperatures are to high, resin prints will warp even worse than PLA.

I am hoping to get a lot more use out of my resin printer this winter.

Painting supports yourself is easy just scroll through the slice after it's generated and see if you see any unsupported islands develop that are just floating in the air and then pop some supports under it you will need 50-75% less supports than auto generated.

0.06mm isn't the minimum, you can go down to 0.01mm on bambu studio with the a1. But printing that height isn't straightforward. Good calibration is key, and only in certain areas where you have gentle slopes where the layer lines really show up

Good video
But I think use metallic color is not the best way to compare details, not only metal paint works as filler, but it also shiny and distort details
The best test would be dark basecoat with light zenital, not necessarily black vs white, but dark grey vs light grey/white

FDM is ok for scenery and figures down to about 15mm, playing with them on a table details need good eyesight.  Big armies in 6mm,10mm are better in resin.  Resin for painting competition figures.

I would only get a resin printer, if I had a dedicated, separate shop for it. It's not just the fumes. It's the UV blocking, the sanding dust, the spills. It's a nasty thing to deal with.