Great playing today, even for your standards!

To clean glue or cap leakage and corrosion from a thru-hole "via", better/gentler to do it manually using a tiny drill bit chucked into a handheld pin-vise (an exacto-knife handle works well for this), especially if the PCB is double-sided; you should endeavor to not remove the plating inside the hole if possible !

Allways good! Thanks.

Thanks for the video Martyn.

From a service and diagnostic perspective that amp gives me a headache and I don’t even work on amps.   It’s definitely better now with the reliability of the valves and attention to the pcb

Bruce Egnator taught me to just heat up the solder joint and shove a toothpick in to clear out anything. Just pull the toothpick out when cool and your hole is maintained.

Hi mate, it's me again. it looks like you repair/mod all the amps I have(Class 5, Vintage modern, AC30S1). The S1 is truly a beast. I've had quite a few VOX amps and I can say it's my favourite along with the AC10, which has the same pre-amp circuit. I just wanted to tell you that VOX states in their manual that due to its design it is normal for this amp to produce (some) noise before it gets warm. Now, I'm not sure if that is some lame excuse or a legitimate reason, but that's what they say. Cheers!

Another great video. Your methodology inspired me to try sorting a Blackstar HT Stage 100. As you've warned before (and found here) its board out to check and replace and then board out again the check and replace.  And that just 9 Caps with  a value of £10!!  Luckily my dabbling is a hobby. From comments below sounds as though you took it as far as you could. As I said great video.  How's your Dad. Back home yet?

I had exactly the same horrible blobby solder joints in a CC2. I thought it had been a victim of William Bodger. Having seen a few of them now, I’m pretty sure they’re factory.

Looks like another piece of gear designed and built without first speaking to a repair tech.  Regards, Jeff.

Hey Martyn, very frustrating amp.. on the brief moment I got to see the revised PCB in that amp it looked to me that the factory added cap was added across the lower resistor.. but the service bulletin described that it should be fitted in series between the two resistors.
Apologies if I got it wrong.

Do you think some freeze spray might help identifying the problem component?

Personally I feel calling these an "AC30" is a bit of a stretch, I'd guess the most "AC30" thing about it is that the output valves are overbiased (haha). The MOSFETs are replacing valve triodes by the look of it, probably bean counters cost cutting. Sounds ok clean though.

I have 2 of these amps, and I put a Celestion alnico gold in one, and an alnico ruby in the other. I reckon I'll have to do some repairs, when something goes out. I haven't found any available schematics, but the block diagram says its attenuated. Thanks for sharing, I would like to learn more about these specific amps. What do you think about the location of the 2 preamp tubes? lol, they could have layed them out better, to be more accessable, instead of reaching up inside, by the transformers lol. But I can find them now, with a flashlight, and mirror lol. I think the jack is kinda janky too, I plan to change them out, eventually, but they're holding up, when I took that washer out, to get a few threads to hold on the jack lol. They're great sounding amps, but we gotta maintain them. I bet I learn a lot more about these amps, after watching this. Mine are so quiet, and I only hear a little noise when I turn on my Wah, or Soul Food pedal, but that's normal. That amp has been modded, or serviced in my humble opinion, I didn't get that paper that you showed. I appreciate you showing us this stuff.