As a retired electrician that has been working with solar power since about 1980's.  These new MPPT regulators are fantastic and there are many brands some good some better than others... .. what I would advise is look at the battery voltage can charge, you may only want a 12volt MPPT now, but with the trends going for higher battery volts get one of these automatic jobs that can look at the battery volts when you wire it up and charge 12, or 24 or 48volts... that makes your MPPT investment that much more valuable as time goes on.

An example is my little sail boat has a solar panel and a little battery to run some LED lights, the Auto pilot and charge the phone and marine radio..  for a few extra dollars my MPPT regulator can do all the different voltages, so when my old 2 stroke outboard motor gives up the ghost, I can put a 24v electric outboard on it for a fraction of the cost and never worry about stale 2 stroke fuel ever again. Knowing the electrics can be converted with the minimum of trouble.

You guy should apply for horse racing commentator .:hand-orange-covering-eyes:

For anyone stuck on where the 1.20v x 21.86 came from in example 1.
This represents the 20% cushion by using 1 step math vs 2 steps.

21.86 x .20 = 4.37 but then you need to add this to 21.86 for a total of 26.23

21.86 x 1.20 = 26.23..the 1 represents 100٪ of the voltage ⚡️..its the short cut ✂️

Great little video. Probably not for total beginners (although it can be watched at slower speed)  but nice to see my calculations confirmed.

Novice solar guy here; wanting to learn to build a simple setup to maintain my mini junkyard stack of auto batteries fully charged via solar.  Great video, I subscribed.

this man teaching is excellent, thanks for your video.

Very clear, fast but clear - watch it as many times on .75 times the speed to make best use. Thanks for sharing this Solar Saving ;)

You don’t have to do math when the short circuit amps, and voltage is on the back of the panel. Then you just look at the rating information the mppt charge controller can do for watts, at a specific battery voltage, and at what voltage it can input from the solar panels depending if the solar panels are series, parallel or both.

I can't speak for other controllers, but the Victron BlueSolar and SmartSolar range harmlessly dump any input power they can't handle, so it' fine to use, say, a 10A Victron controller all the way up to 10A output constantly as that's its continuous rating. Spending more on the 15A model and setting its output to 10A would gain nothing for added expense. One specific use case where the 75V 10A version is ideal is with 250-300 Watts of panels at around 60V with a 25.6V LFP battery rated at 20Ah or more. The voltage headroom between panels and battery means that it will start charging earlier in the morning and carry on charging later in the evening making the most of available daylight.

My mind doesn't work as fast as his mouth does. Other than talking too fast, this was great. I subscribed to the channel and saved this episode.

Very clear, thaank you

This is amazing. Thanks!

This is the video that made the figures make sense.. thanks

I know more now than I did an hour ago. Fair play to you! A New Subscriber 👍👍

This helped me heaps thank you

Very informative! Exactly what I was looking for! Greetings from Mongolia!

Sounds good.

Your video is well good and very well explained!  Even I understood what you were talking about 😂😂😂😂👍

Of course it's also clear now

i :face-red-heart-shape: you!!! thanks for your Clear & Concise information