Still getting pumped early?

👉 Fix it here:
https://strengthclimbing.com/aerobic-base-expansion-program/

It’s usually not effort — it’s a missing aerobic base.

I bought a tindeq 150 today so this video was very inspiring.

Hey man! Just want to say I did your protocol for a 4 week block. I was doing the same overload method except I would do 3 sets before climbing and then as the 4 weeks progress I added the additional set to the next day rather than on my climbing day.

I managed to make 12% gains whereas previously I had been plateaued for ages in spite of consistently hang boarding. Thank you very much for putting out this info, hopefully these gains continue!

As a bouldering climber this video but geared towards a climber of this style would be perfect. To see how to measure and work with metrics like the RFD,  Maximum finger strength, endurance strength)
Looking forward to your next video

Amazing breakdown! I just got a tindeq and this was very useful. I’ll def use your resources. Thank you!

Dear collegue, thanks a LOT for sharing! Hope we'll collaborate one day.

💪🏻💪🏻

Awesome video! I'm only 2 years into climbing but I found all this technical stuff really interesting and will look into investing time following this protocol in the future!

I want to tell you my experience with this program, I had lost some strength over the year prior. Training on the wall just didn't bring it back.

4 weeks on active curls finger strength brought it back from 35kg to 45kg.  And this made a big difference on the wall.

But the plateaus come very quickly. So I tried the same program with a roller lift and got another 4 weeks of gains but almost no noticeable difference on the wall.

Next I thought why don't I just see if I can stimulate tendon stiffness rather than muscle, so I focused on the 10 mm edge with 30 second holds at about 50%. After 3 weeks they increased my passive hold about 15% and got to 20% for a short time however the more I did it the weaker it got. So in the last 2 weeks I have been doing active recovery on that at only 20% load.

I think to keep the gains coming one needs to cycle every 3 to 5 weeks a bodybuilding style routine in-between.  

So like a bodybuilder focusing more 70-80% of max level on the wall or sticking very close to flash level only and trying to get in more volume.  Soon I want to start adding some of your endurance repeaters for off the wall volume.

I think this might be why sport climbers can also dominate bouldering because they often cycle between the two. While boulderers rarely cycle in  serious sport climbing.

Thanks so much for the epic video and information. And putting all the information out there to help us to get stronger!

Great video, thanks for the info! Why do you say that the CF test is more of an anaerobic endurance test? My understanding is that the CF test was designed exactly to find your aerobic endurance, by finding the threshold at which you can maintain an effort aerobically. Lattice themselves from what I know use the 60/70/80% curve estimation only as an approximation when they can’t just directly test someone’s CF. Would be very interested to understand what I’m missing :)

This is a super helpful video that puts all the different ideas and protocols I have been hearing for the last 2-3 years into action. It is very convincing and systematic! Thank you for making it clear and concise with the notes running in the background. Probably, it is a trivial detail, but I needed to make sure... The only points I had to stop were around 3:36 and 4:20. These two plots display the same data (also given in numbers at 7:24) referenced to either MVC-7 or BW, aren't they?

Thank you for the input on active curls. I just put in my results on the StrengthClimbing Tindeq Calculator marking the active curls box and my results  do not at all match my current climbing level. 7b+ as calculated grade and my current sport climbing grade is 8a+.  Peak Force is around 40kg and CF around 20 on each hand. SO did I measure very wrong? I was a bit uncertain about proper form during the CF Test. Especially after 20reps I wasn't sure if I am only pulling with my arm and not with body tension. Any ideas?

Very good video and analysis!! Just for clarification, you suggest to combine AC FSR for strenght and AC ER for endurance within the same session? Wouldn't it be better to separate these somehow?

Love the video!

When Mikhail does the wall crawl exercise, does he have specific holds in mind that he wants to hit?

If I wanted to incorporate wall crawls into my training, what type of holds should I be looking for?

Thanks so much for sharing all your knowledge. Question for you about the active curl endurance repeaters, for testing critical force, are you going to use finger curls during the test and the 4-minute standard critical force test in the app?

For what reasons is the "active pulling" easier to recover from (compare to passive pulls) ? Thx

Great video and really good insights!

I am however still confused by the efficacy of the endurance repeaters, especially given that they got more anaerobic than aerobic work to it. Given an individual who is relatively balanced in all energy systems, would you still suggest tindeq endurance repeaters as the best way to improve the endurance factor in single pitch sports climbing? I'm recalling Climbstrong's skyscraper analogy which suggest that training the alactic and aerobic energy systems is much more effective, contradicting spending time doing the, mostly anaerobic, tindeq repeaters as prescribed here.

Much appreciate the wealth of great info.  I've been climbing a few years but without much structure - just enjoy myself climbing 3 times a week with no specific training regimen. The last year or so I've been stuck at the same level (mid 5.11) so now I want to use my time more effectively to improve.  In a few comments above you mention the  best approach is to do short AC FSR  on climbing days as a finger recruitment exercise before you start climbing rather than on rest days.  Question: what is the advantage of doing this before climbing rather than on a rest day?  And what about AC ER? or other endurance training. Do you also do the endurance training on a climbing day? ... or is the endurance training better on a rest day or after climbing on a climbing day?

Great video!  For the AC FSR, do you measure your Peak force (MVC) before each session or just do an MVC measurement before the start of the cycle and build from 5 to 10 sets at that specific MVC?  How many cycles of this protocol did Misha do to see the gains reported?  Did he experience a plateau over the 7 months?  Thanks!

Nice work! how do you compute w'?
I have just bought a tindeq!