Break cut-offs are an essential safety feature. If you get a runaway motor you'll be glad to have them!

I use a gear change cutoff on my BBSHD hybrid bike, maybe I am lucky but it works perfectly and gives the bike an overall factory feel. I don't need to instruct anyone riding it on how to do proper gear changes, just let them go and the gear change sensor handles it, no need to teach them about using brake levers as a gear change "clutch".

I also have a Stealth gen 3 MTB that I do lots of technical riding with on trails. Many tend to not use brake sensors or gear change sensors on these, and I do get the idea of not having them (or at least the gear change sensor) on a torque sensing motor.
This is a rather easy bike to do natural gear changes, just letting of pedaling power a bit when changing gears, thus I do not have a gear change sensor on the CYC bike.
Brake sensors however are a MUST for me; During technical (I mean really technical), there's lots of balancing going on where I balance and weight on the pedals while braking and it's straight out dangerous having a bike that will give full power when braking and pedals are given power.
Same goes when standing still, balancing on the bike, I balance the bike pressing a pedal while braking.

What a mess of a text that is, but my point is; Whatever motor system is used, I believe brake cutoff sensors should be used, always. Accidents can easily happen when your motor gives full power (whether it being a torque sensing or cadence motor) because of input, even though your are braking with both front and rear.
If I build a bike for someone, brake cutoff sensors are mandatory.

As a BBSHD/HV Kit owner using PAS for all my offroad rides, i also found the Brake cutoff method the best & the most controllable, over 2,000+ km to date on original Drivechain components (including chain) checked chain & "still just within stretch limits". Cheers for another informative upload. 👍 😊🍻

Being a motorcyclist in my past life, using the left brake lever  (the clutch lever on a motorcycle), comes very naturally and works much better for smooth shifts than my shift sensor (which I don't even believe is functioning).

Yes, a light pull on the brake lever to cut the motor while shifting works great for me on my BBSHD with HV kit.

Really informative. Break sensors definitely for new riders of ebikes to make them safe (e.g., accidentally pulling throttle and they "can't" let go they can grab brake )

Nice one mate,the 50w on the conversion kit very interesting.❤

I have the BBS02 mid motor. I used the USB data cable & bafang software to change the parameters whereby at each level setting (I use the 9 power level settings) in the first second of each time you start to peddle, the motor uses less power & comes in gradually. It sort of mimics a torque based system a little bit. It has its downside sometimes in terms of climbing a steep xc hill - in these situations you lose momentum briefly so you have to anticipate and click up a power level to compensate.

Another good reason to get the HV BBSHD kit!  That 50watt base power sounds handy as can be.
Having said that, I have the shift sensor on my Luna Hotrod Tune BBSHD currently, and it seems to be a quick, snappy disruption and resumption of torque flow when shifts are made, as long as you stay "on the power" during the shifting process.  As someone who tunes a fair number of internal combustion drivetrains, I've been pretty impressed with the tune they put together for the shifts. (no brake sensors for me, I like playing the brake against the motor torque in some circumstances)
Due to the lack of your 50watt power floor on the Hotrod Tune though, if you shift off power, there is a troubling clunk when you get back on the power and the shift finally completes.

Can the brake cut off wire cable be disconnected from the brake lever in order to replace it if damaged?

I use a button like a clutch on my left thumb!

How to remove the brakes cut off

Im def a proponent for gear shifters, especially when starting out.
I exploded my first derailleur getting greedy with power shifting.
That being said im a bit tired of cleaning the grease/oil off the roller and not detecting shifts. that and using it without a clutched derailleur and having cutouts on big bumps

I only recently added the brake sensors to a tsdz2 which is a torque sensing setup. Honestly found it quite useful at the higher power settings for a few lower speed manoeuvres like weaving through the barriers placed down an alleyway expressly marked as a cycle path in my town. Sometimes it just wants to snap a little aggressively when you don't want it to. Also the tsdz2 firmware isn't the fastest responding in the world and was sometimes fighting the brake as I'd start braking. Ultimately been finding it a bit of a game changer.

My new ebike build is DD hub motor based and I may be using the brake sensors to trigger regen.

YMMV of course, but with the Photon with torque sensing, neither brake or shift sensors are needed. Especially for decent chaingroups with decent derailleurs, correctly adjusted. My Eagle NX setup shifts flawlessly even under moderate power. Not having the shift sensor give you more choice - you can either power through shifts or just back off.

I went through 2 gear sensors before I realised I don't need them. They are too unreliable. I use the brake cutoff on the rear brake when changing gear instead.

Thanks for the info. I would like to share my opinion and experience
Brake cutoff allows instant power assist. Good when starting facing uphill. Hold the brake, press on the pedal, then release the brake.
I can't find this behavior. on other bikes without brake sensor.

I personally on lighter builds only run front brake so what I did was I used my other brake disconnected. Aka I only was using the electric feature not the actual physical brake, it basically acted like a very natural feeling clutch that I could pull all the way, shift and then release with no weird automation

i have stock bbshd and sturmey archer 3 speed hub. i have an extra brake lever with the cable attachment remvoed connected to the shift sensor plug with a block in the spring to make the tension stiffer (when i go over bumps the lever vibrates and disengages the motor. i only need the brake(clutch) lever when shifting up under load. down shifting is always clutchless and only need the clutch going from gear one to gear 2 up a hill. on the 3 speed hub you have to slow your cadance till you feel the cam move over in the hub. once you feel the gear shift you can release the clutch.

the gearshift sensor definitely simplifies shifting. you can just keep pedaling, no need to back off, also with torque sensing motors (i have now a toseven dm01) it's a huge improvement over no shift sensor. you still need to apply torque to the pedals during shifting, but when the motor cuts off completely, the shift gets very smooth, as long as you have a high enough cadence.
on bbs motors, the shift sensor delay is much shorter than the brake cutoff delay, which results in a faster acceleration, but also requires a higher cadence to avoid crunching.
the funny  thing with brake sensors is, they always supply you with these stone age brake levers nobody will ever use. Either you can use the julet/higo cable to make your own kill switch (for manual motor interruption) and/or install a hydraulic pressure switch (the one from magura is really good! ). I've recently also used the brake sensor to switch a brake light on a modern ebike lights kit. really cool function!