So cool you gave Russo a voice here. Gnarly guy and one of the many unsung heros in the water who dont get the recognition they deserve. Its one thing to be on a "board" in big sharky surf dancing around the impact zone... an entirely different thing completely "exposed," while swimming with one hand and dragging 20lbs of camera in the other. Kudos!
There are no core lords in the surf industry that couldn't write a book with crazy stories. Great episode boyz, thank you! BTW, where can I see Russo's angle of Reef's OTW bomb that won WOTW and wave of the decade, I can't find it anywhere?
35 minutes into the video, it's late, I need sleep, but the Chile' story triggered so many memories of terrible wipe outs, near drownings and travel insanity that now I'm afraid of what my dreams have in store for me. I'm goin outside to look at the moon for a minute.
One time spearfishing on Sumbawa the swell started rising, I was alone when I got sucked out near one of the headlands. There was nothing but 6–8 foot waves slamming into the huge cliffs which went as far as I could see them. Spend a lot of time fighting to get bac to the headland, but was on a treadmill, so I gave up and let the current carry me down the coast. Now in blue water about 500 meters from the headland, had a few fish with me on the bouy, so I let my belt and the fish go, swam semi close to the cliffs and trimmed the back of the waves as a last attempt to stay somewhat close.
By then, I was dehydrated and cramping all the way up into my neck. Eventually, I reached another headland a few kilometers farther down the beach, but there was a rip current there too, running out of that bay. Maybe about 50 meters wide.
I ignored the cramps and pushed sideways through the rip. Once I got into the bay, I kept kicking for my life, finally got to the impact zone and let the waves pound me all the way back to the sand.
I haven't surfed in years and stumbled across this discussion. This is such an interesting subject ai became riveted instantly. The water photography pecking order is something I would never think existed. The headbutt was perfect. All you guys weather you know this or not, you have charmed lives. Growing up on the North Shore must be quite an experience, in and out of the water. Its such a unique environment on an island in the middle of nowhere the produced 3 outstanding individuals. Thank you fellas for sharing the story's. Keep up the good work. You put me in a positive mindset and im much appreciative for that.
There's nothing better than to hear first person stories and tales and adventures of surfing. I have my own but hearing what I just heard on this podcast is what makes Koa and his bro epic. I can sit and listen to them all day. Keep it up guys. You guys will be OG for the next generation and Daniel is and always has been my favorite surf photographer Daniel's the goat. Id do just about anything for a photograph May all three of you stay safe in the ocean and I pray she keeps you safe Always, # Wardo