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A comprehensive look the bike shops don't want you to know. Outstanding. Been riding 65 years.

I’m 70 and I’ve had a LOT of e-bikes. Now I have a mini-GOAT power bike, with a 50ah battery. I use throttle only, altho I kept 2 other bikes that are pedal assist, and one has torque sensor and one is cadence sensor. I like having options. I LOVE being able to have a 60-70 mile ride without worrying about going dead or switching batteries.
It’s hard to find the perfect sweet-spot… but the goat is close. 😃

I'm around a 173 pounds. I mine own assist 2, the second level and hi gear.  And I can pedal all along , and it's not getting so fast it outruns me , but I can up with it , that's how I exercise

Thanks for the tips, esp. the power assist level (keep it as low as possible) and importance of tire pressure and pedaling from stops. The cold specs. as well as watt hours are interesting.  I am about 125lbs, carrying about 15lbs, riding a  26'' $400 Wescott  E-bike with a 10.4 AH battery (and you should mention the aH rating as it makes a lot of difference in range and cost. And not to charge when battery is hot).
However, if I want exercise then i can my old mechanical street bike (the thinner the tire, the easier to pedal), but if i take the E-bike then (at age 74) it is because I want to save energy.   Thus the power assists is likely at max, and  use of throttle is normal. But which means about a 20 mile range.

Great Video
Your right
Most of the time I'm in
PAS. 2. That's 15mph
PAS. 3 20mph

I have a cadence sensor, but no torque sensor, which is effectively on my bike an on-off switch for the rear drive motor. The motor gives constant power depending on which assist mode is selected. It therefore does not matter in theory what cadence is adopted, unlike the position with a mid drive. where pedal input matters. The other point is hills. Unfortunately, I live in an area where some unavoidable hills are between 15 and 20% gradient (1 in 7 to 1 in 5) for over 300feet of elevation. This crucifies my battery which I have proved on the flat will attain 60 miles or so. The battery cannot manage anything over 20 miles range on these hills which demand full power even when your excellent tips about tyre pressure, lowest assist mode etc are factored in. The bike has sometimes lost 10% or so capacity on one hill alone. And I am only 70 kilos.

Good video. My wife and I ride trikes from Meetone. Her trike has twin 20 amp hour batteries. And mine has a 50 amp hour. Both trikes weigh over 100 lbs. I keep the tires at 25 Lbs due to the fact to keep a softer ride on bumpy roads. We live in northern Pa with plenty of steep hills. My wife has bad knees so throttle riding is her only option. I run peddle assist in 1 or 2. So if she runs low on battery I can tow her
My trike has two motors. The front motor will turn on in assit 2. So far we have put these trikes to the range test. Up and down in 30% grades. From 100% charge we rode about 12 miles. Came home with 80% charge on both trikes. This is the first time I watched one of your videos. I dont know if you have taught this yet but I learned to only go by voltage when it comes to battery range and drain. On a 48 volt system 54.6 = 100%.  53 = 90%. 51.5 = 80%  48.4 = 60%  and not going any lower than  43.7 = 30%. I charge up to 90% and charge to 100% every 3rd ride to keep the cells equalized. Not to ride when temperature is higher than 85 degrees. Or lower than 35 degrees. On flat riding at the rail trail we have gone 35 miles with 90% battery left. And that was using throttle only on hers and I did some peddle assist. So when checking the voltage I do it when stopped. Not under load. The bar graph on the controller is useless.

Great video. Does this apply to riding a veloretti ebike in Rotterdam?

Great tips - thanks. I just bought my very first eBike about 10 days ago - the Lectric XP4 750w step-over. After my first full battery charge, I did a range test: pedal assist, no throttle, Tour mode, increased torque multiplier, flat pavement (flat here in Houston), had to do about 3/5 of a mile through short – medium grass. Shortly after the display dropped to 0%, my voltage was 42.1v - so about 8% left on the battery. Mileage was 58.1, so I'm sure I could have gotten at least 60 miles on that charge. I'm around 232 pounds. From here on out I'm sure I'll be using the throttle some, so I probably won't see 60 miles on a charge that often, but I'm ok with that.
So, based on the formula, with my 840Wh battery and about 60 miles on the charge, I used about 14 Wh per mile. I'm happy with that.
As a 61 year old first time eBike owner, I'm looking forward to many more years and miles on the bike. I'll remember your tips as well. Thanks!

Awesome vidio. I'm retired at 67 years young. Just shopping, hoping. lol

Yeah i got my lectric xpedition 2.0 a Lil while ago. After 200 miles I will say..im fairly impressed so far...even with the range honestly...I went from Meyersdale PA to Cumberland Maryland on the GAP trail...its 32 miles..and but what matters is the about 2 thousand feet in elevation change..somewhere around there..I made it back though and still had some charge  left..not alot but enough to use full power still..about 65 miles...I got the 120 mile range option..lol yeah I know its annoying and it sucks f feeling lied to..but u gotta understand that's basically in a windless tunnel they testing this range 😊 perfect conditions..no elevation..so yeah take that into account..also they usually use lightweight riders for range tests..honestly if i had a flatter place to ride I wouldn't be surprised if I could get closer to 80 or 90 miles...which is more than I really need anyways

I mostly cycle in muscle mode.

I disagree about tire pressure. Respected tire manufacturers, like Schwalbe, conducted detailed tests measuring rolling resistance of different tires, smooth and knobby, narrow and wide, with different tread pattern, and they have found that both low and high pressure increase wheel rolling resistance. There is a sweet spot for every particular tire, bike and rider weight and surface conditions. The point is, high tire pressure increases vertical accelerations of the bike and results in energy loss, especially on a rough surface. Low tire pressure leads to increase of hysteresis losses due to rubber deformation but reduce vertical accelerations. For example, for a mountain bike, for a rider weighing about 200 lb, with tires 2 x 27.5, the best pressure is around 30-35 psi.

Thank you for these tips. Wow. I am a real person and I am confident that I am an expert when things are generated AI. Humans generally do not talk or act like this. Speech is too perfect cadence. Not natural at all. That’s not human unless you have a PhD in super communication skills. I am seeing this trend on YT these past several years with YT content creators. Yet, i still watch it for story telling voice that lulls me to sleep. 😂

I begin my ride on my E-Bike with no assist at all. Half way of my total ride I switch to Assist 1 and the depending on the grade of the upcoming hill I switch to Assist 2 or 3. I can ride my E-Bike at 15 KM on Zero=0 assist. In assist 2 I can ride at 25 KM. On assist 3 I can ride 32 KM easily. I normally get 3 to 4 25 KM rides per charge.

Ai can mack the samme book

I bought a Mokwheel e bike. I find if i stsy below 14 mph and assist level 1,  the thing will go way over 60 miles on a charge. Not sure what the point is? If i wanted to peddle myself to death i would just continue to ride my old mountain bike that will go on forever without a charge. The whole point of me getting an e bike was to ride as far ir farther without killing myself in the process. So i guess range is more about how much work you are willing to put into your ride.

ebikes in netherlands drive only 25 km/hr !!

People who buy e-bikes to get exercise and then spend all their time in the highest PAS setting and use throttle to get moving make me crazy.  Just like those who cancel their gym membership just because they can’t park close to the door, they are losing the plot early.