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Heads up, ABS, ASA, and PA are impact strength materials. PLA, PETG, etc. are tensile strength materials. When applying force parallel to the layer lines, use a tensile strength material for better results. You should always plan your print to have perpendicular force application though as it SUBSTANTIALLY increases the strength for all materials.

Worth noting when designing replacement parts you often have to design for 3D printing and not just copy the injection molded or otherwise manufactured part. For example with the door handle surround, if there is room you could widen the tabs to increase strength and add a tapered support at the back of the tab rather than keeping the sharp L. Sharp corners in general are also stress riser areas which means they are more likely to crack at those points, so round all your corners. Print orientation can also make a difference, but it can be hard to get the desired finish then. Fuzzy skin is a good way to get a cool look if you wants something that looks more like a bed plate texture. Cool temperature testing too!

The parts here don't seems like they were truly optimized for 3D printing. Plastic part design is its own field and 3D printed part design is becoming more of its own field as this manufacturing process becomes more and more useful and realistic for the industry. Part orientation is also huge especially for the tabs and small features, many prints are best done at an angle to prevent the forces on the part from being in the direction of the layer. Good layer adhesion is important but the part can be exponentially  increased with part orientation. At the same time though, a plastic part should really never see any long term forces, especially clips and tabs because of creep. They can see forces and impacts but they shouldn't be prolonged to prevent creep. In the end its more than wall thickness and infill, if you are really trying to make a strong part you need to start at the geometry and then use infill, orientation, and wall thickness to further improve it.

Actually the abs part behaved like regular clips in a car 😂

The question no one seems to answer is:  How do these materials hold up under extreme cold conditions?  Some automotive HVAC slide controls use plastic parts that get brittle in northern winter conditions.  If the control wire binds a bit, positioning the slider control can break the plastic part.  While summer interior temperatures can get hot, these parts are not exposed to the sun so must maintain structural performance up to the 170°F ambient interior temperature in warm summer climates.  In cold conditions, structural performance down to at -20°F or colder is needed.  What material will perform over this extreme temperature range?  Filament data sheets rarely specify cold performance.  I am guessing that properly annealed nylon 3D printed parts might be suitable for this application.

Check out PCTG.  Instead of petg.  It prints about the same … a bit higher temp … but also resists temperatures even higher (80-85c) without losing its structure …. And has MUCH stronger layer adhesion than petg or abs. (Also has more flex )
Which will help your part.  
Though heed what others said about 3d printing design.  It’s different.  But you “can” muscle through it by just making use of different materials.

ABS requires a hotter chamber for better layer adhesion. those tabs broke because of bad layer adhesion. you need your bed at about 110 Celsius minimum for good Larry adhesion and also a chamber of no less than 45° c

Thank you for this. I've watched a few videos. But yours seems to answer a lot of what I was wondering.

Thanx . I was thinking of a Corbin...but not now....Thank you good sir.

I've had some control knobs printed from PLA+ for just over a year now in my car. They still look and feel like the day they came off the print bed. I live in northern Michigan.  Very hot summers and very cold winter, and I'm parked in direct sunlight most of the time

ASA and ABS Don't have strong layer adession strength like petg. Any fillers will make the layer bonding worse. If you print in horizontal way so that all the layers lines in one direction it will make it stronger.

Great testing

I printed 3 holder for the awning in my camper roof. I used PETG HF which was not resisting the heat a long time. One of them deformed heavily, another a little and the last one was ok. I took them all down and made the holders with 4mm steel sheet. Safer than plastic.

My petg hitch cover has been doing great! Going on year 2

With the trailer hitch test, it's the same amount of weight with each turn, so it's really just the difference in the length of time exposure than increased force.

nice video,  thanks

Exactly the video I needed. Now I just need to order a Miraco Plus for scans and we’ll be off to the races, no pun! 🤘

New to 3D printing and printing car parts (mostly interior) for an old Volvo is the reason I'm here. One thing else to consider is you can use the 3D printed object as the base for a carbon fiber part. I had a console with damaged wood veneer, and rather than try to restore the veneer, I covered it in carbon fiber and it looks GREAT in my 850 R Estate.

3:47 lol that’s hilarious 😂 Prusa did a lab test by the way. There is no harm coming from filaments with gf/cf. But don’t cut or machine it. Airborne particles can get into your lounges.
To get the hooks better position the long side in a 45* angle to the bed. This way the layers are overlapping in the bend direction and makes the hooks stronger.
7:48 add more walls for higher strength.

Thanks for sharing your experience ❤