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180 Days Testing Changed Our Opinions on Finger Training Devices

Hooper's Beta

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📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 160
https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/1...

⚠️ DISCLAIMER
Hooper's Beta is providing content that aims to inform rock climbing enthusiasts and/or individuals interested in the field of physical therapy of the various physical conditions that may befall those engaged in the sport of rock climbing, for informational purposes only. None of the information provided by Hooper's Beta should be regarded as medical advice or construed to be a medical diagnosis of any form. By using our products, services, and/or the information provided, you acknowledge that you understand this information is not meant to be a substitute for medical advice from an appropriate licensed healthcare professional, and that you will not rely on any of the information you acquire from us as the sole basis, personally or as a suggestion to others, to make any healthcare-related decision(s). If you suspect that you may have a medical condition that you are trying to diagnose, we strongly urge you to seek the advice of an appropriate medical practitioner. If you have a medical emergency, you should contact emergency services immediately.

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20 Comments

@HoopersBeta Creator 10 months ago (edited) Pinned

Some useful links and preemptive Q&A:
👉 25% off Realand’s responsibly sourced protein powder with code “hoopersbeta”: https://realandnutrition.com/
👉 Our BRAND NEW ModEdge and other training/recovery tools: https://www.hoopersbeta.com/store/our-products
👉 Our affordable recovery and bulletproofing programs (for fingers, wrists and NOW ELBOWS!): https://www.hoopersbeta.com/recoveryblueprint
🙏 Special shoutout to all the brands that have provided their devices for testing. Check them out below (alphabetical order)…
https://www.etsy.com/shop/ArrowsmithTraining
https://cruxgear.com.au/
https://www.fingers-of-fury.com/
https://frictitiousclimbing.com/
https://headtotoe3d.com/
https://latticetraining.com/
https://metricclimbing.com/
https://natureclimbing.com/
https://www.specializedmasochism.com/
https://tensionclimbing.com/

❓Q&A❓
Q: Why are you calling out [specific person / device / brand]?
A: We're not. All memes / jokes / call outs are referring to general trends.

Q: Why didn’t you list the names of the devices/brands in the video?
A: It would have been impossible to show and name every device equally, without making it seem like one was better or worse than another. Since this video is not a review video, it would not be appropriate to implictly recommend one brand over another.

Q: Why didn’t you tell us which device is best?
A: It’s too subjective; there is no universal “best” (hopefully the lessons in this video made that clear).

Q: Why didn’t you include ________ device?
A: We either have it and didn’t have a place in this video to show it or we weren’t able to get access to it. If it’s the latter, it’s because we didn’t know about it or the company has not sent us one (and we don’t have the budget to go buy every device on the market). If it’s the former, luckily this is not a review video so not showing certain devices does not detract from the quality of information.

Q: You said you tested over 30 edges but there are only a handful of links in this comment; why?
A: A few reasons. One: several of the devices were ones we made / 3D printed ourselves. Two: Some companies sent us multiple different edges. Three: Some of the devices were not sent to us by the brand — they were simply already owned by us or the gym.

Q: Can I send you my device for testing?
A: Yes, email us at info@hoopersbeta.com. Note that we do not guarantee your device will be shown or discussed in a video.

@mls01981 10 months ago

I try to alternate 4-6 week cycles between hangboarding and block pulls. Within block pulls, there are arguments for having both unlevel edges (minimize overuse injuries and train up the 5th finger) and level edges (closer approximation of climbing), as well as a 20-25mm edges (more comfortable for strength building) and smaller edges (skin prep/pain tolerance before a project).

The magic question is how to structure all the training and if additional supplemental training devices (pinch blocks, rolling thunder, wrist wrench) are worth adding.

@couldhaveseenit 10 months ago

I would love to see some testing of mobeta's hand of God. I'm skeptical of his claims, but they do look very well engineered

@jingyangteoh685 10 months ago

HooperBeta videos are honestly so enjoyable to watch, even for someone like me who has grown out of the phase of binging climbing training youtube for inspiration. I blame hooperbeta's lack of frequent uploads for my decreased youtube activity these days 😤

Anyways, it's kinda amazing to see how the landscape of finger training has already changed in less than a decade. It's wild to think that these days, serious climbers leverage upon multiple grip tools just to maximise ONE strength goal ...

@timcross8379 10 months ago

Come on guys. There clearly are strings attached. How else are you going to attach the weight? 😁

@jingyangteoh685 10 months ago

that swivel device is GENIUS

@taioside 10 months ago

Haha nice to see footage from neighborhood gyms, the Wall in Vista and Vital Oceanside 😊

@molimba 10 months ago

lmao the memes are 10/10 in this one :D

@AnabolicClimbing 10 months ago

Genuinely love this video. Like emil, ill probably never use a flat edge for heavy work again bc it tends to over extend my ring fingers. That said, the Latice mixed edge has been great for me. But yeah, try all the toys train hard and send the gnar friends!!!

@jingyangteoh685 10 months ago

On lesson #5: it is suggested by the video that there is no "optimal custom made edge". I do agree that most products on the market don't live up to the ideal that we're striving for, but just from a purely mechanistic standpoint (imagine your finger literally as a mechanical system), there MUST exist a configuration of edges that maximises the gripping ergonomics associated to your target stimulus.

It should really just come down to simple math: the distance between your joints eill affect the joint angles associated to a certain edge and this is something that we should be able to design for! Maybe Hooper's beta can print a prototype for reference? XD

@RFrecka 10 months ago

Would love to see a video detailing the vast variations in hand morphology. Even between the few of you I bet there are some significant differences.

@FWMG90 10 months ago

Hi, cool video 👍

I would be interested to know where exactly I can buy this swivel mount in your video, as I have been looking for something like this for months.

I would appreciate a reply ✌️

@jakesands7419 10 months ago

@HoopersBeta

How might you accommodate (either in finger training or climbing) with an index finger that is shorter than the ring finger, and thusly not taking enough of the load/attributing to equal load distribution?

@jhy8191 10 months ago

Where can you buy a swivel mount? I have been thinking that is exactly what I need to make my Tension block more useable. Thanks for the great video

@nurfuerdieplaylist 10 months ago

thanks for the great info as always!
Do you have any advice for crimping small edges with hypermobile DIP joints? I'm not sure if mine are strictly "hypermobile", but they definetely extend over 180°. So far I've not gotten injured, but I can never quite shake off that ominous feeling something might happen to them in the long run... Is there a way to shorten the ligaments and stuff that are controlling that angle?

@Washed_Up_Board_Dad 10 months ago

Looks like the edge i make is novel! #milkedge

@TheMysticPasta 10 months ago

Man, everyone is chasing ergonomics. Very interesting seeing what everyone is coming up with although a lot of stories about injuries on unlevel edges. Been happy with my HoGs so far and excited to see the gains.

Got an interesting design yourself. Is there a recommendation on how to set the depth or just vibes off what feels good?