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On your 'rock and roll' segment. PAY ATTENTION to the strippers size markings. One side may be for Stranded and the other for Solid. They are not the same hole.

Wire nuts installed properly, stripped evenly, insulation lined up, then twisted until the visible insulation turns 2 or 3 times, no bare copper visible,  provides a far superior bond (more contact)  between the splice and the wire nut, resulting in less damage to the splice, less wasted time!   Don't take my word for it, dissemble and inspect a properly done wire nut and a pre-twist, might be surprised! 56 years in the trade, never called back for a single failure! State electrical inspector / Electrical contractor

I had a 2008 New Construction in NJ - every single outlet and light switch had the 'backstab' connector used.  We were still on incandescent bulbs back then, and I remember the lights being just a tad duller than they should have been. I upgraded the switches to blade-style- and I made sure to use the regular j-hook method to secure the wires.  When I turned the lights on, I suddenly had full unrestricted current being made available to the incandescent bulbs, so they were full brightness.  Using those backstabs is the same as using smaller sized plumbing with PEX B fittings everywhere, which chokes the water down even more.  
Glad we got rid of that house and now have a bullet proof 1975 home.

I had a family friend that called me about their outdoor outlets not working as they were trying to use a corded trimmer and leaf blower. I came over and searched and searched for a broken wire or electrical fault somewhere between the panel and branched circuits - even looking in the attic and crawl space. I'd already spent over an hour on a frustrating "friendly call" (ie, meaning a free "favor"). It turned out to simply be tripped GFCI receptacle in the bathroom (out of their 2-1/2 bathrooms) - one that fed the whole outdoor receptacle circuit that had tripped when the wife tried to use her hair dryer. All of that could have been avoided if any one of the original electricians or helpers had taken the time to simply use one of the several "GFCI Protected" stickers that came inside the box of nearly every GFCI receptacle made to indicate that the downstream receptacles were GFCI protected, FFS.....

The first one you mentioned is so important, when I was teaching my students in the electrical course, I would show them how many times a nicked wire could be bent back and forth before breaking versus a non nicked wire - I think I got through to them!!!!

The electrician that wired my home (built in 2015) for some reason did something really weird. One circuit first goes to a GFCI outlet in the garage, then comes back to the utility room (coming off the Load side), where the main load center is located, and feeds a receptacle for the (tankless) water heater and water softener. It then heads to the back yard to feed the receptacle by the back door, and then back to the front again to feed the receptacle by the front door. Not only is it a lot of needless criss-crossing of the house, it also means I get cold showers when rain falls on an extension cord in the back yard that feeds a heated pet bowl and trips the GFCI. It took me a while to figure out how it was wired the first time it happened.

One day I'll get around to fixing it, moving the exterior receptacles to their own circuits, each with its own GFCI.

The sad thing is that he actually used more wire doing it this way than he would if he had done it right, by at least double. And there's plenty of space in the load center for more circuits. Makes me scratch my head...

I already like this channel a lot, but you just earned major bonus points if those are your CDs.

it wouldnt be a backyard maine vid without talking about backstabbing, which is what your local building dept does to your back!

I hate when outlets in a totally different room or area, are fed from a GFCI somewhere else, just makes it a real pain to track down.

Helpful. I was guilty of rocking and rolling. I’ll try to stop that.

With that camera angle, I'm wondering how does he even fit in between the desk and the workbench? 😂

Thank you for your helpful tips. I'm one of the very few that was raised with what is called common knowledge. With experience in all fields of construction, with the the exception of electrical. I currently have 2years of experience diagnosing water wells. Some how it has advanced my experiences with my current job that deal with everything under a roof. Thank you for calling me out on some of my ignorance 🙂
Jack of all trades master of most. Minus a degree

I regularly "skip the twist", being more concerned with choosing the correct size of wire nut and making sure all the wire ends are aligned, but having seen bad wire nut connections made by pros, I have gotten into the habit of vigorously pulling on each wire to make sure it is solidly captured by the wire nut.

Concerning the part over the backstab connection / the spring-loaded connector:

Where I work, the electrical safety body VDE, as well as the organisation responsible for training and licensing electricians (IHK), recommend the spring-loaded connector over screw terminals. The reasoning lies in the way the connection is established. The wire is pushed onto a connector plate by a piece of metal. When pushing in the wire, the metal is only deformed elastically, which means that the deformation applied to it is so small that it does not affect the metal’s permanent shape (that would be plastic deformation). That means that after removing the wire, the metal piece will always return to its former shape, no matter how long the wire was in the terminal.

That guarantees a predefined contact pressure on the wire. This means the manufacturer of a terminal connection can make sure that, in practice, an inserted wire will be connected with the pressure he specifies based on his product testing, which with a screw terminal would only be possible by using a special torque screwdriver.

But since the metal holding the wire in place is only deformed within the elastic range, it will never adjust to the wire pushing it. This means that despite age and micro-vibrations caused by a wire when it gets hot, the connection will always keep the same strength. Screw terminals, on the other hand, are usually not secured against that phenomenon. That means no matter how tight the screw was, there is nothing preventing the screw from slightly turning over time as the wire vibrates and expands and contracts under different temperatures.

If, for example, the wire slightly expands, forcing the screw terminal’s screw slightly outwards, there is no force retightening the screw to the wire after it contracted again. In the spring-loaded connector, however, if the wire expands, it pushes the metal piece holding it further out. But as it shrinks again, the metal piece follows it, keeping the original pressure on the wire.

It is very common in my experience to find screw terminals of circuits with high loads to be looser than those of ones with low load. That is why the spring-loaded connector is often referred to here as a maintenance-free connection, as the only thing that could over time increase the connection’s resistance is oxidation, but that is usually negligible.

Corrected my multi branch circuits thanks to this channel.  Installed the proper two pole 20 amp breakers.

I literally just got another AI ad. It didn't have you in it but it was for the same type of fake device that I originally was trying to find you about and it showed up on this video.

1:25 I use the end of the tool and grab onto the insulation and pull it off.

Hey John . Thank you for your video sir. I mentioned in an earlier video about the power saving devices and have someone used aI to create a video claiming to be you.  As i mentioned in the other video i was trained and some of the basics of electricity and house wiring industrial wiring Etc. I'm not a certified electrician. At the beginning of this video i was reminded of a situation where my main breaker and my home's breaker box was causing other Breakers to trip. My brother has been a certified electrician for at least 30 years. Unfortunately he's battling cancer right now but you got to love the guy. He told me that if I needed advice over the phone concerning electricity or mechanical issues with my truck that he would be glad to give me guidance. He comes from the old school. He co-owned a mechanics shop in the 70s and as always fixed things
I called him about this intermittent loss of power and a certain section of my home and he advised me to double check every breaker , every connection and to replace the breaker associated with the area that was losing power intermittently. That did not show me any signs of a bad breaker although I replaced it anyway. Then I decided to cut the main from the outside and to remove the breakers on the inside electrical panel. What I found was that the main breaker inside down had been arcing but was not visible until I pull the main  breaker and saw clear evidence of arcing behind the main breaker.  That's why I watch your show.

Anyways the mobile home is pretty old and I'm thinking about replacing the entire load Center or electrical panel inside with all new Breakers and I think Square D is probably top of the line. I did clean up the box a bit. It was a Rat's Nest when I moved in a few years ago . Anyway thank you for your information and sharing your knowledge. I tried to find what I need on the internet rather than bothering  my brother and that's how I found you. Thanks again and God bless

Love your instructions! My HORRIBLE late winter and early summer in Las Vegas seemed due to a "possessed" breaker box. 1/2 of my house (including Heat-Pump AC would disappear. Called in NV Power and they tested the digital meter AND incoming lines and said they were "within specifications". Ran 1/2 the house's power through extension cords, but that couldn't fix A/C issue. Bought a "Mr. Heater" propane to heat a room during winter. Discovered a bizarre, though temp-fix...turning on a burner on my electric stove brought full-house power back for an indeterminate time. I paid an Electrical Co to come out and they FAILED 1,000%, but offered to move breakers for a big fee, or change-out the breaker-box.for $2,000. I'm a Degreed Mfg Engr., and tested EVERYTHING and could NOT determine the fault. When Summer came on...the heat was TOO MUCH to bear, so I called NV Power in AGAIN.
THIS TIME...their Tech performed the same tests, however, he went the extra step to go above the house and make NEW connections going down into the meter. 100% FIXED the problem!!!!!  REALLY?? I even asked a friend who's a retired JPL Electrical Engr...and he had NO IDEA??? Extremely grateful for that Tech going the extra mile. Still... I'm wondering...does NV Power OWE me $75 (power cords). $80 for a worthless diagnosis and $2,000 quote, $100 (space heater), $300 (food loss), $50,000 (Pain/Suffering)?? Anyway...if ANYONE has such a bizarre issue...Take Note.