I love this video. I feel like this is truly the beating heart of YouTube videos, where you went and learned something and decided that others deserved the knowledge too. Thank you for this! Great info!

20:33 Great demonstration dude!

The explanations were very good, quite direct and precise. Thank you.

Great and helpful video, wish you would hold the stuff your holding closer to the camera, but other than that great video thanks!

13:22 Your barrel has nothing to do with reaching a distance.
SS barrels isn't really better than brass and tight bore isn't really better than wide ask the players using, and prefer 6.05mm 6.08mm.
You can have a lot of different issues with hop units, they might need smaller nozzle.
The might need a barrel spring instead of the small spring.
They might be very loosely fitting around the rubber.
The inner nub window might not match up properly with the barrel window.
The C clip might not fit securely in the barrel cuts.
Hop arm could be slightly off pushing the nut down more on one side.
Some unit hop arms and the types of bucking and nub used won't allow you to turn hop fully off.

This new hop from APS has some features like the Maxx but doesn't  have the type of issues people have come across with Maxx.

Great video, well explained and super helpful. Thank you.

Great vid and recording setup! 🔥

glad you guys are making informative videos for us that are just getting started. much appreciated...you asked what kinds of things im looking for information on... me personally i am new to airsoft and i find it difficult to find reliable non bias reviews and new new on guns ext....also what parts go with which guns, in an upgrading and compatibility aspect....cheers

I have a 4UAD bucking and a maple leaf tensioner nub is that a decent combo for .28-.32

Cool. I didn't know what it was and 30 minutes later I know roughly how it works and what to replace when mine breaks.

You should have more subscribers.  I have learned a lot from your videos I thought I already knew.  So much misinformation in the airsoft world and of course half the posts someone asks a legitimate question get answered with "we aren't going to spoon fed you", "everyone knows this noob", etc.

Dare to disagree on the hop up unit not affecting performance. If the unit is trash, the arm wont press on the nub evenly (both in terms of applied force and angle at which the nub is held), you will not get consistent performance. Also, tuning hop units might provide better fitment into your replica, and the tolerance of your outer barrel and the hop assembly (chamer-barrel) is what actually makes your gun shoot lasers. You cant have any movement between the barrels and the hop unit

bb weight has almost nothing to do with fps. At 380 u can lift .48 if u have the sufficient air volume if u wish. .32 is around 2.3-2.4, .4 is around 2.7 ish. U can experiment, more is always better than less. U do kinda need a minimum amount of fps tho, like u need 1.4J to lift .4+ efficiently but its much lower than what ppl think u need.

As for hop units, TDC helps push down flat nubs evenly, if u have a large patch or an R hop its almost necessary. But using cylindrical or even omega regular arm can do the trick. Tolerances and centering and stablization is significantly more important. Even with the same parts, u can get vastly different results depending on how u set up ur hop.

Shim the inner barrel to stablize, shim ur hop unit so it is perfectly centered (u can shim the wings to lock them into place into the outter), replace front spring with o rings for more resistance and a tigher seal against the gearbox, make sure ur bucking is not twisted and centered during installation, teflon airseal, make sure ur barrel is centered during installation, the more perfect the straighter it will shoot. Get extended c clips with fine tolerances to secure barrel in place, get larger/extended ring clips at the end of the hop unit to more firmly stop barrel vibrations agains the hop unit. Select a nub that perfectly fills the window size or at least can not move left or right, this ensures that its depressing the bucking patch dead center. Make sure the nub is actually pressing down on the bucking patch, like tnt buckings have very forward patches and nubs like omega will not depress at the right position. The more stable, more center, and tighter ur setup is, the better it will shoot.

Maxx units are actually really bad overall, their tolerances are only ok with a few guns and their nozzle requirements is very picky. Maxx parts in general are pretty garbage, including their nozzle that works the best with their units. Retro arms, prommy, and now Silent industries (arguably THE best) are of similar design but dont have these issues. The SI unit have new features like bucking lips tensioner to increase centering.

Longer and bigger patches can lift heavier and the longer surface makes it more air efficient while providing the same lift. Generally speaking it gives a more consistent spin too, and more of a reversed L shape which gives you significantly more usable range. But a r hop/larger patch isnt always good. Too much contact and u start to have alot of interference, which is why small r hop like ML super mac or 4uad outperform regular r hop in terms of accuracy as they retain the long vertical patch design while removing the sides since the sides dont apply upwards spin anyways but can apply inconsistent left or right spin; this + some form of centeringin the patch design makes them the best of both worlds.

Generally speaking if everything is straight and "welded" together and clean, just stick to the right parts and u will be fine. 4uad pretty much is the best for everything rn, and SI hop is easily the best  for aeg and 4uad's gbb chambers are fantastic too.

I have 2 of those sig 552s. They are terrible to work on.

Ah yes, the old familiar nexus of wanting a good hop unit, but using a gun with little to no aftermarket support. I too am an Sig Fanboy. I’ve got a TM and G&G, both of which use the same hop and both don’t have an aftermarket solution for.

60-70 backings are sweet spots I use 60’s personally since I use hpa so I can fiddle with indoor outdoor and I sling .32 so 60 is perfect also I really don’t like the max hopups I’ve owned 3 of them 1 of them for my scar (that one is actually pretty good or just a lot better than the stock shitty Vfc hop up) I much prefer my tried and true prowins never had any issues throw a Zci with a maple super 60 and the maple flat hitting 300 easy

“Degree” is the wrong word for bucking hardness. The community would be better served if we started saying things like “80 hardness bucking” instead of “80 degree bucking”

Also check out real deal airsoft the barrels he has for 30 bucks are amazing

For a video about misconceptions, there are a few... misconceptions.
Speaking from an AEG technician's side of the hobby, I'd argue that a metal hop-up chamber isn't always a necessary "upgrade" as some chambers require certain parts to be an estimated specification. MAXX chambers require nozzles to be 21.00mm to 21.25mm whereas other companies recommend 21.20mm or est similar to the former. Fine-tuning is still needed.
I've installed plenty of MAXX chambers and know what's needed for proper fitment and feeding. Regardless, my personal builds have polymer chambers and have been running for over 2 years remaining consistent (w/ maintenance, of course). I haven't had one crack on me even when I've loaned a couple of 'em to friends or fellow players.

Referring to the material used for inner barrels, while still an ongoing debate and in trials, stainless steel isn't particularly above brass but definitely not below in terms of performance. Outer coating as well as how the barrel is lapped have to be taken into consideration. Companies like Unicorn Airsoft that coat and lap brass barrels can arguably perform just as well if not better than some of the "higher-tier" barrels (according to some R&D circles) but as I said, still debatable. I've been using Arcturus' QPQ-coated steel barrels, Real Deal's lapped SS barrels, and recently Unicorn's offering (though the latter has been for a GBBR). Abstain from ZCI SS barrels unless you're looking to lap and coat 'em yourself or by a professional.

When choosing a degree for your bucking, I wouldn't recommend relying on the BB weight you're going to use but rather the velocity that your replica has or is aiming for (preferably in Joules rather than FPS) additionally for AEGs, take your air volume ratio into consideration.

I know this is rather lengthy but I wanted to give my two cents. There's no standardization for airsoft so nothing is exactly gospel but hopefully, there can be in the future.

So for like a 430fps (on .20s) dmr (I intend to use .40 BBs) where im concerned about performance and not about longevity I should go for a soft bucking and maybe the metal hop up nub?