There's many ways to drive wedges, but over the years, I've settled on this one. I stand the axe head up on a block and wrap a bit of rag round the shaft which is fairly loosely gripped in the vise jaws - this gives 2 hands free to work on the wedge. I always use a drift between hammer and wedge, as I find it gives me greater control and accuracy ... say a 6" x 2" x 1/2" bit of mild steel bar [I have several of different sizes]. If a wedge looks like it may struggle to 'go the distance', I will often induce a split in the wedge by moving the drift to only cover half the wedge. With the same poundage from the hammer applied to only half the wedge, It usually splits and goes that little bit further ... then repeat for the other half of the wedge. I also find that making the wedge only a quarter to half inch longer than the full required depth gives me better results. This makes the wedge 'stiffer' and less likely to blow out or get crushed. When the wedge is about 2/3rds home, I take the axe out of the vise and give it one last crack on the swell to ensure the head is still fully seated, before going back to the vise and driving it all the way home
You’re right, you really can’t fake that aged look. Good choice on pairing the head and handle together. Turned out great. Also what were you doing with that windex and rusty axe head? I feel like it was a pro tip you need to share.
interested in your sheaths and other axe accessories. I have a leathermaker make a holster for my axe sharpening puck. am making a shoulder strap for my aze soon.
1940's PLUMB VICTORY Axe Head Hung on Vintage Handle
Iron Ox Axe & Tool
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In this video, I hang a vintage PLUMB VICTORY connecticut pattern axe head on a vintage handle I saved from another axe.