Boiled linseed oil we know today is not the same as it was 80 years ago. Back then they quite literally had vats full of heated Flaxseed oil and they just dunked the wood into them.

Just got back from the CMP Advance Maintenance Course and they make a very good case to stay away from the boiled linseed oil!

I operate the M1 Collectors Club we are a National affiliated club. The stocks are made by Boyd’s for Dupage Trading. The stocks are made to WWII specs. CBI makes excellent barrels.

Good stuff. Thanks for the vid. Ive had my CMP "special" now for 15 years and I love it. I even went so far as to get an authentic H&P 1943 bayonet for it years ago. I shoot it whenever I can and am probably going to get another one before the numbers dwindle. And they are dwindling.
Edit: I'm on this side of 60 and my first rifle I shot at 13, right after Gun Safety class was you guessed it-my uncles' Garand. Been in love with em ever since. Everyone should have one.

I've refinished a lot of old USGI stocks. Great tips! I follow a system that always produces amazing results. It's easy to change up depending upon the look you're going for. Are you wanting a show piece to take to the range, or are you wanting a history piece that looks like it just came from the Battle of the Bulge. I'll explain in the following steps:


1. Fully dismantle the Garand. Save the rear hand guard for last. You'll want to remove the gas plug, retainer, and gas cylinder. Remove the forward handguard, and then you can punch the roll pin out of the rear, and it will side off easily. Some people attempt to pry the metal retainer off, but any excess pressure will mar the wood and potentially scratch the barrel. The metal band can be removed from the wood afterwards with snap ring pliers. I typically leave it off, because even with the proper tool it can be a bitch and it may damage the wood regardless.


2. Gather a basin that will accommodate the length of the stock. Prepare enough boiling water to cover the stocks. While it boils, liberally spray the stock's with a degreaser like Simple Green or Krud Kutter. Then pour the water into the basin with the stocks. Place something on the stocks to keep them submerged and then periodically brush the stocks with a soft bristle brush. The hot water will raise any dings in the stock, and remove the old buildup of oil. Do this twice with exception to the rear handguard. It is thin and excessive heat and cleaning can bleach and damage the wood. Once finished allow them to dry at room temp.


3. With the dry stock pieces, you can now prep and sand. I start with 250, 400, and finish with 600. Some people may desire to go up to 1000 or even 2000. Any gouges in the wood can be filled with shellac/wood glue. Fill the gouge with the adhesive, and then sand over the gouge. The wood shavings will fill the gouge and make it less inconspicuous. In some cases, it will be totally hidden. Allow it to build up so that when sanding with your 400/600 grit, it will finish flush. I like to use 0000 steel wool in between sandings.


4. Prep the stock for the finish by removing ALL loose lint and sawdust. Wipe the stock down with 0000 steel wool, and then with a tack cloth or something similar. Take a small basin and pour your boiled linseed oil (BLO) into it. Take a lint free cloth and dab it in the oil, and then lightly apply the first coat. You don't want to splosh it on as BLO take's a long time to dry. I've heard stories of excessive BLO taking WEEKS to dry. Also apply the oil into the inside of the stock. If the wood is especially porous, you may consider using steel wool to apply the coat. Or place a little extra on the rag so that it fills the pours. Now allow this to dry over night. The finish should take on a matte finish, and be dry and non-sticky to the touch. When dry, repeat the same process of oiling the stock. Some do a very light sanding (600 grit) between coats. This is primarily user preference or based upon the condition of the stock and previous coat. I rarely have to do this. ALWAYS dispose of your BLO rags properly. BLO is a highly volatile substance, and rag's laying around have been known to spontaneously combust.


5. You will want to do a coat a day for the first week. I've found that six or seven coat's will typically produce the finish I desire. With each coat, the stock will get darker and darker so this becomes a balance between color and protection. After the 6th or 7th coat, You will want to let the stock sit for 4 weeks. This is when you will do the last coat. As time goes on over the months, the BLO will oxidize and it will redden and darken. Like wine, the finish will improve with time and take on a beautiful finish that resists the elements. Some will state that BLO will "weep" when exposed to heat and humidity. I have yet to experience this, and many believe this to be the result of excessive oiling.


6. Now it's time to re-assemble and enjoy your Garand! Some may desire to apply a wax sealer to the stock. This add's a glossy finish to the stock, and a additional layer of protection.


Notes and Tips: 1. Patience is the key to good results. It will take time and a solid work ethic to do the rifle justice. These are not just rifle's, they are a piece of history. Many folks, including myself, believe that they shouldn't be "overly" redone. Don't fixate over every scratch and gouge. 2. If you see a stamp in the stock, DO NOT sand it down or fill it. These are known as cartoushe's, and some actually date and raise the value of the stock. Pay special attention to these, and be careful to not degrade the stamp/area. 3. Some people fret over the condition of the metallic parts. Some finishes are faded and worn. On many rifle's the entire finish is missing from parts like the gas cylinder and they'll appear shiny. This is not bluing, and one should NEVER touch it up with a bluing substance. This finish is known as parkerizing. Some people may desire to have this refinished to bring the metal back to that military matte black/grey finish. This is often a touchy subject as some people feel it degrades the historical significance, but it's your rifle. The process of parkerizing is dangerous, and while home kit's are available, I feel it's best to have a professional do this. Ask your local gunsmith about it, or search around and you should find somebody that does it. 4. NEVER use a varnish or clear coating on the stock. It's not needed and these are military rifle's. They're not suppose to have a mirror gloss. It also make's future re-finishes a SOB as you'll need a heavy duty stripper to remove the finish. With BLO and maybe a little wax, a rub down with acetone and you'll be all set to re-finish.

" BEAUTIFUL "!!!!

If going the boiled linseed oil route, buy a small, new, unopened container, once the container is opened, it should be used within three years. Fresh BLO dries much better than old BLO.

Boyd's Garand stocks are slightly oversized on the outer dimensions.

I've done 9 M1's, an M1A Squad Scout, and a number of various other firearm furniture.  Strip(if there is an old varnish finish), swell out dings, sand with 220 then 400 then 600 then 1500 grit. No stain. Heavy coat of tung oil (NOT tung oil finish).  Wipe off excess within 15 minutes.  Very fine steel wool applied lightly.  Museum quality.  I believe that initial deliveries of  Garands came with linseed oil finish which never dries.  Gets sticky in humid use.  Later deliveries came with tung oil finish.

Thanks for a great and simple process. I love my CMP Garand and will absolutely follow this and hand apply more linseed and get mine a bit darker and smoother!

It looks great, I have an M1.  I’m gonna work on mine.  Thanks

That's a damn fine looking rifle. I'm watching a lot of videos on oiling stocks.  I'm doing a pure Tung oil treatment on an M14 walnut stock currently. Got to watch videos while I'm waiting a week between coats.

Thanks!  Great video.

I have a Expert Grade Garand and this is what I was looking for!  Very Nice Job!

I had good luck with 3 coats of BLO 24 hrs apart and wiping with 4-0 steel wool each time. On the 4th day I put on 2 light coats from a spray can  can of Valspar satin finish polyurethane, wiping with the 4-0 steel wool between coats, drying between coats. I really took my time with it because the stock was for a Martini-Enfield carbine.

Thank you for the thoughtful and comprehensive walkthrough!  I was lucky enough to grab a CMP expert grade with a beautiful DuPage Trading Company walnut stocks and I will put your suggestions to good use.

Thanks.  I appreciate the video.  I bought one with a new stock on an old rifle from CMP.   Same scenario.  Some of them are done with Tung Oil - especially for the Pacific.

Bravo. Great job.

Definitely the way to go. I’m going to do the same thing to mine. Thanks for the great video.

Thank you for your video and advice. Not to confuse everyone but just to add a consideration, I am not a hard core collector but have three M1s. They are all CMP purchases, as follows:

#1 is a H&R post Korean war edition manufactured in 1954 and bought in 2002. It has a beautiful "original" stock with an aged dark complexion, cartouches, and small "rack/usage dings". Although not carried in battle, I treasure this piece greatly for its military role and authenticity. I did nothing to this stock nor would I ever!

#2 was a Greek repatriated Springfield piece originally manufactured in 1955 whose barrel was "shot out" and a stock that was I'll-cared-for. It had a peace symbol carved in the left cheek. I bought this one in 2004 and had Dean in Tennessee (now sadly passed away) restore it. As you might imagine, Dean did a beautiful job on it, providing a new stock and barrel. I would NEVER do anything to perturb the rich medium gloss finish!

#3 is an expert grade with a reclaimed WRA receiver, a new CMP stock, and a new commercial barrel. The stock has an oil finish that is flat and probably just one coat. I'd like like to add three or more coats for protection and to add a slight gloss luster.

So that's why I came to this site: for guidance. But, like a proud father with three fine sons, I value each M1 for its personality and style! If I wanted them to be all the same, I would have bought three M1s from the CMP back in 2002 to begin with.

My thanks for the great advice in your video.