Bravo, Heather
See you both in 2 weeks.

Another excellent episode!  Your determination to learn and remove items without a ton of mechanical knowledge is admirable.  Granted, while you were prying that shifter housing off...without removing springs and detent balls first...had me worried. Glad it all worked out!  Your channel is perfect, nice mix of repairs, mechanical and body.  I've enjoyed following along.

What a great video! I love your obvious mechanical talent and passion for detailed investigations and admire your ability to try anything with this project even if your depth of knowledge is not complete. I am sure by the end of it all you will be an expert in many aspects of the loveable ‘Landy’. It will be a pain to wait for two weeks but I understand that you both have lives and putting these shows together is a challenge. Great stuff!

Just a suggestion. Back in the day. If we painted them at all we did it with a brush. Looked fine!

2:03 for the best part

Heather , your really doing a good job on the project . Good thought on using the torch too , thats a good choice . You shoukd be pretty happy with your work . What I find as a 45 year shop owner and car restorer , you have the knowledge and  skills intuatively to do what your doing . Great work . Kudos to Jacks work of course , but your like the main event on you river resto and Jacks the heavy lifter ! But you both are doing a good thoughtful  job .

Double check the manual on those small detent springs on the transmission. One is different than the other two. I believe the thicker spring holds reverse in gear, but double check the green Bible, or the parts manual.
Wonderfully educational channel!
I would say at this point, that this is more than a preservation . This is a full on restoration. Well done.
Cheers👍

Put the bulkhead in a dry area, use a heat gun at a distance, and run a dehumidifier. You can dry moisture very efficiently with a dehumidifier by itself.

I love what you are doing and how you are learning as you go. And no one knows everything!
But you are right every plan you have restoring / rebuilding old cars tends to come apart with the first contact with metal. Then its just adapt and overcome.
Just remember those fittings will be BSF or maybe the later UNF / UNC imperial (more familiar in the USA) not metric. SCRIBD do a downloadable or searchable PDF of the original and very detailed parts catalogue for the Series II / IIA. Well worth a read as 1960s parts catalogues had a lot of embedded descriptions. I can't give a direct link as YT deletes the comment!
You have got this going well so good luck from the Others Side of The Pond! 👍

Hi Heather, its paul from England again. Great video, just a tiny bit of advice, when you strip anything down shaft wise, its always a good idea to put a smear of oil or assembly grease on all the moving parts ( shafts) because when you reassemble its all going back dry, and it will take a while for the gear box oil to circulate around the box. As for videos, you do as you see fit, because at the end of the day its your project and we as viewers respect all your decisions.👍

Hi, super Arbeit!
Wegen des Getriebes braucht Ihr euch wenig Sorgen machen, es scheint mechanisch zu funktionieren. Aber ich würde auf alle Fälle das Lager der Eingangswelle prüfen. Obwohl Ferndiagnosen schwierig sind, scheint es meiner Meinung nach zu viel Spiel zu haben. Ausserdem würde ich die Dichhtringe an Ein- und Ausgangswelle, sowie Verteilerwelle erneuern. Das leicht "milchige" Getriebeöl und der Schlamm an den Ablassschrauben deutet aus meiner Sicht auf geringen Wassereintritt ins Getriebe bzw. Verteilergetriebe hin.

WOW DID ALL THIS 40 yrs ago in my tiny London council estate.learnt as I went tought my self welding did everything as the land rover manual rebuilt engine completely gearbox completely in 1990 as the gearbox went in rebuilt the body and at 6 pm headed for Dover Belgium France Germany Austria Italy in December with # meters of snow . Oh to be Jung again 😢😊🎉😂❤ well done keep up the love

Be Well Good Folks Cheers 😇😇👍👍🍻🍻

Hit the seams with a heat gun.  Then setup a tent with a dehumidifier inside with the bulkhead.

Hi Heather, while you were telling your worries about the moisture, I was thinking you could use a electrical heat gun (or a simple hair dryer) to eliminate this residual humidity. Using your torch is also a good solution. As you work in a warm environment I bet this humidity has left and then the primer you sprayed will protect from rust (or corrosion as it's aluminium if I'm right !) I mean there is not a lot of risk of future corrosion. I enjoyed this video. 👍✌

The oil has zero water in it and thats the best sign , as well as no metal . I like that its thick as it should be . We have the issue in the US , that making gear oils extra thin for less drag on the gears has been a disaster . Use proper weights and dont fall into the
Full synthetic trap . You guys can research gear oils , but put back the correct oil it had in
it . Your bulkhead looks super good . Yes try to keep that bulkhead dry as viewers have suggested . Even if it was dry blasted , you need to get your primer on it as soon as you can anyway . You could use your air compressor , and blow the seams as much as possible .

Rover resto ...

That bulkhead is in remarkably good condition for something that old and left to rot. I’d be pleased if it was mine.

11:13 heat gun would be quicker. Just go over the seams and areas where moisture is definitely trapped. Or a hair dryer if you haven’t got a heat gun (basically the same thing but hairdryers just don’t like staying on continuously, so stop and start a lot). And use rust converter before priming and painting.

OUpsss 🤣🤣🥰🥰🙏🙏😇😇👍👍