What I had to keep reminding myself was the shallow depth of field is so different on the bigger sensor, so you have to adjust from the full frame

On the very rare occasions that i get a new camera,  i first use it for a liitle while at all defaults. That lets me find what's not working for me so i can start to make changes that work for me,  rather than for someone else.

Hi Keith, the first thing I always do when l’m about to buy a new camera is download the manual for that camera, that way you get a good idea  if the camera is really what I through I needed !😅

My plan for my Z8 (which I was lucky enough to get last Friday) was to rush out to Dartmoor and take landscape photographs.  However, as is typical with luck when getting a new camera it's been bright blue skies and sunny for a week!  Not to worry, I did get a rare opportunity to photograph a stadium gig (Muse) in Plymouth on Saturday so the Z8 got a bit of a baptism of fire!

Usually it is the default on a new camera, but I first check that the camera is set to NOT release the shutter if no memory card is in the camera! Then I check camera will format, read, & write to the memory card slot(s) in both stills & video, all buttons & wheels work to do something  (and thus not defective switch or wheel), and nothing rattles when camera is shaken. Finally check any IBIS seems to be working.

Then, just as @hedydd2 does, I try to set up wheels and buttons to as closely as possible mimic the positions & functions of wheels and buttons on any other camera body I use regularly (in my case, only 1 other). Then off to make some photographs with attention to try different focusing modes and see at what point highlights are blown out, how far underexposed is still usable, and how long a shutter speed is usable handheld with IBIS versus IBIS + optical stabilization versus optical stabilization alone.

Keith, the first thing I always do on a new camera is to turn off any sound or flashing lights!

Nice video -  have you noticed any battery drain? I see there is an always on screen at the top of the camera . An tips on switching this off etc and reducing battery drain overnight

New camera, especially a new camera system or brand, first think I do is set the dials and buttons to work in similar ways and directions to other cameras I use. The first two weeks of use tend to be a bit of a fiddle while things are fine tuned to the way I prefer them to work, including any customisable Quick menus and one or two Custom memories.
I seldom use manual mode and like to experiment with exposure area priority settings for A, P and S auto exposure priority modes.  I’ve several different brands and models of cameras, some used more than others and some used purely for pleasure and I love the learning experience and the challenge of using and changing to different systems every now and again but reasonably regularly. The process of using a camera is, rightly or wrongly, almost as important to me as the resultant image.

Thank you for another great video, I have a quick question; which EF to GFX adapter are you using?

You do share your wealth of information, thanks. You just need to get your thoughts out in fewer words.

Hi Keith. Congrats to you for adquiring the 100s. I use mine with a few custom settings. I have 4 settings recorded to the C wheel: C1 was set to iso 100; 2 second delay shutter button; 5400 Kevin WB; classic chrome film simulation & mecanic curtain; C2 is for infrared shots: iso 200; Fuji Acros Red film simulation; mechanic curtain; 2 second delay shutter button; 2200 kelvin WB; whereas C3 & C4 replicates the C1 & C2 settings with only one change: electronic curtain. Since I always shoot with my 4 Nikon tilt&shift lenses, I have set to manual focusing with focus peak to red color. And I use a hoodman loupe to put at the LCD back at the camera to magnify the focus peak and focus more precisely. That is useful to get accurate focus and down tilt to get an extended DOF, especially with my 24 & 45 mm lenses. Finally, the function I use most is the “voice memo” to record up to 30 seconds audio, which allows me to record the amount of shift and tilt, especially, if I Bracket the tilt , to get the maximum DOF when applying Downtilt. Hope it helps. Hugs

Curious to know if you’ve tried the Cambo adapters before. Tin House studio’s introduced me to the Cambo Actus and found it to be a very compelling idea, but would love to see your opinion as an architectural photographer

Hi Keith. Fuji cameras are extremely customizable as you have discovered. One other thing I have enjoyed with my GFX100S is the SmallRig L-plate, and grip extender. I use my GFX100S on a tripod much of the time and with the built in Arch Swiss dovetail, the grip comes in quite handy. Not to mention the camera fits my hands a little better with the grip on as well as offering a modest degree of protection to the base of the camera. And unlike Fuji's own accessory plate, the SmallRig plate has an opening for the battery compartment so you basically never need to remove the grip. I don't tend to use the vertical portion of the L plate, but it easily removes leaving just a nice baseplate on the GFX100S body with the built-in Arch-Swiss capability.

I personally used Darrell Young's book for the Olympus EM1 MkII as a starting point as he explains what each setting does and why he chooses the settings he does. Good place to start for me.

Not sure if he does the same for the Fuji GFX100S.

Hi Keith,

First thing I do is a full reset in case I've been sold a return or something that's been demonstrated and someone's had a play.
Next, I set the file type to raw (I have no idea why manufacturers think I'd be impressed if I could fit 9000 pictures on a 32gb card).
Then I assign my preferred shutter/aperture dial layout.
Finally, run out into the garden and take a picture of the bird table so I can blow it up to 400% in Lightroom.

That coffee cup has a high c of g and is making me very nervous. Congratulations on your new camera :)

I have been wondering just what coverage one could get, combining maximum shift side to side (three or five images), up and down (3 or five images), same again on each diagonal, and then stitching them all together in Ps. I was inspired by your video sponsored by ark Cameras and BenQ, and you showed a photo made with a 45 degree shift.

I know that your new toy won't often need to, but with my S1R, I can shoot high res and then combine all the images for a lot of pixels. A lot. And I don't think your GFX will get as many (unless it too does high res).

The 24 tse does work on the camera in normal mode Why 35 mm setting Are the results beter than?

will probably buy one when the next model comes out and its affordable the 50 with lens is a tempting bargain at 3200

Can you explain to me how in-camera cropping is beter than cropping in post? I just don't get it. I thoght I did, a decade or so ago, when I heard Nikon has it and Canon does not.

And then I came to believe that, if I want an APS-C sized image from my 5Ds, I can crop pixels equivalent to 24mmx18 in post. Not only that, but I don't have to chose the center of the larger sensor, I can teke them from anywhere in the imaged area.

If course, I can also crop aby size and shape at aoo, 17.3x13, or 3x1.

In your case, I'd start by cropping the offending pixels off the end. Maybe, I'd make a mask or a mark to help framing using the LCD.

JPEGs only instead of raw plus jpeg been there done that. Beware of out of the box camera manufacturers default setups. JPEGs only, low resolution etc. Why on earth do manufacturers cripple their cameras out of the box. Now I check resolution file size and type before using any new camera.