Why are you reviewing a sponsor’s product as if you’re being objective, and not mentioning it? Totally against YouTube rules, and treating your viewers as if they’re idiots.

In Australia, many of us use fish oil - aka Fisholeum - which is actually a fish-lipid / acetone emulsion.  The acetone keeps the fish oil super runny, allowing it to flow into all the nooks and crannies.  However, the acetone then flashes off, leaving just the fish oil, which eventually skins over and forms an impervious layer.   It stinks.  Quite a lot, actually.  But then it settles and doesn’t smell at all.  We don’t salt our roads here but I do have older Italian cars, so I can attest the fish oil’s efficacy; treated areas do not rust.

I worked on the 'Defender line' for 20 years, about 19 of those welding the right hand number one outrigger (thats the one right behind the right front wheel) if it has one continuous weld both sides along its seam, I welded it lol. Your 90 chassis has a higher carbon content than the previous boneshakers (leaf springs).

In my teens a very long time ago I took a job in a garage, serving fuel mainly, remember those days?! In the workshop there was an old and very skilled (by the standards of the day) mechanic who at every MOT would spray the undersides of the cars with old engine oil then let them stand to drip dry over a graveled area created for the purpose, a lot of old cars used that garage.
I build steel yachts, you need to look at the paint systems they use, owners would get mighty pissed off if rust showed after only a year!

My ocd mate did a full chassis off rebuild. He had his chassis acid dipped and treated then painted it the same silver as the body (blenhiem iirc). He regularly washed and polished the car, even underneath. He had to continually use touch up paints because it still rusted. After 10 years he was using waxoyl and still ended up patching the chassis. He got fed up fighting rust and sold it when the bulkhead started to go around the windscreen and door hinges.

Used Lanoguard for the first time on my 300tdi last summer - previous to that for five years have used Dinitrol. I live in the Highlands and probably the most salted roads in Britain. Rust comes back on both products and the truck needs to be treated annually. Don't know what to use this summer, but I am edging towards Dinitrol. I dont think that the lanoguard application reaches all the box cavities and as we know, they rust from the inside-out. I know after using Dintrol, though,  I haven't needed to do any welding!

Not over impressed with the result after only a year 👍thanks for sharing

If only landrovers were made with galvanised metals

I have tried many products over the years to protect both new and classic cars and Waxoyle has proven to be the most effective for me. For example, we have a 1996 Range Rover and a 1971 long wheel base Land Rover which are used all year round where the roads are salted in winter. Neither show any signs of rust nor have they ever been welded. In fact, the underside of my old Series 3 looks better than under your Defender as it stands now. Applying Waxoyle is a messy process but once the chassis is thoroughly cleaned, panels and chassis cavities spray injected, chassis and underside components sprayed, it is not difficult to maintain with a little diligence. Periodically, and especially with the Land Rovers, I will scrape and clean any patches that may have rubbed or worn off and re-treat with a brush.  So, I certainly recommend trying Waxoyle next time you treat your Defender. Good luck.

Great video and content. As a landrover owner for more years than i can remember is that all these products that work on the visual outside of the chassis is fine but the demise of a chassis is the corrosion inside the chassis, basically rotting from the inside out, due to to water/condensation that cant escape, mud build up, etc. Thats why its so important to try and halt the corrosion inside and apply your preferred wax.

Lanoguard in my opinion isn’t the best product but it’s probably because a lot of people don’t prepare their vehicle properly before they apply it and they don’t realise that it’s something you do have to repeat every few months ( they say 6 months but with the new road Salt/Brine solution they use I found 3 months was better ).
I own a few LandRovers and 1 is under seal the old fashioned way.
1 is Lanoguard.
1 is Waxoyl.

The key to any of them being successful is in the Detail :-
A Proper under Power Wash with a Steam Cleaner ( not cold water ).
Allowed to Dry.
Rust removal and then treatment.
Allowed to Dry.
Finally the Treatment.
So from start to finish about a week and you need somewhere warm and dry for the vehicle to Dry out completely between each phase of the process.

Personally for me:-
Waxoyl is No.1.
Then Underseal.
Lanoguard is last I’m afraid but that’s my opinion 🤷‍♂️.

I thought Lanoguard would last better than that but maybe as some have said a 6 month recoat first time around a good idea. I've just had mine Dinitrol treated again and pleased with how that's protecting my now 20 year old Defender.

I've always found spraying below with waste engine oil, maybe thinned with a little desiel gave the bast results on an already surfaced rusted car.

Old engine oil is the best treatment.

Any product washes off.
We've tried them all.
You have to top up all the sharp edges twice a year depending what conditions the vehicle is exposed to.

We now use a chain grease spray can which is just £6 by Granville.
My 2003 Rover 75 has 210k miles and still clean underneath. 😊

i done mine with dinitrol 2 years ago it looks the same as it did when i put it on mot man said it looks like new lol

the oil off the sheep is called lanolin hence the brand name lanoguard. it smells odd but is great for your skin i know first hand as a New Zealand farmer

I’ve used Lanoguard on my disco and it definitely helped slow the rust.  What is good about lanoguard is you see the corrosion.  Some rust paints coat the area and as you look under you think, that looks good but under the heavy paint your body or chassis is being eaten.

I’m going to give rust bullet a go this week.  My disco is a couple years off 20 so who knows how long more she will last.   Rust bullet if applied correctly looks like a good job.   The one thing about land rovers and early discos was that they are very solid.  Compare the body and chassis to a Land Cruiser and there is no comparison.

Really helpful! It really depends on the conditions you drove it as well. All in all I think it did it’s job and as any home treatment there is some learning curve. Subscribed!

Great video. Thanks for sharing. I’ve been doing my Subaru Forester Sti twice a year since I’ve had it. 6 1/2 years. Other than high traffic areas (arches, braking components), the lanoguard appears to adhere well and prevent further surface rust. I think for a home diy’er with no access to ramps, lanoguard is a pretty good option. Yes. It needs re applying, but when it’s this easy, why not? And we all know, it’s not stopping rust, merely slowing the progress of rust and therefore extending your enjoyment of the vehicle and reducing the need to replace bits so often or look at more drastic repairs. Thanks for sharing.