It’s common for the shift fork to be warn out and need to be replaced
I have brazed them up when I was in a hurry and it worked fine and still working 14 years later 😊

Don't even own this mower- but enjoyed how you went about the trouble shooting process.  Nice job.

Thankyou from Australia. I had this very same problem. Replaced the fork and has been working fine ever since. Good job mate.

Great video. I'm so glad to learn how it works.

This is common when the ooo oil is dryed out and not properly lubricant of the parts
I use 140w gear oil back in them and have had no problems
I’ve even added Lucas hub oil to the 140W to thicken it up which is how I do them all now for 15 years 😊

Big help, thank you

What happened to mine was the shift fork was worn (but no where as bad as yours was) and bent causing the forward/reverse gear cluster to shift under load causing the shaft to wear through the bronze bushing and damaging the lower half housing. Replacement lower and upper housings are available but a little pricey, so what I did was to replace all the bronze bushings and filled the worn area of the housing with a little bit of JB Weld then setting the forward/reverse cluster in place while the JB Weld was still soft then temporarily assemble the housings till the JB Weld cured overnight. The next day I installed a new shifter fork, thrust washers and shaft bushings and filled the all the gears, the differential and all the bushings with "00" grease available at Tractor Supply.

That slop is likely you moved to spot that the moveable clutch rides . Did you check for play in pinion shaft. I have one that grinds only in reverse and and needle bearings of pinion were allowed shaft to move to point wouldn't engage reverse bevel gear.

Life saver

Great video man thank you only had mine for one year and now giving me trouble 😢

Not actually posi-track. It's just the differential design than one wheel goes opposite.  Posi-track actually overides the differential effect.

Can you show the adjustment for the shifter? Appreciated.

I removed the 4 vertical 1/2" bolts/nuts and spacers holding the Dif to the frame, first, then i supported the Diff with floor jack to remove those 2 front facing 1/2" bolts at the Diff/Frame bracket, letting the Diff angle down to give more clearance to remove the 2 forward facing 1/2" bolts. Then unhooked the brake coil spring.
This was an easier method you posted the first i looked at wanted the entire red body stanping removed.

Don’t slam it in foward or you’ll end up pulling the trans and replace gears 😢😢😢
Try adjusting it first when it starts giving trouble or not going in gear properly 😊😊😊

Wow.  Can't believe what would cause that wear on shift fork. Out of adjustment?

Do you know where to get the gear replacements for it i cant find them anywhere. Also awesome video

Mine does this as well changed belts at first but everything seems to be in place but I bet I have the same problem as well can I get the number again I looked on eBay and didn’t see the exact one but I’m gunna tear mine apart

I HAVE ONE THAT MAKE GRINDING NOISE WHEN DRIVEING, TOOK BELTS OFF,PUT OUT OF GEAR AND PUSH IT WOULD LOCK UP THEN GO. WHAT DO YOU THINK

How do you enable the gears so you can move the Troy built pony around?

I just bought a used Troy bilt pony, I was in forward and then went to back it up into my shed and it starting making all kinds of noises and then it just shut off, now I can’t start it but can put it into neutral to move it? Any ideas on what I should look at?