Hello, I would like to give to the friend that cleaned the carbs and to anyone watches this video a few friendly tips cause sometimes some things are not that simple as they look so you can save yourselves from serious troubles.. Sorry for any mistakes but English isn't my language. Ok. The lil tiny thingy you hold at 7.50 which I don't know how you call it in English are made of copper. Copper is a VERY soft metal. When they get blocked (gummed) you NEVER never try to open the tiny whole with a pin like the one you used (IF you did it that way,). If you look close on it it has a number on it. This is the diameter of the tiny whole which you may already know BUT when you try to clean the whole with this pin you used and because the copper is very soft you will clean the whole but you will make the diameter of the whole BIGGER. And trust me even if you make it  slightest bigger  it will be ruined. The carb wont work as it should even if you think it does. The right way is to burn the tiny copper thingy with a torch, burn it really good and then put it in the carb liquid cleaner and use compressed air. It can be so hard gummed sometimes that even this way the lil whole may not open. In this case you buy a new one or you take a metal pin SMALLER than the diameter of the whole(check the tiny number on it and then measure your pin to be sure its smaller, never trust your eyes on this) and try to open the whole using a magnyfing glass to be sure you will stop cleaning when whole is open just the right time the copper will appear in the whole's walls. I think you get it how much important is not to open more the whole. Now about the other tiny thingy you hold at 8.55 and looks like a lil rocket if the nose tip that is made of rubber is hard it needs replacement. When you touch it with your nail it should be soft. If it is hard it may work but its just a matter of time your carb to be overfluded cause this stops the fuel to come in the card constantly when engine don't need so much fuel. They work exactly like the flush in the toilet. Also a basic check to all 3 carbs before you close the under caps (the cap that is the lil tiny rocket in) you must hold the carb on your hand in straight position up and blow air softly with your mouth in the fuel intake of the carb and push gently up the lil black flotter and then let it drop down softly while you blow air and see in what position they block the fuel coming in the carb. All 3 carbs must close and open this way in same degrees. If you search in internet or if you call Honda in your area they will tell you the exact degrees this black round plastic flotters should be when you have the carb upside down. Even if you don't know the degrees is important at least all to be the same. To check this just put all the 3 carbs on the table upside down and check carefully all the 3 black plastic flotters to be on the same level. If they are not you must press up or down with a small flat screwdriver the lil tiny metal plate the lil rocket is attached on so all the 3 to be in same level. When finish double check the lil rocket and the floter works smoothly as you did.  Another thing is about gaskets. Even if you manage to take them out without to brake them they need replacement cause they don't seal good after the first tightening . You will notice they are pressed-squized if you look at them good and you will see also the shape of the metal on them they come in contact with and seal. They may not be the central "head" of the engine gasket that always needs replacement if you take the "head" off but after all the work you do why to risk licking fuel again. A rule is to change the whole set of gaskets when you do works like this. The same goes with the rubber rings on the carb cap (the one that has the black flotters in it). Make sure they are not squeezed down. And after aaaall this work you must certenly make a carb adjustment cause 100% your carbs will need it after the cleaning cause many wholes opened in the main body of the carb and to other many thingies if you want your engine to work properly, to be efficient and not use more fuel than it needs. Its very easy to adjust the 3 of them while the engine work with the help of 3 organs I don't know how you call them. You can check in youtube how to do it, sorry but my English don't help me to explain this procedure lol. I hope I didn't make your heads dizzy but sometimes things are not that simple or else we all would be mechanics lol. I wouldn't really write all those stuff here but when you are at the sea you must be as much safe as you can. It can save your life. Having a lick of fuel that can cause fire in the boat is one of the most scary and dangerous situations in the sea.  You are not in land to lock the car and leave if you face a problem. I wish you all safe seas. Have fun and keep it safe :)

(Not from my wife, but she appreciates getting back on the boat more than I do, after watching this) Excellent tutorial - exactly what was needed to do my 4 carb Honda 90.  Really appreciate your very clear, simple approach to disassembly, cleaning and reassembly.  Thanks so much!

Meticulously described which is perfect for a first-timer.  That's "how to" do a "how to video"  Thanks.  I got a honda 20 and a honda 50, which both need carb work and now I'm confident with this video as a guide.

Appreciate the video. FYI the round thing covered with corrosion & salt that (you mentioned was from florida salt and noted with red letters 'corrosion-------> ???') is called an anode, or a sacrificial anode, aka a 'zinc' which is a piece of metal (zinc) that sacrifices itself through galvanic action/ electrolysis to save more important metals from corrosion, in this case the carbs/manifold.  Once they are 2/3 eaten away they should be replaced which will save the more important metal parts of a boat or its motor and should be cleaned/checked regularly.  There are many 'zincs' in most outboards.  If not replaced the metal they are meant to protect will disintegrate rapidly especially near salt.

Sir.  Thank you for showing me the details of cleaning this carb.  At minute 7 you solved my problem on a Honda 4 stroke outboard motor that has not run in this century.  I did everything else but missed these 2 brass screws....sure enough full of gunk.  Cleaned and first pull was up and running.  Awesome!

Just done a full carby clean on a 90hp thanks to your video clip. Just 4 instead of 5 cylinders. THose blocks in the water jacket are like the ones on the bottom of the peg. Designed to attract all the electrolysis. Thanks again

Ok, I searched and found this video and after taking advice (and pictures of the linkages...don't skip that atep!) my motor is now running like a champ!  Well done and thanks... Saved me a $500 repair bill.

Info Hungry: Your welcome.  Glad it helped.  I did it in the format I did because every time I watch Youtube to fix something of my own, there are always large assuming gaps.  Meaning parts that should not have been looked over as "how and I suppose to have known that".  But every once in awhile, I come across a video that just hits the spot and my project got done quickly, and correctly.  Who doesn't like that? Anyhow, good luck in your fix.....

Excellent video.  Helps me a lot to see someone actually do it.  Great job.

Thanks for doing this video. Its very helpful. I live in Hong Kong. I have BF35A. Almost 20yrs old. Also have carb problem. Now I can fix the problem. Great help. Thanks !!!

Very good instructional video.  I've just rebuilt a set of BF90 carbs and was lucky to have the proper Honda carb manual - VERY useful to have if you can get it, but if I didn't have that, your video would have been a huge help.  What I would recommend is setting up the carb sync every time you've rebuilt or removed/replaced carbs.  A tiny adjustment can make a huge difference to smooth running so it's worth doing.  Cheers!

Very helpful video. I just bought a used 75 Honda OB, replaced the fuel filter, new plugs, oil but now I know what to expect when I tackle carbs. Thank you!

Thanks a ton for posting this!  I've cleaned a ton of carbs, but never on a Honda outboard.  I need to clean my 1999 50HP, which looks almost identical to your 30HP,  and your video is going to save me a ton of time.  I was going to take the carbs off one at a time, but I can see clearly that taking the whole thing off at once is the way to go.  Great job with the organization too.

Comments: You can also blow compressed air through the little holes after the carb cleaner, that often helps to get the junk out.  7:49 that is a jet.  10:12, that looks like a sacrificial anode.  When you're flushing, if you use that Honda flush adapter be sure to cover the water inlets with tape, otherwise you're not getting any water into the pump (notice you had no indicator stream).  Muffs work great on these motors, you just have to be sure to have the hose full blast.  You'll get a very strong indicator stream when the pump is getting adequate water.  Thanks again for posting!

Great Lesson!  Looks like carbs are the same as the 70's when I used to fix lawnmowers.  Thanks

Man it was a great help. Getting ready to clean mine. Thanks for the video. Looks just like the 50hp motor

Excellent instructional video, and as 'heetreet' says - better than all the completely useless pro videos that 'explain' stuff like we're all mechanical engineers.

Man, you should patent your tutorial approach. Best I've seen.

Like!

Awesome job, this what I need to do to my 25hp 4 stroke Honda

Thanks for the informative video. I've got a 30 HP Honda and was having trouble with a sputtering engine. Thought it might be the carburetors but they were clean. Looks like some sediment clogging the manifold. Cleaned it up and it seems to be working. Your video made for an easy job of locating and diagnosing the problem. Thanks again.

Thank you for this.  I like the idea of laying out the parts from the outside in.

Nice job now I have ideas how take care my carburetors thank you for sharing