I would like to know if you can CONVERT this Medium-Bluer Green War Tank in a Volvo D10A Diesel Engined WW2 Tanks please?

I SAID THAT I AM Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very SORRY For REPEATING MYSELF GUYS? Feature ON THIS INTERESTING TYPE OF PROJECT.. Will you be ABLE TO CONVERT And REPAINT THIS War Tank IN A Darker Orangey-Yellow, Medium Light-Blue and Burgundy and then RE-CHARGE THE ORIGINAL ENGINE INTO an FULLY PROPER DIESEL POWERED Leyland TL11, GARDNER 8L3/8LXCT/8LXB/6L3B/6LXC, CUMMINS L10, Leyland 680, Scania N112, CUMMINS N14, Volvo D10A Engined WW2 Tank, please?

I am in the latter stages of completing my Churchill, how I wished that I had seen this earlier! I didn't realise how difficult the suspension would be. ATM I have the tracks to put on, then attach the sides to the body of the tank. Trying to be professional about it, I was using tweezers to hold the bow machine gunners hatch. Without any kind of indication, the tweezers just clicked and the hatch was off into space! The suspension wheels are a nightmare, I kept dropping them and once I had finished all the wheels, one decided to drop off, gone forever! Fortunately or unfortunately I have two more to make, so I should have it right by then!

Oh gawd yes. The nightmare that was/is the suspension.

Useful tip-the axles line up with the wheels on the sprue, greatly easing the process.

Thanks. I follow a few scale model channels but I am inspired by the results you get from fairly simple techniques.

I hated those rubber ‘glue-together’ tracks that used to come with the older kits, I could never get them to stick together properly, must admit I never thought about just sticking them just inside the track guards because the rest of the upper track couldn’t be seem, as an aside those weren’t stowage boxes fitted to the side of the hull, I believe they’re the air intakes for the engine.

Remember building this one in the sixties I'd be around nine years old

Looks great 9:36

私の子供の頃からあるキットです
ヴィンテージキットに光をあてて下さるこのチャンネル大好きです🍀
転輪が大変だったでしょう
キャタピラその手があったのか。見えないところはカットする❗️目から鱗です
いつもながら素晴らしい👍️
ありがとうございました🙇

I would like to know if you can CONVERT ALL OF THESE Darker Orangey-Red War Tanks INTO a GARDNER 8LXCT Diesel Engined WW2 Tanks Pretty PLEASE..

I SAID THAT I AM Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very SORRY For REPEATING MYSELF GUYS? Feature ON THIS INTERESTING TYPE OF PROJECT.. Will you be ABLE TO CONVERT And REPAINT THIS War Tank IN A Medium Light-Blue and Darker Orangey-Red and then RE-CHARGE THE ORIGINAL ENGINE INTO an FULLY PROPER DIESEL POWERED Leyland TL11, GARDNER LG1200/8LXCT/8L3/6L3B/6LXC, CUMMINS L10, Volvo D10A/B10M Engined WW2 Tank, please?

Airfix Vintage Classics Churchills, great at making you scream cry and just unhappy until you finish. But in the end it's a good looking model.

This was a helpful tutorial and I learned quite a lot from it. I think the color looks good and the weathering gives it a nice used look to it. Thanks for sharing this.

Nice build!  
I always felt the detail looked a bit soft on the hull of this kit with several sink marks, and flat areas that aren't quite flat.  I suspect the cooling time was too short resulting in the parts still being really hot and soft when ejected out of the injection molding machine rather than setting hard whilst still in the mould.  I worked an injection molder in a factory in my teens (not Airfix).  The boss was always coming around shortening the cooling time setting (quicker cooling means more mouldngs per hour, means more money) then the quality control guy would turn up, swear and lengthen the cooling time.  Modern Airfix kits are really sharp so obviously the parts have hardened fully before being ejected, I do wonder if the old classic kits might be sharper if they just increased the cooling times (but then they'd cost more to make).  Back in the day, they also used to crank up the injection pressure so that cooler melted plastic would still fill the mould (cooler melted plastic is more viscous than a really hot melt) again to reduce the cooling time.  The higher pressure forced the two mold halves very slightly apart, and melted plastic ran into the gaps, and that's why there's so much flash.  I do wonder if the Vintage Classic kits are still being moulded on 1960s era moulding machines using the same temperature, pressure and cooling times settings?  It would explain a lot!

Turned out quite well. I may have one of these still in the stash. I need to dig through again.

Nice one..👍
If and when I tackle this kit, I'm going to try and match the wheels to the axles whilst they're still attached to the sprue. It worked for me on the Matilda Hedgehog.

First tank model i ever build! Great video!

I SAID THAT I AM Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very Very SORRY For REPEATING MYSELF GUYS? Feature ON THIS INTERESTING TYPE OF PROJECT. Will you be ABLE TO CONVERT And REPAINT THIS War Tank IN A Darker Orangey-Yellow and then RE-CHARGE THE ORIGINAL ENGINE INTO an FULLY PROPER DIESEL POWERED LISTER HP16/HB16/JK16/HK16/HR16, GARDNER 8LXB/8L3/6L3B/8LXCT/6LX/6LXC Engined War Tank please?

Great film. Like you, i built this one as a lad - and still recall the frustration of all those wheels (probably without a decent knife and with far less patience than now).