When replacing the B+ capacitor, desolder the two pads that are capped with solder closest to the hole and the new capacitor legs will snap in (notice the curled shape of them, it holds firmly in place) and you can solder them directly to the pads. The other holes can be filled with solder. The little fuse is available with the legs attached. My first G07 capkit and rebuild had parts from Bob Roberts and he sold the fuses that had the pigtails. I started to buy those fuses from Arcade Shop after Bob closed for a while. It’s nice to see the horiz/vert pot mod working. I’ve been tempted to try it for the extra fine tuning that the Wells Gardner chassis were built with. The G07 is still one of my favorite chassis to repair. Beware of the tantalum capacitor when you are trouble shooting; check it for a short as part of the multimeter test. They fail to a dead short just like they do so often on Midway games. As for the video signal, I made my TPG plug so that the RGB is in one 3 position Molex plug and GHV in another Molex 3 position plug, that lets me use almost every variation of positive or negative sync on G07 and other monitors. If I need to combine the sync, I insert a U shaped jumper (made from a capacitor leg clipping) into one end of the sync plug and the signals will be shared. I also made other adapters for the Sanyo EZ chassis plugs and the SEGA / Nanao since they are both inverted color and have odd pinout orders. There are many methods to testing, repairing and adjusting monitors, so I really enjoy watching you work and listening to your commentary. It helps me feel more comfortable in my own methods and learn new tricks that I hadn’t learned or thought of myself. Another SOLID video, Mike! Nicely done, as usual. I was almost disappointed that you didn’t catch a G07 flyback explosion on video. If you think the start up hum is scary, just wait til a flyback blows up. HAHAHA! My first one blew up at 2am, inside my enclosed trailer while I was desperately trying to get my Centipede ready for a local game convention. I don’t know if it woke the neighbors but my ears were ringing for a long time.

I did not know about F901 testing good in circuit, yet being blown!   Learned something new!  Great systematic approach to going thru the chassis.  It sure feels good to watch them come to life again!  Thanks for sharing it.

The parts list addition is a godsend. Thank you!!

Flippin awesome repair sir, phenomenal tutorial !

Cool monitor.

Love these videos, this was great.

Awesome video!

Thanks Mike this is very helpful.

Well that was a marathon a video - well done - interesting about measuring the fuses, first time ever to never trust a measurement

Wow.  That's bizarre about f901 ringing good on continuity mode in circuit. I never knew that.

Nice work, my friends got one of these chassis in his Journey cab always having issues with it.

You helped me fixed my 1st go7 Galaga last night. Hours of head-scratching to learn here, that F901 fuse cant be tested in circuit! Ugh😅Thank you.

You working on any more of these to show us some troubleshooting in the near future? I think a lot of us enjoyed this one

What was the pots for the V and h centers.

Wow it's like new now the pods an stuff thay look better than old .mine fell out

Awesome work..  You make it look easy!    When you adjusted the yoke, is there danger in touching anything there?  I've always been scared to do that hot, so I always shut it down, discharge the monitor, move the yoke blind, and try again.  It obviously would be more efficient to do it hot like you did, but I'm not sure what is safe and what is not!!

Hey Mike... Quick question. I've always been a little nervous adjusting the yolk when it's crooked while the monitor is on. What are you holding on to to move it while the monitor is still on? And I've always wondered, really in all reality, can you get zapped touching any part of the neck or yolk etc or is it only when your hand is by the anode? I noticed you have your hand back there a lot and always thought you were pretty brave doing that LOL.

I replaced the flyback on my g07-cbo. I get an Arc under the flyback area when I power up. I was told it may be the white wire on the flyback arcing because the insulation issn't good. Any help?

Hello, is there any way I could send you my G07 for repair?

Excellent work as always. On 1:02:08, can you go in detail about how you worked on the convergence there? It was an adjustment of the convergence rings? Or something else?