As an electrical engineer, I like your explanation regarding why a larger inductor means lower current.

For those who like equations, when a voltage is first applied across an inductor, the current at time t is equal to 1/L multiplied by the integral of voltage over time. (L is the inductance). That 1/L term in front of the integral means the current builds up slower when L is larger.

Of course you Clive already said that in a shorter and more intuitive way when you said “…the higher inductance means the current flows into it slower…”.  I like the way you often make complex concepts easy to understand, even for those without an engineering background.

"The switch you bypass to make it actually work outside" I do not know what they make those switches out of but they rust instantly.

So glad you provide a valid (ie butch) reason why I need to buy nail varnish! 💅

It's good to hear someone refer to "solder" and not "sodder"!

You mention the music chip driving the LED.  We use a stage fire effect where a vacuum tube Radio drives a lightbulb in place of a speaker, creating the flicker. Works great for a 1950's stage effect!

I know you do what a good boy does and she is thankful. Keep up the good work.

As mentioned before, in the case of the exposed solar cells, Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure has always proved a very reliable (and durable) solution.  Designed for the marine environment, so for these far more gentle applications, the repair is permanent. The simplicity of the 'innards' of these lights means considerable opportunity for modification, esp. in terms of LED choice and inductor rating.  I suspect these may have been on sale, since in the UK at least, the shorter days are fast approaching, with reduced sunshine to drive the cell charging too!

I make my own circuits and garden lights, using basic jars but also other types of fancy lights.  While my store bought garden lights last maybe 2 years until corrosion kills them, my own last years.  I've had 2 going for the last 5 years, no leaks, no issues.  But making them waterproof is difficult.  Even the best glues degrade under the sun.  I've coated the circuit boards with liquid rubber.  Only thing that keeps working it seems.

You can do fun things with these cheap gardenlight things and you can make it better if you want. Some idea I did,  I bought several solar lights (looking like a studio light) and instead of putting them into the ground, I put them on the wall under a gutter instead (a little more protection to rain). Also I did some mods like putting all of the batteries in parallel with use of low resistance installation wire (and added an extra high capacity battery inside the shed) and put some layers of high quality varnish over the solar cells (really helps) and body. I use this as security lights, they are not bright but there is some light in the garden, it is bright enough to see somebody walking. Much better than using the irritating flood light solutions for example.  This 'system' is also self regulating, it turns on at twilight/night and shuts off at daylight and does not cost energy, perfect. No need for a timer, scheduler or any other attention. Very nice and works already flawless for almost 3 years now.

Other things you can do with these circuits is using it as a digital light detector for a microcontroller or as a 'switch' for something else. They can produce a simple reliable high and low state.

Obviously these manufacturers love it how you would buy new ones every one/two years. Also at this point I think those setups with a small dedicated solar panel with the string of bulbs is the better choice.

Bravo Clive!  🖖🏼👍🏼 Petaluma, CA  USA

I've been buying a pair of dollar-store solar stake lights every year to mark my driveway during the winter months. I discovered they don't last past the season because they have AAA NiCd batteries in them. I replaced them with NiMH batteries last year, and they're still working.

I like the one with the fairy lights inside it looks quite nice.

I bought some red tulip garden lights a while ago.
They used white LED's filtered through the red plastic.
I didn't like like the color of the light, so I replaced them with clear red LED's
Not only did the color improve a lot, but also the brightness.

Another interesting way to protect the solar cell might be by putting a thin layer of liquid epoxy over it.

I like the black one that looks like a lamp shade.    I didn't know about that tape, so thank you for mentioning it.  I'm gonna look for it on amazon.

Using Vaseline petroleum jelly to improve water resistance is probably OK, but to be extra safe use dielectric grease instead. I've heard Vaseline can be slightly conductive in some situations (as in higher voltages). And instead of clear nail varnish, maybe try "Triple Thick Clear Glaze" (from a spray can). Not sure about global availability, but it's readily available in hobby and craft shops in the USA.

Also it's been a long time since you've done a soldering kit and I would love to see one done cuz it's just so relaxing I know you're busy

The glass substrate amorphous solar panels are sealed in, so water won't go around them. The glue seals out the electrical contacts quite well. And these cells use soft glass as a substrate, that won't degrade with UV, while it blocks it so it won't damage the active cells either (more than it degrades on its own even when covered)

Thank you for the long video Clive. 20 minutes is perfect to watch while eating dinner. I even had fish and chips today funnily enough :D Loving watching you tinker and hack cheap stuff to make it more usable!