Thanks for the tips as always. Folks, ventilation is Very important and should be the first thing set up.. The gas and metal fumes being put off are toxic. Get them sucked up and out of your shop. Stay healthy, keep creating! Peace! 😀

White paste fluxes like this one seem to be available all over the world, and called by many different names. I live in the continental US, and one that very readily available here is called Handy Flux. Works great on copper, brass, and even silver. But the yellow liquid fluxes such as Batterns, and MyT Flux work best on silver.

I'm sure this is the same flux used for silver soldering silver and gold. Home-made version is 3 Boric acid 2 Borax 2 Trisodium phosphate I don't bother to make a paste out of it. Mine is thin as water and still works fine. Works fine for copper, brass, and silver and one to the other. Differences in temperature for the different metals makes it more difficult than silver and gold.

I use brass and copper for all my projects. I use the same batterns flux i used as a jeweler apprentice. In school we used harris stay silv flux for big pieces

I came here to find out how to work in brass because I want to make some crazy art pieces just like you said it would be unpractical to make some bizarre looking art jewelry out of silver. Was so happy to hear others had the same notion. I use grifflux on brass so far and it has worked. I also learned to soak my brass in peroxide/vinegar solution to get the copper off after soldering.

I've done a lot of soldering brass, and white paste (Handy Flux brand here) always works well. Copper too. Anything really, except aluminum which is a whole other subject.

I always use Borax to solder brass and medium silver solder, works perfectly fine - I think it does take time adjusting to, especially if you're used to silver and gold. Thank you for sharing! :)

For anyone wondering: the brand is SeaForce or シーフォース if you want to try your luck at looking it up in Japanese :D

The white powder is Borax, any welding supplier stocks it, Borax is a high temp brazing flux. Brass will soft solder with Zink chloride, and BOC should stock it.

Before brazing (silver soldering), make sure the joint metals are very clean and free of any oils.

The real no-brainer way to silver solder brass is with a silver solder paste which includes the flux (like Muggyweld SSQ-6 56% Silver Solder Paste, this is just one example there are many different companies making a similar product). This is such a no-brainer that in production the brass is held together with a jig, the past is robotically applied (usually as a very poorly placed single blob), several heat flames from several directions attempt to evenly heat the assembly, the heat is not varied just held constant for a set amount of time, the solder goes molten and the flux carries it around the joint.

The assembly is then allowed to cool slightly, then it is quenched, water + usually an additive, and done. The solder paste is called solder paste but the heat sources are hot sources like oxyacetylene (hotter than a propane torch). If the heat source is a little high it just means you need to heat the assembly for a shorter amount of time, move the heat around quickly to evenly heat the part, and remove the heat when the solder flows. The high heat is to expedite the process.

If you use the needle paste applicator and you have a long straight joint, you can place a very small even paste fillet along the joint, Then when the solder goes molten the soldering footprint is very consistent and the joint looks very nice and clean.

As you mentioned in the video, the quest to joint brass attractively is in finding the best flux for the application. A product like Muggyweld SSF-6 High Strength 56% Silver Solder Rod, has the flux coating the silver solder rod. So, you heat the flux to melt around the joint then keep heating until the silver solder flows you only need to add a small amount of solder because it will flow very quickly to fill the joint evenly.

Didn’t mention what kind of solder??? Silver?   Brass sheet? Thanks

Possible to show up close what the flux container looked like ? Flashing it back and forth was uninspiring.

Thanks for doing the research!    I am making my Boss a ring out of  bathroom keys from our last office (  yes there is a story)   being able to solder things together is a game changer.

You seemed to have figured it out, but if this helps you or anyone else, a good flux for plumbing seems to do the trick for me.  Get it at any hardware/ plumbing/ refrigeration supply house.  Also some soft solder, I use 95/5 (tin/silver) and Ive had no issues even bonding brass to stainless and mild steel!  Worth a try and you dont have to wait for it to be shipped to you hahah.  Best of luck in everyones projects!

I used to be a solder machine technician in a factory, and we only ever used two types of flux - ZNC 4030 for non-medical applications and Stannol WF-300S for medical applications. Do note that if you use znc 4030 it will produce a clean join but it is extremely aggressive and will cause reddening if you use more than a drop or overheat it

Believe me, I know what it's like trying to work with an inferior camera.
I was worried when you were breathing without a ventilator.  
I'm trying to repair a decorative brass fixture on an antique iron  bed frame.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Take care of yourself.

First watch …. I like the way you validate and work your tools, simple quick and to the point..nothing fancy but more like adaptive to function

Really helpful.  Appreciate the nuances in your explanations too.

what were you using for the weld silver solder ?
Thanks

Thx!