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How to SPRUE CAST Your Warhammer 40k Miniatures (DIY Casting Tutorial)

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Don't BIN those Warhammer 40k sprues but turn them into AWESOME Warhammer 40k Terrain, Vehicles and Miniatures!!!

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20 Comments

@ge2719 1 year ago

11:00 a good trick is to put a bit of the coloured dyes you have into one part, mix it in, then you can tell when its fully mixed into the hardener. Even if youre going to paint them afterwards it wont matter.

@clockworkpanda8 1 year ago

This way when GW raids you, you can destroy the molds 😂

@kolosa5621 1 year ago

You could try using a vibrating massager to get the bubbles out of the molds.

@intzbk1 1 year ago

Years ago I got one of the old Saurus Start Collecting and for the big dinosaur they give you an option to make two but only give you one body. There was an article way back when about using the box to make characters and the like and I used oymaru and milliput to make another body so I got two big dinosaurs from the one box. I'm definitely going to try this microwaveable mold stuff!

@rhvette 1 year ago

You can get a thinner, more pourable sprue goo if you use ethyl acetate. It's commonly sold as MEK substitute. That should help alleviate the porosity issues. Also, GSW mentions that Flexi Mold can be used to make two-part molds to make things like those big Chaos Knight shoulder panels. Simply coat the surfaces of the first mold with release agent (they recommend their own brand of special petroleum jelly, but I suspect regular Vaseline works just as good) and chill before pouring the second half of the mold over it. It's probably a good idea to carve some registration marks into the first mold before casting the second to ensure repeatable alignment.

@JB-yr6qt 1 year ago

With the resin and flexi-mold liquid, you can use a straight bit of sprue held against the lip as you pour for a guide to make it pour better. Any straight smooth thing will do, be it sprue, a spatula, a straw, whatever. Guides the pour so it's less messy and also helps reduce bubbles if those were giving you issues.

@JMACCs_MiddleEarth 1 year ago

Spreeeww gooooo is a game changer

@jesse-got-dolphins-into-heaven 1 year ago

This is awesome. You may have solved my problem with needing legs and torsos

@newworldempire 1 year ago

You've been inspiring me with your experiments just to get started again on whatever project I can.

@1krani 1 year ago

Food for thought: if you want to avoid all those air holes in the sprue recasts, try "painting" the inside of each mold with a thin coating of resin or the like before pressing the sprue goo into it. Hopefully, the resin will take longer to set and thus be draw into the air holes as the acetone evaporates out of the sprue goo.

Gotta get me some of that Flexi-mold, though. Been looking for a silicone replacement ever since the last stuff I used melted through its own bottle.

@leechefski 1 year ago

I'm surprised the epoxy resin didn't melt the flexi-mold, as it gets quite hot when it cures.

@mitonetic 1 year ago

Have you tried putting some acetone in the mold first before then putting your goo in? It might help to stop some of those bubbles. You'd probably need to overfill and then press with a heavy weight after a couple of minutes too.

@christophk.3085 1 year ago

When you press the Goo into the mold , the mold flexes a lot, maybe you can stiffen it more by keeping it in Legoframe to get en even more crisp cast?

@miniarefuntopaint 1 year ago

Those circle discs would make excellent bases if they're in the right size.

@mrwabbit9576 1 year ago

Those resin ones were really impressive.

@cobracommander6606 1 year ago

Acetone is also one of several chemicals used to make plastic glue.

@minisarefuntopaint 1 year ago

Interesting methods you're developing. I'm really enjoying your sprue series. And I did use a piece of sprue in a base I made a few days ago... you're catching.

@lowlygrinder2977 1 year ago

Those bubbles could easily be fixed with milliput or green stuff, especially since it's flat areas, also maybe drilling holes in the mold could help to get the air out?

@CoryAnthony-vy4fl 5 months ago

I just Composimold.
It’s reusable. All you do is heat it up in the microwave until it turns from a solid to a liquid. And then you set whatever you want to make a mold out of up. And you just pour the composimold and that’s it. You just have to let it dry. Which only takes 20 minutes tops.
The best part about composimold is.
Yes it can be messy. But it dosnt stick to surfaces. I have got some on the table top, and it just peeled right off. I’ve even gotten some on shirts and shorts. And it just peeled right off.
I highly recommend Composimold.