I had to look through a ton of compensator videos looking for the spring sequence. When I removed mine I had them stacked the way they would go back in. With limited workspace the stack got knocked over. Your cereal bowl analogy explained the sequence immediately. Thank you.

I wish all videos were this informative and clear and concise! Thank you

2000 miles away from home at Sturgis  84th Rally  Had a terrible noise in what sounded like my transmission.  Looked up noise and luckily found Lyle's Video with how to fix my problem. I showed up the next morning and they took care  of it right away 3 hours later I was back on the road. couldn't have been happier great price too.  was able to stay and ride for another week before heading back home.  Bike feels better then ever.  
Thank you

The timkens have a preload from the factory . It is important to torque back to specs when reassembling for bearing longevity. Ive watched people use an impact and overtorque the sprocket shaft bolt . Soon after they developed crank movement from timkens being hammered . I mean if you pull pusdhrods from the valve train you dont mix them up. Your bearings especially after run in are happiest running the preload torque spec.

Lyle, you helped me when my CVO performance bagger failed on my way to SD.  You were spot on , the back cylinder lost compression when the top of the HD piston came apart. Since I have rebuilt the entire engine from top to bottom.  I am pushing 163 HP and 159 Torque.  Again thanks for the help and good to see your videos'.

For those asking about a possible alignment issue, it has been a standard practice for years to use a second, small outer spring run in tandem with the current small spring (not stacked in opposition). As Lyle states, the oem spring is 0.067 and his spring is 0.072, a difference of 0.005. I don't see 0.005 causing an issue. He explains that his spring has a 18* bevel and oem is 8* bevel. His spring is stronger and applies more pressure against the ramp but once installed is still only 0.005 thicker than stock. Understand that companies that make the stronger comp ramps will tell you to add a shim to address noise that may be incurred. I have asked Lyle to reply and address the questions as I'm sure he can explain it better than me but this should give some explanation.

About time I found a video that doesn't make me panic...2009 street glide here and thank you so much

Thank you for sharing your wisdom.  I purchased a 2010 96 ci heritage.  40,000. My Compensator just started making the clunk. I will be calling for the spring. Appreciate you for sharing this video.
Dan.

Great video. Great guy to chat with on the phone and his Bride was great as well. Would love to stop in and meet them one day. Order a spring from him yesterday. 🤙🏽

On my 103 TC Ultra limited with some 45.000 miles on it, The big Disk with the Hex and sprocket insert broke. I don´t even have more power, than how it was originally sold.
Yet I think Harley Davidson quality is better, than it was back when the first Evos got delivered or even before.

be sure to replace the compensator ramp with an S&S because they break out of nowhere. I had to replace mine.

A huge thanks to Lyle and this product. Although I had my compensator replaced with the S.E. compensator on my '09 Road King several years ago, about a year ago I started hearing a clunking noise from my primary when I'd let out the clutch, I thought it might be the clutch basket going out (over 70k miles), so I replaced it, and it was marginally better, but the clunking noise was still prevalent and after watching this video, I thought maybe this would help, and man did it, clutch engagement & acceleration is so much smoother and linear, I also noticed that when I begin to decelerate and pull in the clutch, the engine feels smoother, the engine used to shutter/shake a bit upon deceleration. A rather big gain for the price, I installed the part myself, so I didn't incur any labor costs, just the cost of the part, the primary oil & gasket. A huge thumbs up. 👍

Great video. One thing I found interesting is that you said, "I've seen the good and the bad. These M8s are the good. My hat's off to Harley." Yet, You've replaced practically everything on it that Harley built. Kinda confusing.🤣🤣🤣🤣

Great tip for compensator noise. Two things I don't understand, you obviously own a torque wrennch. Why not use it? I also cringe when I see lock tite go on over top of old lock tite. You gotta clean those threads, it's not that hard!

** Lyle, there is no link from which to order and the reference to Speed pros brings me to an automotive site.  A lot of the comments below are facing the same issue.

Lyle is the best mechanic to work on my bike. Took care of me two years ago during Sturgis rally. Completely sold me on using ATF in my primary. Incredible difference.

So I recently bought a 2008 Electra Glide with 10,000 miles, all original, never been opened, and no current issues, are you saying I should go ahead and replace that outer spring for preventive maintenance?

QUESTION???? I installed the fueling spring just as you did, followed all torque specs, first ride to gas station,shut it off, gassed up, upon restart it did the same kick back as before, any suggestions???

thought red loctite was for securing bolts that would be permanent.

Great video, Thanks I absolutely think my 2017 M8 on a ultra limited is the best Harley motor I have ever owned and I have owned pan heads thru twin cams and still own a  1986 FXSTC Evo. I already did a cam chest kit from S&S and I may do the manual primary chain tensioner later on. I just hope there isn't a excessive crank run out from the factory I never checked that, Not sure I like pressed cranks from the factory anyways.