If you haven’t treated your car underneath yet, I’d strongly recommend doing it. A relatively simple preventative job like this could save you a huge amount of money in repairs later on.
Thanks to everyone who recommended different rust protection products for the car. I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions!

1. Get car HIGHER to allow easy access . Use a strong fan to blow the dust away from you . . Use a grinder with different wire cups or flap wheels

отличное видео 📹

Very interesting ✅

Orsome Pal... thank you again... Will sort that...❤

Bilt Hamber do some great products , I use their snow foam

I  been to a trucking washing place.
For 84 dollars, they steam my land rover from underneath.
Great job .

These are aftermarket side steps not original, and they rust fast but tend to last at least few years. They are not so expensive so you can just replace them. Good job on rust protection.

Plenty of good quality plastic ramps are available on various online retail  stores.  Two makes a big difference but four lifts the car way higher and makes everything relatively easy.   Problem with the tank guard is that there is not enough room to get a cavity pipe and nozzle in to spray wax in the cavity and it rusts from the inside outwards.
I prefer to use UB and S50 product from their 600ml aerosols, even though this is more expensive. It’s just so much more convenient and the S50 cavity wax comes with very effective extension pipes and 360 degree spray nozzle for complete coverage.  I would wax all black  guards, brackets and suspension subframes including brake pipes and pipes under the body. I like to do this on new cars or certainly before they get too dirty and rusty, at the latest before their third birthday.  I don’t apply a second coat as the first gives sufficient coverage.  Doing it to protect the paint before rust starts means that generally a second  full treatment is seldom necessary until about the fifth year after the first.  I’ve been doing this since 1984 and kept vehicles like my LR 110 and Land Cruiser 100 for 22 years each with no significant rust on their chassis at the end. I did fit fabricated mud shields to the rear wheel arches of the 110 to stop muck congregating and rusting the rear waxed crossmembers and they were still as new when the truck was scrapped after 22 years of hard farm work with heaps of corrosive cow muck coating everything for most of the year.

There's an extended mode on the suspension. Raise it to its highest setting. Place an axle stand touching the jacking point. Lower the suspension and it will go into extended mode giving about another 100mm of height. You can do it again for super extended mode but it wont give you much more.

Use bilthamber stuff on my trucks to coat the chassis etc, over something like Lanoguard which is much more expensive now anyway. Every product Bilt hammer does is excellent quality and top notch.
Just a thought, but why didn’t you wipe some of the black wax onto the underside of the steps or at least spray some stone chip on them just to add a bit of extra protection. At the end you said you had wax left over.

the bithamber products are out of stock .

Great video as usual, and washing of the loose rust from the "soon to be treated area" is the best way remove the loose rust. There are 3 reasons, First, the water will flow into all the nooks and crannies and wash  the rust from those areas (and create more oxidization/rust) that are difficult to reach,  Second, and this is the most important reason. cleaning the item with a wire brush will, in some areas, completely remove all of the rust leaving bare metal, rust converter is a chemical process that converts rust to something much harder and stronger and that process need rust and washing with water will help create a thin oxidization layer, Third, those bare metal areas can and do trap moisture, when rust converter is applied to bare metal the rust converter is unable to covert that bare metal into a bonded layer, it traps moisture and you get flash rusting. If that makes sense.  Any way the car is 10years old and any thing you do now is only going to help and give you piece of mind again great video and well done for taking on the challenge (also there are a load of youtube videos on the process of rust conversion which are very cool)

where did you buy the materials from ?

Excellent video. Can we see what it looks like a couple of months after application. I always thought that under body wax attracts dust, grit and all and sundry road cack. All that muck holds moisture and defeats the object, or am I wrong and what you’ve done is the best thing. If anyone can provide a reasoned explanation I would appreciate it. Keep the videos coming.

If you buy a range rover, I have some magic beans for sale if you are interested?

Would 500 ml of the converter cover what’s required on the Range Rover or did you order the litre bottle ?? Is it just the converter and wax that’s needed ?

JLR should be ashamed the Range Rover is such a money pit

Throw the side steps away and buy some new aftermarket ones. That’s what I did and they’ll bolt straight on.

Please don’t work under the car without the stands.

I’ve just bought a new tank guard as most of the rust is on the inside. I’ve had it powdercoated before I fit it on.

I hope you see the message and I hope to get a reply
So my 3.0 SDV6 is on 191,000 miles
I have a new job which requires 80 -85 miles commute each day and I’ll be doing this 4 times a week, that means about 320miles per week

I am on this RR and when I asked the question
Should I allow n RangeRover do this much miles at the high mileage and I got loads of mixed reaction

Some say even at 191k miles its capable of doing 1000 miles a week
Some say a RR is a weekend car and should be used sparingly

I would honestly need ur advice