I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIND A VIDEO LIKE YOUR FOR ALMOST 2 MONTHS, THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE

Thanks mate. i bought the Bosch first gen motor it did over 10,000ks. 70km 4 times a week and never missed a beat. Then one day just about to start my journey to work grinding and locking up it died.. now going thru the warranty process, will post how that turns out.. i really hope these electric bicycle are not a ticking time bomb.

what is  the purpose of  the hall  sensor

My hubs were not at all sealed so rain got in and rusted the magnets locking up the wheel. Thanks to your great video I was able to take apart the wheel, clean and lubricate and most importantly seal the hubs so this doesn't happen in future. Excellent demonstration.

Thank you for the contribution to PEV repair.. also, at times you sound a little like Dan Aykroyd's character in Caddyshack.. a comedic bonus in my opinion😄.

Saw you were Canadian and doing ebike motors repairs and I subbed. About to build my first one and am going with a front hub.

Very nice many ebike user in phillippines depends in watching tutorials in utube  youve been a big help for them by showong video blogs

Giving the tool a few hits with a hammer helps to seat the tool before you turn it and I think the shock wave helps loosen it as well.

I think the best thing about this video is the problems you had along the way. Like the difficulty removing the hall sensor. Or even after completing the job it still didn't work until you found another issue. I have found a lot of repairs require never go as smooth as anticipated. Any bloopers for this video. I found the one with Sandy dropping in humorous. Ever think of a blooper reel?

yeah, for the time involved in a fet swap, depending on the controller's cost, and what your time is worth to you, it's sometimes just easier and quicker to get a new one.

Hey Ypedal,

Very enlightening video. I've been having issues involving an excessively hot controller since upgrading my motor. And through lengthy trouble shooting and diagnostics, I discovered that my controller is now running sensorless. Somehow the sensor circuit must've gotten fried.

To make it more frustrating, I think I have some defective hall wires in the new motor. Early on, when I started getting excessive heat in my controller (we're talking burnt fingers to the touch hot), I assumed my controller was under spec'd and I needed to upgrade to a 1200 Watt controller. (My current one is only 600) but after doing some tests with the new controller (which I haven't been able to get working on both my new motor and my old motor) I found that the halls of my new motor \ weren't responding to the new controller (I'm talking about the spin test where you see it alternate between the 0v and 5v as you slowly spin the wheel).

After watching your video here, I got an idea to determine if there' just a damaged wire between the mootor and the hall connector.

What was that continuity test you shoed at the end? What setting would I need to set my multimeter? And were you putting yellow hall to yellow phase, blue hall to blue phase and green hall to green phase?

HERE WE ARE YEARS LATER AND I WANT TO THANK YOU FOR THE EASY TO FOLLOW VIDEO!

Hi John,
I built up a DIY yuba mundo cargo bike with a used bmc V3 48 V hub , new CA 3 , lyen controller, 3 way switch , twist throttle.
I have quite a bit of experience and tools working on  bicycles, cars, and homes. Very limited experience working with electricity :) No experience on bikes.  

this is the note I sent to Edward.

Hi Edward,  Re : BMC V3 hub died mid ride
So making
sure I had a good ground this time ... I think that was why I was
getting no reading on main blue, now all read 11.88 main yellow, main
blue, main green... with throttle on or off, in any 1,2,or 3 switch
setting. Still reading 53.9 V from Battery to Controller

Moving to smaller Hall Sensor wires , while plugged in to power no throttle
first testing main power or red and black 4.29 DC V all from controller side of casing

black and blue rotating slowly backwards 5V  /.034 V/ 0V / 5.0 V
black and green                                     5V/.034 V / 0V / 5 V
black and yellow                                    4.81V / .034V / 0 V/ 4.81 V
Thanks    
Donny :)

note I sent to endless sphere

built this bike up from a frame last year and thought I finally had the bugs out.
BMC V3 Hub 48V 1000 W Used
Lyen Controller
twist throttle
3 speed switch

I
just pulled this bike out for the new season, it charged to 54V ( full
for my battery) and started up once I reconnected everything.
At the
end of last season I was just figuring out the CA but seemed to have it
running smooth and also with in the pedal speeds that suited the three
settings
1) set for starting and town, if I pedaled more then 10 mph the motor cuts out.
2) set for Bike Path 20 mph
3) 30 mph... I am late picking up kids.

I have quite a bit of experience building bikes , limited electrical experience, no ebike experience.

On the first ride into town the motor cut out mid ride
I checked my connections and they seem fine, also checked battery charge   fine

Their is no motor noise in any speed setting or any throttle position.

The hub moves fine by hand and still pedals fine

I have contacted Edward and he is a great help but need to learn more about how these entire systems work.
We are working on diagnosing the problem.

What I have checked

With My fluke I have 54 V to controller
While
plugged in I have 11.88 V DC coming off my main Blue, Yellow, and Green
larger Gauge wires running to the hub.  This does not change when I
change the 3 speed setting , this does not change when I have the
throttle full or off .

Testing the smaller wires running from
the hub to controller ( Hall sensor) ... All from the controller
side...... everything plugged in ....
I have 4.29 V from red to black
from black to blue  and turning the wheel slowly in reverse I read 5V to .034 V to 0 V  back to 5V
from black to green                                                          I read 5V  to .034 V to 0V back to 5V
from black to yellow                                 I read 4.81V   NOT 5V    then .034 V to 0 V then back to 4.81V  

Any tips?
Also
I would love to understand how electrical bike systems run from the
ground up, so I'll be better equipped to diagnose problems understanding
what electricity/voltage/watts/amps all mean and how they relate to the
system and how the systems components relate to each other.  Any
suggested readings????


after watching your video I did check for continuity from my phase wires to sensor wires and get nothing between any of them?
So not sure why I do get a voltage reading when rolling the hub backwards at each hall sensor wire even though only 4.81 at yellow vs 5 at the green and blue.

This is all foreign to me so excuse anything I have mentioned that makes no sense and please explain! Thanks !!

Appreciate your time


Donny

I did the same thing was about to rip it apart. It was the green ground  thank god I caught it.  People CHECK your connections before freaking out

Thanks a lot for taking the trouble to show me how to do that. I didn't realize the little cut out places where the hall sensors fit on the rotor. That makes it a lot easier doesn't it.

Very nice video hubmotor HAL sensor fitting and wairng diagram full details thanks 👍 sr

Thanks for this video dude. I've got 2 volimart 1000w hub motors that just seemed to give up the ghost for no good reason. At least now you've given me some idea as to what might be the problem.

Damn it.  I've been prying the plate with chisels until I could fit the gear puller underneath :(  Another great vid.

I m fm INDIA 🇮🇳 LOVE u sir thanks a lot to encourage me to do my
by cycle proper work
Me same problem as u face now i m going to check my wire first 😊

I feel that much more confident that I won't squish my fingers when I take apart my motor now.