Products used in this video can be found HERE: - https://amzn.to/3ZEVdsR

I worked at Altec-Lansing in OKC from the late 80's through the 90's before they closed the professional division. You may want to consider the 902 HF drivers with "Tangerine" phase plugs to extend the upper end from the 15k region you are saddled with. Bill Hanuschak, the speaker engineer from Altec in OKC is still doing business under the name of GreatPlains Audio in OKC. You can obtain drivers and speaker repairs from them. (including redesigned crossovers which will enhance greatly your enjoyment)

When our ship was in the west pacific,many clubs would have a pair of giant Altecs and they would fill an entire club with loud undistorted sound. Wonderful job!

Coming from someone about to flirt with their first speaker re veneer project I found your video incredibly helpful. Thank you for taking the time to explain your steps and share your experiences, especially the ones that maybe didn't go as well as one could hope. Best speaker refinish video I have come across recently, very nice work!

I have used coloured Danish oil here in the UK. even a little mixed in with the standard oil can help. They look great!

That’s one beautiful set of plant stands 😂

Love it when people save this great gear

I was lucky enough to own a pair of Altec-Lansing "Voice of The Theater" speakers, with the 311 horns. They were amazingly accurate, amazingly efficient and amazingly heavy. If you've never heard a speaker using horn technology, you've missed out. I also was lucky enough to own the SpeakerLab version of the Klipchhorn speakers. Those are horn low end, as well as high end. The government used a pair of Klipschhorns to simulate Earthquakes in a lab, as they could take 250 watts but were astonishingly efficient. They used the corner of the room as the last 6 feet of the bass horn and were amazing.

Great work and filming. (Part 1) I followed your similar work on the excellent restoration you completed on an original pair of KLH Model 5. I picked up a pair and with the printed circuit crossover. Your guidance on the pair you restored really helped and encouraged me to take on the project. They are sounding excellent and look great!

You make it better than factory! You should change it complete.

Nice Work .Very Detailed and vast improvement from the starting of the project.

I am amazed at how closely the new top veneer matches the sides.

On those small areas of possible raised areas, the way to find most of those is to use a very good metal flat edge to check before you do any sanding.  Run it over the surface in every direction with a light behind it, and look for light under the edge.  When laying the veneer, rather than scraping it with a flat piece of whatever, use a rolling pin.  It applies good, solid pressure, and you can apply much more and even pressure on the veneer.  Use it as soon as you have the first section laid down.  It gives a very good wide and even pressure vs your hand which is spotty and localized.  Then give it a very firm and consistent roll over the whole top.  Start by rolling the edge grain on both ends with the roller inline with the grain, then roll in the direction of the grain, starting at the edge on one end and without stopping, roll to the other end as the final step in gluing it down.  The rolling pin will also allow you to get very good down pressure on the edges to help with the roll-up problem.  It also helps with the raised grain problem because it compresses instead of scrapes the top of the wood.

One last thing, and this is VERY IMPORTANT.  Do NOT use isopropyl alcohol to remove the wood dust.  You talked about how dry the newly-laid wood veneer was.  That's probably because the alcohol stripped away some of the natural oils of the wood.  They make a product called "tack cloth" that is designed to remove your sawdust residue.  Do NOT wet the surface with ANYTHING after you sand it.  Use tack cloths instead.

Overall, the before to after is very good.  My comments are to help you do an even better job.

Great work, Ben! A tip for the veneer glueing process, I've found that the spray on adhesive doesn't hold as strong as a brush on contact cement or using multiple coats of titebond and an iron to cement the layers together. I'm looking forward to seeing part 2! These cabinets turned out great!

Very cool! I can't wait for the next video

Can’t wait to see what u do with xo!

Great work! Looking forward to part 2. Thanks 🙏

If you have areas where the grain has lifted due to water damage - but the glue hasn't failed on the veneer causing bumps or lifted edges - it is generally better to take down the lifted grain with a cabinet scraper.  It shears the lifted grain off rather than sanding, which tends to make lifted grain fuzzy rather than leaving it flat.
It's generally better to  use a dedicated steam machine to lift areas of dented veneer.
If you want to flatten an area, use float glass or plate glass as a replacement for the butcher block  used in combination with the weights.  Float glass has a very flat surface, it is sometimes used as a stand in for machined flat surfaces (like in a machine shop).
If you have water rings on a veneer that can't be replaced, you might be able to use a sufficiently dark or grey aniline dye to dye the wood to a uniform color.  You do need to be careful with this method, it takes practice to do it well without making it too dark.
Steel wool is a common way applying dyes and oils, but use new pieces of steel wool and change them out well before they start to self destruct.  Steel wool starts shedding particles if used for too long, which causes little spots of rust to form on the finish after a few days.  It is generally better to use brass wool, which doesn't rust if it sheds particles.  You can get it at boat supply stores or online.

Stunning!

Excellent work Ben. Can’t wait to see the finished product of these beauties.