Great video! Really enjoyed seeing your process to diagnose the issue, including the false starts, as well as your explanation of why these amps typically do not get repaired. I do some repair work on electronic instruments as well, and have scared off my share of customers with estimates when the estimate is close to, or bigger, than the cost of replacing the instrument.
I own a similar Frontman with an intermittent hum. Now I'm thinking i might have fun tracking down the cause and fixing it.
I always learn something from your videos. Looking forward to your next upload!
Good to see less things going in the bin. Those amps sound ok into a good speaker. They are also great to get started messing with amps, cheap and safer to trace signals, get your head around basics of audio amps. All the best for 2026 ❤
This amplifier got lucky despite the fair evaluation. I imagine several items get fixed, beyond their worth, because of "sentimental value". Guilty of that here, but hey, it's my own work hours I'm burning. I'd also point out who it was that bodged in that socket, but I'm not going to name names.
I thought initially, it sounded like a bad ground or a 'dodgy' connection. It had more of that non earth/ground sound than a signal sound. While not worth fixing, it's still better up and running than an immediate throw into land fill.
Although the foil traces on Fender amps are notoriously fragile, pushing the Chem-wick braid hard into the foil pad and component lead, as you said you were doing, is a great way to debond the pad and foil from the board, especially on a device made with leadfree solder, which has a higher melting point than leaded solder. Add a little leaded solder to the connections first, as this will lower the melting point of the connection; then add flux and use the desoldering braid. If you poke a hole in the braid with an awl or jewelers screwdriver, you can sit the braid directly on and over the pin or component lead, instead of applying pressure and heat from one side of the connection.