As long as it doesnโt seize, the plug doesnโt foul out and runs to get the job done, itโs fine. These are simple dirty 2 stroke engines and that is all they will ever be no matter what anal perspective you try to apply to itโs operation.
I appreciate all your information on using different 2-stroke oils. I primarily cut firewood for our winter heating and had been using Husqvarna oil that went along with additional warranty coverage on a 550 XP MK II and a 562 XPG (the transitional version prior to the MK II). After purchasing a Stihl MS 400C, and listening to your video I have totally switched to the Honda HP2 @40:1. I keep my saws clean and the chains sharp. These saws are too expensive, in my opinion, to not protect them as best I can. Thanks for helping educate me to that degree!
I appreciate the looks inside the saws. As someone who purchases and runs them professionally then subsequently fixes them, it is nice to see the insides before I buy. Thanks ๐
Ive switched to Echo Red Armour recently. Burns clean, less coking in the exhaust port. Acquired a newly ported saw, 7310, sticker on it, stating, 40:1 mix. Has been an improvement for me, without a doubt. It definitely improves the cleanliness of older saws using inferior oil.๐
You unwittingly made my day Richard. I have a limited edition 362 that I can longer obtain oem parts for in New Zealand. Now I can add 400 parts to my search if they are as interchangeable as you say they are.
I got a quote from my Stihl dealer for a new coil and leads. $280 plus 15% gst tax plus the shops markup. That coil costs 12.5% of the saws purchase value. A coil that is 12.5% of the total purchase price of the saw is just plain ridiculous...
Really liking Red Armor after switching to it recently. I was using Stihl Ultra @ 50:1 for years in all my 2 stroke equipment but the carbon buildup was terrible leading to hard starts and lackluster performance. I've run a couple tanks of Red Armor through a Stihl saw and Echo trimmer so far and both of them are starting easier and have better throttle response already.
You might want to discuss the differences between Paraffins & Esters relative to two stroke oils. Makes more difference than the mix. (Base stocks) I'm not a fan of paraffin anything in those oils. Many "Synthetic Blends" have paraffin mixed in.
Before your videos i used stihl and husky oils ( stihl hp ultra , husky xp ) , but now i use bike oils ( motul 710 , or motorex crosspower 2t) they are cheaper and better , very nice video keep up the good work
I think I can conclude this is a trend or pattern that I have observed. In how my saw tools have behaved this winter. I did not expect to find this, but I did. My Auto Tune five series Husky's are working better with change of weather with more gasoline, less oil (fifty to one 'ish' mixes). For the warmer, milder parts of year I operate all tools, older and newer from the same forty to one container, which all tools seem to want. Including my new 550 XP and 585 saw. What's strange about the latter as they got into winter working they favor 50 to 1. So I assumed that my three series 372 tools would exhibit a similar preference, yet I discovered straight away the 372 said no. Mix me a dedicated 40 to 1 container, which I did. And the 372, 365 tools all went back to liking their fuel again. So it seems that winter weather and winter climate affects modern auto tune saws much more than older designs? Does that make any sense? I'll figure out in 2025 when the weather improves if all these tools converge back upon the same fuel preference again, but as of December, it seems clear to me that auto tune wants more gasoline in bad weather, the three series tools don't care to the same extent. They just want consistent fuel mix all year around. Am I imagining that, or does it make any sense. It was my little 'four series' tools that drew my attention to it, the 435 tools started to run better on 50 to 1, . . and when I sensed that change in operation on the smaller tools, I noticed a similar preference in the large five series 'pro' auto tune models too. Summer time I run everything on 40 to 1, and it's been working out for me. I've tried all the Husqvarna full synthetic and semi- synthetic products. Haven't yet expanded out beyond that in terms of oil use (however, I source gasoline supply from a long haul fleet fuel supply station at a port, and their gasoline has worked well in my saws). My automobile garage pump stuff, definitely operates different in winter, so I went back again to using the gasoline the professional van drivers use at the dockside.
Hey brother, thanks for taking the time to make these videos ๐น. Im learing a lot! ๐๐๐ I'm from the motorized bicycle hobby and love watching you chainsaw guys! I do not understand why people get so bent about oil testing ๐ข. There is a lot your showing us. Thanks ๐ ๐ ๐๐
Stihl HP oil is mineral 2 strok oil,price is 1 L around 19 USD,FB class oil. And also we have a HP Super(green)sint/mineral FD class . Most people here in Croatia using that oil for grass trimmers.I dont know is it burning clean but l think iit gives solid lubrication . Thank you lot for your oil advice a showing as how some of oil does. I think that for clean brning gas is not just oil of corse it is,but also air filters and spark plugs and right working coil that from am talking only what l see i past some engine how look like pistons and cylinders. Anyway thank you lot and wish you all best. I switch to Saber(great oil) Viscosity is very high level. Greetings from very worm Croata/EU.
One thing that also makes a difference with coming is some guys will leave a saw idling for 5-10 minutes when they should shut it off. They build up badly just idlingโฆ
The red stihl oil from the stihl Italy site it's classificated Jaso Fb full mineral. On some group they say it's nice. Hope this information are usefull. Keep up the great work. Best regards Giovanni