Bought a 501cm and appreciate the video. It’s probably hard to upload with so many people commenting with such negativity but you should still keep it up. These types of videos are super valuable to those learning!

one more tip, for longer exposures (1"-1/15) there is an orange line on the ring, this indicates you have to HOLD the shutter button until it clicks shut, as a baffle system is behind the mirror (light safety, to stop film fogging when lens changing), this operates at ~1/15th second, so there is a possibility of this cutting the shutter speed short, so the line is there to remind you to HOLD until the shutter has done the exposure.

Very helpful and well presented video. Thank you.

thank you for this video clear explanation!

If you ever update this video, be sure to mention the mirror lock-up feature.

one further tip, the A in A-12 means something, its Automatic film advance, not the auto winder, like modern 'point and shoot' 135 cameras! What this is, is a film length based auto wind ON, in a type i back, aka just a '12' on the livery (leather and paint), its a red window advance, flip up the asa reminder disk on the rear to expose the red window, set the frame, close and shoot. The A-12/16/32 is the 6x6/6x4.5{120/220} backs which stop at each frame by distance, ie an Automatic stop, you can use them EMPTY on a body for testing!
One tip, use the small 'crank' for wind_on and wind off ONLY, the auto lock at frame 1 is just that, for Starting, it 'freewheels' after that!, so... use the BODY crank, and YES, a 'CW' does accept a winder, but... it auto winds after the shot, so if you want to 'M-up', double expose, etc. take the drive OFF before you hit the shutter!! An 'E' on the back is an electronic asa dial \ contrast control for the 200/203Fe and 205Fcc as these are spot metering and curtain shuttered bodies, this mag saves setting asa on the body, just a dial set.

Great video Joel <3

great tutorial, but one important thing, the LENS being a leaf shutter has the springs in the lens, so ALL removal operations from this end must start with the lens, and end with it, SINGLY not in combination with ext. tubes, bellows, etc. as this can jam the works, ONE at a time, LENS FIRST.
Also, for shutter winding, if unsure, wind with the back OFF, as any motion of the winder cocks the shutter AND winds film, so if the camera isn't cocked when the mag goes on, TAKE it OFF first (saves wasting a frame!)-some models have a button under the crank handle (203 and 205FCC come to mind-focal plane bodies), with these, taking the back off becomes unnecessary, as this button de-clutches the film winder gears, so only the shutter cocking occurs in that cycle.

Do not forget to mention the Fantastic sound of the slamming mirrror you Will never forget

After chosen the ISO depending of the film, the first thing to do after measured the light is to set the EV value on the lens, BEFORE the apperture and the time.

thanks for this. i needed this insight and quick!

Does anyone know how the ttl works? Im using profoto b10plus and Im debating on getting one of these and want to make sure I get everything I need and know what to expect from it. Thanks

What model prism finder ?

you want a light meter? buy a digital camera. loading film cumbersome? lol, not! easy as it gets.

You mentioned the arrow on the new film should line up with the red arrow on the insert. But you loaded yours with the arrows way off. Details details.

Beautiful camera though. Proud owner of one myself.

Hi Joel, can you please help me, I took a picture wit my hasselblad, but the aperture got stuck, I can’t advance the film. I’m new wit analog cameras

"The lack of lightmeter" NOOB, of course you should use a handheld lightmeter, it is the most reliable way anytime ! Film loading !? no problem what so ever, a real pro can do that in few seconds even in total darknes !