Solid call on the tool and lugs - really good video, thanks for taking the time!

Dude you just saved me. Got a 22 yr old ford pickup with origonal rotors it looks like that wont come off... thanks going to harbir freight now

I used the bolt method last weekend on my wife's minivan. It spent almost it's entire life in Minnesota winters and were really rusted on. Heat, freeze-off and whacking with a hammer did nothing . I have to replace the rotors on my 2001 Firebird next month and will keep this in mind if the bolt method doesn't work. Great idea and thanks for sharing the video!

I once backed off all the lug nuts on my brother-in-laws Geo Metro and drove tight alternating donut like circles in my driveway for 20 minutes before the first wheel broke free. Sometimes when they are stuck they are truly STUCK. That is when I started using anti seize on axle and rotor faces.

Just did this with my GMT800. Wiped out the threads on the cheap 8 in threaded puller, but this thing took it off in about 3 pumps. Thanks for the video

Did the same thing for a rear rotor on a mustang. After being there for 16 years in New England, it wasn't budging, no matter how much I soaked it. The 10 ton puller from HF shot that thing about 3 feet across the shop. Wasn't going to come off any other way for sure.

What worked for me, put two lug nuts on loose. Start it up, run it up to about 60mph and slam on the breaks, repeat until the rotor is loose.  Took about 6 times before both of mine were loose.

If you loosen the brake shoes the also helps to release the rotor also. Good tip on this also with the puller.

Had a 55 Chevrolet stuck rear drums when it broke a loose it sound like a shotgun going off been stuck for years it worked great

I've used this method a few times,  one time it broke 1/3rd of the brake disc clean off.

Too bad they don’t make these big enough for my car’s rotors.

would of helped if showed getting it on that is the only problem im havibg snd no one is showing that

Very lucky that the weak, chinesium links that attach the jaws to the hub of the puller didn't fail. I bit of fool's advice, have those remade of high strength steel, and use grade 8 bolts and nuts hardware.

Use anti seize on the axle face and around the pilot hub and you'll never have this problem again. And the wheel will never freeze onto the pilot hub either so no more kicking the tire or sledgehammering the tire to get it off. The standard silver works as does copper kote spray. And you won't get the corrosion build up to the axle face and back of rotor. And I've never had the anti seize migrate to the braking surfaces. I've been doing it for 20 years in the Pennsylvania salt belt with 100% success.

Dam busting out the claws is when you know you’re fucked, need a 6 pack, and a lot of swearing.

Been there…. SMACKING with sledge hammers, air hammers, pry bars, everything.

When all else fails the torch and claws come out.

Instead of using the 10 ton hydraulic puller, which is $100, I was able to pull a small car brake drum with the $20 Harbor Freight 3-arm puller.  Yes, it took 4 hands to hold it on and tighten it down, but it worked like a charm.  It was a 2006 Ford Focus passenger side rear drum. It was this one: PITTSBURGH 8 in., 3-Jaw Gear Puller, $22.99 Item 63952. Should work fine on small car disc rotors also, for FOUR-LUG wheels, maybe five-lug wheels if you're lucky. Bigger rotors like 8-lug ones for the truck in the video--"You're gonna need a bigger boat--er, puller" (with apologies to Jaws movie fans)

That rotor is probably bent now

TWO THINGS....YOU NEED TO BACK OFF THE EMERGENCY BRAKE SHOES...THEN HIT IT LIKE A MAN..
NO NEED TO BUY MOST TOOLS, AUTO PARTS STORE RENT TOOLS FOR FREE....