The quickest way to set endfloat is to fit the bearing and flywheel and paper gasket if required and tighten it with the gland nut , measure with 2 sets  of feeler gauges,  subtract 4 thou finished,  always works and i install the shims and rear seal when assembling the case halves

Great to see all fingers back in action doin the business

Awesome series Taylor. God Bless

Good video, I’ve watched others and you explained these systems much better

Great series idea!

Interesting as always. Love the tattoo 😂

The dots on the oil pump gears is for lubrication

The thing with the flywheel is real talk guys!

Thanks for the education

Back in the 90s I would wear an air cooled 1500 1600s out at the trust bearings on just a 2 hour drive at 60 65 mph you could push the pulley and crank forward and back almost a half inch poring oil I didn't know what I know now in automotive back then you could buy some one a 12 pack of beer they give you a long block now prices like with everything up way up the what used to be a restorable car for the average Joe is crazy expensive

Good details 🤙

just a friendly reminder to wipe the seal or flywheel with oil so it doesn't burn the seal at first start

How much deck height does the engine have?  CB performance, has a engine calculator compression ratio link, in case you didn't know.

I had a question, Did you have any issue with Installing Oil Pump w/filter Interferes with stock muffler and tailpipes?

My car is a 1969 Type 1 Standard (single relief). I am rebuilding it stock. But, I want to add dual port heads, doghouse oil cooler, oil cooler shroud, and 87 mm pistons. What non-spinon oil pump do I add to give the best oil circulation for my engine? I am building stock, so just want a slip in place better pump. I am adding electronic ignition, but other than what it is listed it will be stock.

What would actually happen if you used more than 3 shims? I can’t think of anything? You would still get the lubrication between them all surly .