Fantastic Stuart! Viewers, don’t try to drill the “through” holes for the handle with just one pass with a long drill bit. The chances that the far side hole will end up in the exact right spot are slim. Mark both sides carefully and do the holes one side at a time, testing after each hole.

Never seen anyone fit the hinges on the same side as the lock and handles before 😄
Great video Stuart! Some handy tips and tricks, awesome!

What no one told me was how much better the acoustics were in each room when you change hollow doors to solid ones. Noise doesn’t escape or enter the room so easily

When you had traditional  wooden doors you generally  had a 9" bottom rail , so the bottom hinge was kept above that , or you had the end grain of the Tennons !

I use painters tape on the doors when marking out lines so after drilling it can just be peeled off without leaving pencil marks or embossed lines.

Nice video Stuart.

There is a solution when you trim the door to far. You can take some of the cardboard out or push in. Then glue a wooden bar in. A bit work but it works.

Excellent. Your videos are like having a big DIY book in video form. You do realise, Stuart, you're becoming the Barry Bucknell of UK YouTube. Ha ha.

A few "tradesmen" could do with watching this. (I'm looking at you Bovis!).
I like the idea of those through bolt jobs, I'm forever sticking matchsticks in my doors to give the little screws some bite as they are forever going loose!

Not sure why I watched this, as a carpenter, but still enjoyed it all the same

Love that oval drilling technique, definitely using that next

Best D.I.Y channel on YouTube....keep up the good work!!!

4:49 the old standard of 6 and 9 inches for the hinge locations in the door was to avoid the tenons on a traditional door as to avoid putting screws into and chiseling into end grain.

Quite a few hollow doors I've fitted have a larger wooden block inside where the handle/lock will go. You can screw the handle directly into that if you have one. It's only on one side of the door though (and usually indicated with an arrow on the top of the door) so it's worth checking before you start fitting either latch or hinges.

Handy tip for the latch hole drilling 😀

Your demonstration of all the work necessary was very useful in assuring me that I make the right decision to employ a professional carpenter/joiner to do such skilled tasks!

I'm glad that I found this channel

I had to chuckle. Our house was struck by a cyclone many years ago. The top part of the house was lifted up and skewed slightly. The house itself is not completely square, including the door frames (metal). Despite this, the house itself has been brought up to code and is completely livable. It reains however, an oddity, but we love it

My favorite part is having the handle on the same edge as the hinge

Good explanation of what can be a tricky job, Stuart. Pro chippie here, a few tips worth mentioning:

-If you have to cut down the height, do it from the bottom otherwise the top rail will look out of proportion. You only ever need to plane the top if the frame header is off level. If you have to go more than 25mm, plane the hardboard face off the wooden bar you've cut from the rail, then glue and clamp the bar back into the hollow gap.
-Hollow doors have "lock-block" of wood fitted in the core on one side, at handle height, which you can use to set your furniture. This will be indicated by the word "lock" on the top of the door. Put a bit of tape on the door at handle height, to remind you when you're fitting it.
-Normal screws are fine in the lock-block for long backplate handles, but always use through-bolts for round-rose handles.
-Couple of other ways to do the latch hole. One is to use a 22mm bit and square the top and bottom of the hole with a chisel. Easy with hollow core and engineered doors, a bit more work with solid doors.  You can get away with a 25mm bit, but it's worth drilling a test hole on some scrap wood to check if the hole peeks out the sides. I find using a sharp forstner bit on the door edge first, with a pilot point to start, prevents any chip out or wandering. Once you've gone through the edge, you can blast it with a flat bit or auger bit. My only issue with drilling two holes is there's less wood to fix the latch faceplate, but whatever works, works!

Love the channel - every day's a school day! Cheers

The chain drilling technique is great!